Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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I used to think having to shower and change clothes to remove petrol smells after a long run was part of the TR6 experience, until I had my PI system rebuilt and recalibrated- it was running extremely rich. I fixed up the PI and the smell went.
Check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU is releasing fully when the choke is pushed in. Some folks have cured the petrol smell problem by replacing boot seals, others have extended the exhausts. The Karmann tail doesn't help when it comes to entraining fumes in the passing airstream
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Looks like a stern drive. Previous use in fresh or salt water? 20 years dry storage and not rotated? You are probably up for a set of seals.
Check that the cone clutch engages fully in both directions. I've had problems with outboard dog clutches not engaging fully due to incorrect linkage adjustment leading to premature wear.
If you can, undo the drain plug and check for water and metallic particles. A gearbox stored outside and vented to atmosphere will condense a significant amount of water from the atmosphere over 20 years. If there's water you may have a problem with brinelling like corrosion spots in the roller bearings.
Can you still buy any spare parts you are likely to need?
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If I ever have to replace mine the replacement will be a hex headed, brass, tapered male BSP plug.
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2 hours ago, TR Rob said:
I am led to believe that a decent locksmith can cut a key even though you do not have a key, just the lock barrel.
Perhaps, give your local locksmith a call .
+1, or at least this was true last century. It would still be worth having a chat to a local locksmith, preferably one with some grey hair.
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10 hours ago, mleadbeater said:
from my experience, if a lead acid battery has been flat for several weeks, it is definitely junk.
re ammeters vs voltmeters, as I’ve said, voltmeters are so cheap you can have both, as I have in my TD. The voltmeter will tell you the battery voltage before starting, then show the charging voltage, and regulator cutout voltage, then battery voltage when the engine is stopped, and be a monitor of battery charge in the following days/weeks, indicating when a topup is necessary.
Interesting how Triumph changed to a voltmeter in the mid 70’s, and I can’t think of any modern car of any make still fitted with an ammeter .
As you say, Harry, it’s interesting that the warning lamp bulb needs to be working for the alternator to charge, as I discovered when changing the dash. Maybe a good auto electrician can explain.
Mike
I believe that Triumph moved away from ammeters because it became too difficult too run the heavier current charging from the alternator to the battery wires in and out of the dashboard loom.
Most manufacturer's dropped ammeters around 1970 as the car accessory loads demanded bigger alternators.
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You have an ammeter. The needle should swing well to the left just after you start the engine then settle down to just to the left when the cars running normally.
If it stays in the middle when the engine's running your alternator is not charging.
Can you remember where the needle was when the car was running. Maybe jump start it if you have access to cables and a good battery then see what happens.
Your battery might be history, in Australia the automobile car service clubs (ie RACV) will come out and test your battery and replace it if necessary. Only way to know if it's salvageable is to test it.
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How old is your current battery? In any case, I wouldn't replace it until I had it tested.
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27 minutes ago, Waldi said:
I would do as Roger says (always;)).
If you have a welder and feel capable I would make a nut fit to what is left of the square and weld it; then it should come out after cooling down, also because of the weld shrink.
Waldi
+1. The differential expansion between the steel plug and the aluminum case almost always breaks the thread seal after welding. But you have to be a good welder, given the plug's location.
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I would think carefully before I removed the solenoid bracket plate, amongst other things its loaded by the accumulator spring and can prove difficult to reseal.
Can you get at the operating valve plug? You could remove this and the operating valve then add the oil . Be careful because this is also pressurized- you need to operate the OD solenoid several times with the engine off , top gear engaged to dissipate the accumulator pressure.
I've never done either of the above because an old mechanic taught me when I was a kid never to drain gearbox or diff oil without removing the filler plug first- not doing this is a hard way to learn how often filler plugs are seized. I'm not gloating but I was lucky to have some good mentors 50+ years ago.
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With my car the previous owners seemed to know what they were doing , implementing changes in ways typical of 1970's back yard mechanics.
I installed the NOS oil plunger and spring hoping to cure a problem with filters blowing off a poorly built Mocal adapter. I don't know where the original PRV parts came from but I decided to leave sleeping dogs lie.
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I fitted a NOS oil PRV plunger and spring in 2016 in an attempt to reduce high cold starting oil pressure. The NOS parts made it worse so I reinstalled the old components.
My engine is not stock and I have no idea how some PO sourced the PRV spring and plunger but I would not be surprised at finding many variations in spring length and spring constant floating about in the parts supply chain.
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Mike,
on a new refurbished OD there will be no oil in the various oilways and pump.
So top up as normal. Then give it a run for a few miles (the GB will be OK with a slightly low level) then top up - it will not need much.
You could run slightly low for a 1000 miles and top up with your usual service.
Roger
Sorry, I was talking about a normal gearbox/OD drain and filter clean, not a new/rebuilt assembly.
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1 hour ago, John Morrison said:
I use a catering 5litre sauce bottle and pump, and just feed in from underneath.
Remember that, as you have an overdrive you MUST top up again after the first short run, you cannot top up an empty gearbox and overdrive in one session.
John.
Why? No mention of this in the Brown Book, which I've followed for years without any problems.
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9 hours ago, tr6tuga said:
This forum is a real Alexandria library for TR,s
My main concern now is how to fill the gearbox at least a minimum quantity without go over again taking of the tunnel cover, if possible
Park the car on a level surface.Put a drip tray under the gearbox.Tilt the car from the passenger side using a jack or whatever, undo the gearbox fill/level plug and fill it until it just overflows. I use an old Castrol syringe device.Drop the jack until the car's back on its wheels.Oil will flow out of the filler plug into the drip tray until it reaches the correct level in the gearbox. Jack the car back up and reinstall the plug.
Note:I use car stands as well as the jack to support the car while I'm under it even for this simple operation.
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Blocked air filter? Blocked or damaged fuel line between the PRV and MU?
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As I recall the bolt that holds the adapter to the block requires a huge amount of torque to seat that seal properly, even when painted on one side with sealant.. There's a chance you might have a mounting bolt that's too long and bottoming out- Mocal QA.
Be very careful of the threaded steel filter cartridge nozzle on a Mocal filter. I don't know if their QA has improved but I bought one about 7-8 years ago and the nozzle only engaged the oil filter cartridge by about 1.5 turns .
Testing it with a cold start in the garage the filter cartridge blew off- if it had happened on the road and I wasn't watching the oil pressure gauge it would have cost me the engine.
I had to unscrew the steel nozzle from the aluminum adapter body and replace it with one that engaged the filter thread by 22mm.The story is on this post:
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No worries. Your lucky the NZ fuel suppliers haven't taken to adding strange chemicals to your petrol- as has happened in much of the rest of the world.
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I use Gates Barricade. I used to use SAE J30R6 and SAE J30R9 but I was getting 2-3 years out of a set before the Australian high octane unleaded blends destroyed them.
I changed the hoses over to the high pressure version of Gates Barricade in the winter of 2017 and they've worked ever since.
The hose life will depend on the composition of your NZ fuel blends.
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If the cut off switch was tripped you would have no working pump and no fuel flow until it was reset.
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The Lucas PI manuals are here:
http://vitessesteve.co.uk/LucasStuff/Lucas_Petrol_Injection_Manuals.htm
To set up the PI properly you really need a calibration rig plus knowledge of your engine capacity and camshaft, if not standard.
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I can't open your video unfortunately. The swarf might be normal if your G/B oil hasn't been changed for a while.
Check your gear lever isn't binding at the base where it enters the gearbox, especially if your engine/gearbox mounts are allowing a bit of movement of the drive train.
I'd check that the gear lever gaiter wasn't binding and I'd also check that the gear cap at the base of the lever is properly adjusted and allowing the selectors to engage properly. In the past I've had to grind the internal edge of the cap to allow full and free movent of the lever.
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For the crankcase pressure just check that the vent hose between the rocker cover and inlet plenum is clear, and that the firetrap in it isn't blocked.
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My clutch slave cylinder movement is 5/8 inches, 16 mm and it works well. I had all kinds of gear change problems -grinding, jumping out of second gear under both hard acceleration and the over run etc- which I traced to a garage replacing the gearbox oil with GL5 . It took two complete oil GL4 to get the GL5 out of the gearbox.
That was years ago and all has been well since.
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I've seen this happen to many cars over the years. Older , richer people want the car they couldn't afford when they were teenagers . Prices boom until the majority of these people reevaluate the place of cars in their lives then the prices fall off .
Remember the prices and obsession around MK 2 Jags 10-15 years ago.
I can't see TR prices rising significantly in the future but there's no way I expected to make money out of my TR. The life experiences gained with it are more important.
TR6 Gearbox Cover Filler Hole Position
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I agree, having to remove the H frame to lift the carpet in order to get at the access hole sort of defeats the original purpose.