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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Maybe put studs in with Loctite 271 ? I went for a roadworthy in order to switch to club plates yesterday and got a fail due to an engine oil leak, even there was no visible drip on a new section of concrete driveway when the car was left there overnight, the Victorian authorities are much less forgiving on leaks than they were 20-30 years ago. You might have to fix the leak eventually.
  2. Mike C

    Diff oil

    "I use a large suction cylinder."- I use one of these but the oil must be warm.
  3. +1" I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter." I have an early model CP and running the charging current in and out of the dashboard is the reason I've limited my alternator output to 45 amps. A direct feed to the battery and a voltmeter is on my" like to do " list. In theory this is easy but there must be a tidy solution rather than running extra wires everywhere.
  4. Mike C

    Diff oil

    GL5 EP oil must be used for the diff because of the extreme pressure of the sliding friction on the hypoid gear teeth. Note it's these anti friction additives in GL5 that will render your gearbox synchro's near useless - so I use GL4 in the gearbox
  5. What's wrong with modifying the one on the rocker cover? Seems a lot easier and should work.
  6. That's a gear selector problem. Check the selectors are not excessively worn and are adjusted properly.
  7. Mike C

    Pi fouling

    +1 for old fuel, used to happen to me each winter before I started adding Stabil. And check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU isn't stuck.
  8. Thanks John . Good to know they're still around if I get into major problems with my TR's engine/drive train. There are quite a few things that have been changed from what was in the Brown Bible.
  9. The results should be closer than that, even if the rings are worn- I suspect you have added too much oil to the cylinders. I'd repeat the wet test. Run the engine to burn the oil out, add 2 squirts with an oil can to each cylinder, turn the engine over about 5 times to distribute the oil then retest. You need to be careful adding oil for wet compression tests- too much can bend a connecting rod.
  10. Thanks Mick. Greg is well known to TSOA members out here. My 180B conversion would have probably been done by Greg or Butler and Rudd in NSW- who built up my engine and running gear . Greg is still in business but Butler and Rudd are gone- as John observed the individuals with lifelong experience in TR's, who knew each car they worked on as an individual machine, are retiring and we're being forced to install off the shelf components- but at least we can keep our cars running.
  11. Huge. I've never had the back end twich others talk about, they're easy to maintain and look like lasting forever. But technology seems to have overtaken these local garage developments.
  12. Mike C


    I had my original Lucas rebuilt maybe 20 years ago with the output increased to 45 amps, at the time the auto electrician said it would cost no more than the original. From memory the Lucas could have gone above 45 amps what was in issue to me was putting more current through the original wiring after a long cold start ,PI priming, cranking episode.
  13. Some PO fitted Datsun 180B half shafts to my TR well before the mid '90's and I've had no problems over the years. The home made modification included grease nipples for the U/J's and sliding shafts , so regular maintenance is no problem. I didn't think much of it when I bought the car but I thank the PO for it now.
  14. I agree. If the bearings are gone it will rumble while driving and you'd feel changing resistance whilst turning by hand.
  15. The rust stains? Or am I missing something.
  16. Battery has had it, 2V down = 1 cell out. If you need convincing see how low the voltage goes when you crank the engine- it should hold something like 10V. Do battery outlets do free load tests in your part of the world?
  17. I agree- "In my eyes it is all about the right pump". I suspect a lot of noise problems are caused by grossly oversized pumps bypassing far too much fuel at the PRV operating pressure.
  18. Did they have to take the engine out to get at it ? I've noticed that garages that sell cars on commission try and find a lot of work to book against the owners final sales settlement. I guess it makes the car easier to sell and increases the garage's margin on the transaction.
  19. I'd replace them with the high pressure grade of Gates Barricade. A hydraulic shop should be able to replace or reuse the existing fittings.
  20. If they're working with the extra earths I'd say you've found the problem- but with intermittent electrical problems it takes a while to be sure.
  21. If it happens in your garage you could make up a long jumper lead and run it from the headlight earth to the battery negative terminal- if the headlight then works you have earthing problems somewhere.
  22. On my '69 CP the headlights are on totally different circuits to the indicators from the 4 main fuses onwards. Fuses look OK? Wiring connectors and switch terminals look OK. Do the high beams work? Does the dimmer switch work? If it's an intermittent fault in the light switch it could be difficult to diagnose unless it happens while you have access to a multimeter in which case you can start tracing the fault back from the headlights.
  23. +1, and my paper Brown Bible is covered in hand written notes and sketches of things I discovered as I worked through each operation- which 10 or 20 years later are priceless.
  24. Production of TR6's ended in July 1976 I believe.
  25. Mike C

    Gear box cover

    And if you want to use the extra access ports make sure your carpet can be lifted without removing the H frame after you reinstall the cover.
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