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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Thanks Bruce. I'm glad that you have found a suitable alternative Lucas specialist for me. The repair costs and turnaround are very good. If I need to get my MU fully overhauled I would send them the original and its fuelling curve and ask them to restore it to that curve and retest it before shipping back- even if the retest costs extra.
  2. "I had my suspicions that the horn sounding was due to the Moto Lita steering wheel boss shorting out on the slip ring"- I had to skim mine , the boss was too deep. Don't overdo it or the boss might split when the clamping nut is tightened up. I've read of other people with the same problem, so presumable a batch was made 30 odd years ago with excessively deep bosses.
  3. Maybe test the injector line fitted to the MU but not fitted to the injector. If there's nothing on the end I can't see how you would get a negative pressure in the line at the kind of flows we're looking at.
  4. Thanks Bruce. With the local Lucas TR expert gone I'll need the name of another competent repair shop. A TR6 with a malfunctioning PI system is not worth owning .
  5. Hi Bruce, You were obviously happy with their service- the work was completed on time? One of my fears is sending my MU off somewhere to be refurbished and it just disappears for months with no response from the repairer. I have noticed past concerns on the forum about this happening with some UK specialist Lucas repair shops.
  6. Thanks Bruce. KMI were on my list before I found Bowerpower in Australia. If Peter Bower has exited the TR6 market I'll be looking at them. Looking at their website I'd accept they're pretty good technically, do you have any experience with how they perform in terms of time?
  7. As I see it the injection system is under a reasonable pressure from the pump to the injector, unless some component goes under negative pressure due to a fault , air can't get in. If the car's in a position to run, try a high load run to try and clear out any residual trapped air . Do you fit your nylon injector lines cold? It's harder but Lucas have recommended it over the years for their PI TR and saloon engines. I'd contact David Clarke to see if you can get a Viton diaphragm. Last one I got from the brothers was definitely nitrile. It swelled up with our fuel and leaked arou
  8. Thanks for the info Peter. I now source Viton o-rings from an industrial bearing supplier in Australia- I use CBC (who I believe are Saeco Wilson in NZ). The diaphragms are more of a concern, the major TR suppliers don't seem to be able to differentiate between nitrile and Viton, and on our fuel the life of many nitrile components is measured in single digit hours. I understand David Clark supplied parts to Bowerpower, so hopefully I have those components covered. Now I just need to find someone with a Lucas test & calibration rig-and that knows how to use it.
  9. Thanks John. I've had o rings and diaphragms, supposedly of Viton, airfreighted to me from overseas at great cost in the past and they've lasted less than an hour on Australian high octane unleaded. One of the things I liked about Peter was that he had his own components made of quality material. I hope he keeps working on TR's but I've added David to my suppliers list-thanks.
  10. ""BTW I have had a message from Bowerpower overnight to the effect that they are no longer working with Lucas PI units"- for me that is bad news, I had a lot of trouble getting my PI equipment serviced in Australia before I came across Peter Bower. And a TR6 with a malfunctioning PI system is a dog of a car, far worse that an out of tune carburetted car. I'm interested in the recommendations you receive for current UK Lucas specialists.
  11. I've always followed the Brown Book, which shows acceptable sleeve port sector openings at the top (towards the block). Even the sleeve port almost covering the rotor port is OK as long as the opening sector is at the top. With regard to No.2 not bleeding, you obviously would have checked the injector line is not blocked? Maybe remove the line and blow CA in the direction of flow in case somethings wedging closed with the fuel flow.
  12. Most of my injector problems have been with 2 and 5, maybe it's because 2 and 5 have check valves built into the banjo bolts that leak or break up? I prime my injectors by holding them with the line grading up ,spark plugs out , "choke" full , on then bleed each of them into a jar until I see a good spray pattern- you might need to pull the tips with your fingernails to get this. I have a suspicion that if any air is left in an injector line the fuel from the MU pulses against the air without actually clearing it from the line.
  13. "I was thinking of a test drive with the gear box exposed next to see if I can see any other movement in the mechanism."- I did this when I had problems jumping out of 2nd. I wanted to check that I wasn't getting interference at the ball on the base of the selector lever. Things wobble around a bit with no H frame but it's worth it to get a good look.
  14. Steve and Keith. I'd have cleaned and checked all relevant earths as a first step towards solving both your problems although Steve's wobbly rotor in the starter motor probably means it's on the way out. Like Keith , I have a huge direct feed via a relay to the Bosch pump in the boot, but it still needs a good earth point. I had considered running 2 wires from to the battery to the pump, like the battery in the boot idea, but it wasn't needed.
  15. Welcome to the forum. Vitessesteve has the manuals John is talking about here: http://vitessesteve.co.uk/LucasStuff/Lucas_Petrol_Injection_Manuals.htm If you haven't already got copies.
  16. Have you checked your idle vacuum by say connecting a vacuum gauge to the brake booster connection? Mine has been at 10 inches Hg since the engine was built up in the mid 1990's. Peter Bower needed the vacuum figure and the fact that my engine displacement is 2.7L to recalibrate my MU.
  17. If you hold the HT lead from no 4 about 5mm from the block at idle does it spark? If there's no spark then there's no problem with the valves or compression.
  18. " For reasons unknown sometimes its noisy as hell, sometimes silent"- if it's only noisy with a low fuel level in the tank it's probably a pump suction problem.
  19. jr2's posted credible responses in the past. I don't know who would want 10 LHD chassis with bodies in various states of repair these days.
  20. Peter Bower in Sydney rebuilt my MU and injectors about 3 years ago. They were tested and calibrated on his bench test equipment before they were returned . I just reinstalled the MU & injectors , bled the injector lines and did a final tighten of the keeper plates. The engines run perfectly ever since. Amongst Peter's test reports was one detailing my MU's fuelling rate vs manifold vacuum so I would imagine his vacuum test rig would have picked up leaks like caused your problem- I suspect your leak was masked by the cold enrichment lever.
  21. There's a fair chance the coil couldn't fire the plugs properly, causing missing and associated plug fouling. Hopefully you've solved your plug fouling problem.
  22. Was the engine missing when the plugs fouled?
  23. Mike C

    Sparkplug gap

    I use iridium tipped plugs in an old Holden V8 gapped as is in the box. In this V8 the back plugs near the firewall are a pain to change. It's too risky trying to regap the fine electrodes. I don't use these plugs in the TR6 as I'm happy with the anti fouling properties of my NGK BUR6ET's.
  24. I wouldn't class an unleaded head upgrade as an absolute requirement. 20 years ago the demise of unleaded was the upcoming monster about to be unleashed on the classic community. The threat never eventuated. I've got by by for a few decades adding a dash of lead additive at each fill.
  25. The alternator not charging could be a connection in the charging system that's opening up when it gets warm- but if you have over 12 V at the battery the engine should still run.
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