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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. I'm pretty sure if you back the flow off the pressure it supplies will increase. I need 680 kPag for my system to work from the Bosch and a Carter primer pump. And my system works at a lower pressure than most. What pressure is your PRV set at? You have to get at least that pressure.
  2. 4 bar is not enough, but maybe you're looking at the wrong point on the pump curve. To match the Lucas original pump you need something like 7 bar at 72 litres/hour.
  3. You don't need the safety hook unless you have to brake hard . If the bonnet's floating free it will fly up as you slow down as, aerodynamic forces drop and it pivots over its hinges. Then you have the collision - it's hard to see past the bonnet when it's up as far as it's holding strut will allow it to go.
  4. I found a second hand original catch in the US recently. Once postage to Australia was included the price was about the same as a new reproduction unit. Personally, I'll never buy repro parts if I can get an original.
  5. Before I had my PI system rebuilt I used to have all kinds of airlock problems with no 2 and no 5 injectors, especially no 5. I suspect that the NRV's on the MU banjo connectors were leaking, allowing the injector lines to drain down when the engine was shut down for a while.
  6. I use Penrite HPR30 Full Zinc, holds oil pressure on 40 degree days: https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-30-20w-60-mineral Many years ago, I had problems with the detergents in heavy duty diesel oil ( as used in Caterpillars, Detroit Diesels etc. ) opening up unwanted engine oil leaks.
  7. Could be liquid petrol lying in the inlet manifold boiling off when the butterflies are closed.
  8. Prevent jamming as the parts heat up and expand ?
  9. My hoses are long gone and I've pointed the nozzles to the right (in the direction of the mudguard)- to pick up the cold air away from the engine and radiator.
  10. Mike C


    Is the 7th plug in the inlet manifold ? Looked to be part of the water pump. I'm not a carb expert but maybe the vacuum line could be connected to the brake booster inlet manifold connection.
  11. Mike C


    Once you set it by ear you need to fine tune it by loading the engine. I have a long hill climb near here I use for tuning purposes.
  12. Mike C


    You generally get more power as you advance the timing, up to a point. From memory -the hot combustion gas starts burning earlier and as it expands spends more of the stroke pushing the piston down . If you keep advancing the timing you will reach a point at which the gas mixture just explodes on top of the piston before the piston starts to move down. This explosion is caused knocking or pinging because of the noise it causes. Pinging is very deleterious to engine components as, instead of a gradual force after combustion is initiated there is a sharp pressure rise causing the knocking sou
  13. Mike C


    Many people start with 11 degrees before TDC then creep the timing forward until they just get light pinging at low RPM's , WOT.
  14. Mine's the same as John's. I also have a Moto-Lita wheel . There should be an insulator in the wheel for the pencil. I use a touch of graphite grease on the brass rubbing surfaces- it's important the grease conducts- dielectric grease defeats the purpose .
  15. For me , it would be a good job for winter, when all the odds and ends associated with the diff being out can be done at leisure.
  16. If the indicator selector on the steering column had a left switching problem you would have no light on the left indicators at all. Go straight to checking the rear light earths. Are you sure all the left indicator bulbs are the correct wattage?
  17. Mike C

    Radiator Cowl.

    Brace the grille against vibration & associated metal fatigue?
  18. All original Triumph parts are generally better than aftermarket. But it's not critical as long as the replacement is a quality copper job.
  19. You have a copper radiator that looks original Triumph. I wouldn't replace it until I could source another with the correct nozzles in copper and preferably a recored original.
  20. Ok- there is no angle- "Its flat on the backplate and the SC seems parallel to the chassis not up or down left or right, at least as far as I can tell lying on my back underneath, lol."- that's the correct mounting.
  21. The SC assembly is in the right order but is the backplate mounted at an angle to the engine backplate? Maybe it's just my interpretation of the photo. I can't help you with the measurements as I'm a long way from my car at the moment.
  22. It's pretty normal for a car that's only used occasionally and shut down with the often engine still cold. I'd also check the choke lever on the side of the MU is releasing when the knob is pushed in- especially if the fuel consumption is high. You may consider drilling 3mm holes in the low points of each muffler- I've always done that to prevent condensation build up after short runs.
  23. Does it get worse or disappear under 2000 RPM. Detonation pinging will get worse .
  24. Oil pressure/bearings OK? Engine mounts tight? No exhaust leaks? I assume the tapping noise is related to engine speed- it does not change with gear changes.
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