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Mike C

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Posts posted by Mike C

  1. 1 hour ago, john.r.davies said:

    As far as I can see, the coils just put the pump casing  heat back into the fuel, exacerbating any fuel vapourization problem.

  2. 1 hour ago, TR NIALL said:

    The longer loop looks more pleasing to the eye,the sharp right angle on the wire looks like it could be problematic in the long term.

    Yep,bending copper wire causes it to work harden and break. I have had my share of it with wire feeds into doors and I just try to minimize bending  whenever possible.

  3. 4 hours ago, harlequin said:

    Thank you Charlie for posting the link.

    I hope I am not straying to far off subject but I have a question.

    A CP engine will only draw about 12" of vacuum when in good condition, is this due to the cam or is it the injection system that is the cause of the low reading?

    George 

     

    Mine's 10" Hg,head  modified a bit and fitted with a TR5 cam. I've always thought it was a  cam  characteristic made  possible with the PI system.

    My thoughts are the PI system will let the engine idle with less vacuum  than carbs leading to more air/power at the lower end of the RPM range. But it may simply be that Lucas couldn't make a MU that would work over a wider vacuum range back in the day.

  4. 2 hours ago, charlie74 said:

    I’d be happy to when able. I have a NA model with carburetors so my connections wont be the same as a PI model but i can definitely still do so…

    Thanks. My PI inlet manifold will be working  with lower vacuum levels than yours but that's only a matter of finding a suitable gauge.

    For checking the vacuum in the garage I use the brake booster hose but I'm sure I can find another  existing point  or tap in a nipple if needed.

  5. 5 hours ago, charlie74 said:

    I sacrificed the (useless IMHO) eyeball vent between the steering column and door and installed a NOS Smiths vacuum gauge in it’s location.  It looks like it belongs and works quite well.  I don’t have a picture unfortunately, sorry…and won’t for a couple of weeks due to work.

    That's a good idea. I never drive the car with the top up so I've also disconnected my eyeball vents. Can you post a photo when you get a chance. I'm interested on what gauge face you've selected for the PI system and where you took the vacuum tapping from .

  6. 3 hours ago, Jules TR6 said:

    ...that's sounds serious.

    I haven't got a compression tester, but am hearing a slight chuffing from the front of the engine - which maybe just the fan-belt / alternator / coolant pump, ...or the head gasket? If it's the head gasket I suppose it would also explain the reluctance to start - lack of compression (or it's the plugs).

    Maybe instead of trying new plugs, I should just get it straight into a garage ...possibly even picked-up, as if it might the head gasket I'm very relucent to try an drive it.

    Could installing electronic ignition have caused this?

    A blown head gasket will generally produce bubbles in the coolant when you blip the throttle or sometimes water/steam in the exhaust.

    I'd look at the plug leads,distributor rotor button/cap and throttle linkages for starters  .

    I'd also be reluctant to drive the vehicle on public roads while it's running in that condition.

     

  7. 8 hours ago, RobH said:

    Not only due to over-advanced ignition.  Pinking is due to the fuel mixture burning very rapidly in an uncontrolled way - basically a small explosion. It is supposed to burn progressively so that a 'flame front' progresses across the ignition chamber from the plug.  Pinking can happen even with correct spark timing due to excess compression or fuel with too low an octane rating.  The ping is caused by the shock-wave from the 'explosion'. 

    Rather than causing sooting, pinking can be caused by it because the carbon can get hot and glow, causing the mixture to ignite prematurely instead of by the spark.  That's one reason why in the old days of low octane fuel, engines had to be decarbonised regularly. 

    I agree with you, every engine/fuel/load combination is different, the idea is to get as much power out of controlled combustion without uncontrolled detonation of the air /fuel mix.

  8. I've  used jubilee clips on the HP side of the PI system for decades, but I use them in pairs with the heads staggered 180 degrees apart. I also use Gates Barricade hose exclusively.

    Are you sure the bolt on the top banjo connection is tight?

  9. Yep, the vacuum  is a good indicator. I use a vacuum gauge on the brake servo connection and I must have 10 inches of mercury at idle for the  MU to deliver the right mixture.

    To set the timing I start at 11 deg BTDC at idle, my distributor is the normal CP model without vacuum advance, then I he creep the advance forward until I get slight pinking at WOT high load, at which time I back the distributor back a tad.

    The more you can advance the distributor without pinking  the more power you will get

  10. I had all kinds of sooty plug problems due to an out of calibration PI . The car was horrible to start and drive. Anyway I had the PI system rebuilt and re-calibrated then switched to NGK BUR 6ET plugs 5 years ago- it totally transformed the car.

    The car is now reliable, starts easily and has plenty of power.

    And the NGK BUR series of  three  electrode plugs do not need the gap to be checked and  reset

     

  11. Yep, PI= petrol injected . Your filter filter should be ok as your car will only have a low pressure lift pump. If you buy new hoses make sure they are suitable for modern fuel blends- this could be the root cause of your problem.

    I use Gates Barricade .

  12. The silver canister is a fuel filter. Do you have a PI car? If so that filter is  working at a very high pressure and I'd relocate it to the suction side of the fuel pump.

    You can replace all the rubber hoses and filters, except for hoses immediately connected to the tank by clamping the hoses adjacent to the tank with pinch clamps.

     

  13. 1 hour ago, Richiep said:

    Hi All,

    Just a quick follow up message to say thanks for your replies and recommendations! :-)

    I’m now in the process of rechecking the electrics.. as the overdrive worked a couple of times last week.. I’m suspecting a poor ‘new’ column switch, even though it was replaced only a few years ago!!

    Richard

    Almost all TR O/D problems are electrical. That's why I fitted mine with a pilot light that confirms the electrical signal to the solenoid. That light's paid for itself over and over.

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