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Mike C

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Posts posted by Mike C

  1. 1 hour ago, Macleesh said:

    I could do it that way, I have a compressor. Why 90PSI? That's too low isn't it, or are you compensating for the different medium? 

    That was the setting when I first got the car 26 odd years ago.Everything worked perfectly at the time.  I prefer to test equipment with CA or water if possible and I needed a benchmark.

  2. 5 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

    Let's apply some science!     The question is, will the thermal expansion of a hot engine close up the valve gap?

    The coefficient of linear thermal expansion "α" of steel is about 11 x 10^-6 / degree C , or 0.0000011 /degree C

    The change (dL) in length for a given rise in temp (dT)   is given by dL = L x α x dT   and dT is about 100 degrees C              

    Consider a push rod, which is the longest part of the valve train, and is about 12", 0.3 metres, long.

    So, dL = 0.3 x (11  x10^-6) x 100 = 0.00033metres, or 0.33mm.  Or 13 thou.
     

    Clearly a crude method, but provides a  realistic result, to show, yes, you should adjust your tappets hot!

     

    As to cooling after warm up, I found this graph:

    image.png.f293af37771ef2a3fc4a0a5ccbf656a0.png

    Engine lubricant sump temperatures from a 1.6 l 4 cylinder S.I. engine during warm-up at 1500 RPM and 2 Bar BMEP and subsequent cool down.  Samhaber C, Wimmer A, Loibner E. Modeling of engine warm-up with integration of vehicle and engine cycle simulation. SAE technical paper 2001-01-1697; 2001.

    It  shows that, once hot and turned off, an engine will lose only10C in the first hour, and take two and a half hours to cool to half its running temp. Surely the first is plenty of time to do the tappets?

    John

    Don't forget the block and all other components are expanding/contracting with engine temperature as well as the push rods.

    .

  3. 19 hours ago, mleadbeater said:

    Has anyone found a difference of clearances between a cold then warm engine?

     On my XPAG TD, there are no discernible differences.
     

    Mike

    I'd be interested in any comments on this. Personally I suspect the valve train components cool a fair bit between the start and end of the adjustment procedure, if the engine isn't dead cold to start with.

  4. 3 hours ago, Macleesh said:

    It was 116 PSI, felt significant to me as its well over the max but I'm sure others have seen worse?

    For what it's worth, I set mine on the bench at 90 psi with compressed air. And it holds 90 psi  over a wide range of airflows.

  5. 1 hour ago, GeoffreyS said:

    Thank you.  I am concerned that the coolant fluid may have corroded the matrix (the car was not used for a couple of years) and may also have corroded the engine and radiator.   Leap of faith!

    If the coolant wasn't changed  and the car sat idle for a few years there are probably pockets of corrosion in the radiator and heater core. Maybe in  the cast iron block but this is far more robust when it comes to resisting corrosion than the heater and radiator- except for the engine welch plugs.

    Pressure testing will find most  leaks that are worth worrying about.

    A poorly maintained TR5 is a rare find indeed, I assume the price will reflect its condition.

  6. My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this  I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway.

    I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job.

     

  7. 5 hours ago, John McCormack said:

    I write 1 to 12 (1 2 3 4 etc) on a piece of paper and tick them off.

    The major issue with doing them by ear is you close the gap too much and increase the risk the valves aren't closing properly. Burnt out valves and seats and loss of performance and fuel economy.

     

    I do that and note the adjustment -tight/loose with an estimate in thou alongside each number. I'm basically trying to keep a tab on which valves could be stretching.

  8. I use NGK BUR 6ET's they will fire when wet or carboned up -which is a pretty common operating condition with a TR.

     

    On 1/1/2024 at 8:17 PM, SirHector said:

    New ownership here…..but my car runs very rich would this point to a faulty MU do you think

    Check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU is releasing fully.

  9. 28psi front, 30 psi rear. My suspension has been modified a fair bit but that shouldn't have much effect on steering effort.

    I'm used to driving vehicles without power assist and I've driven better and worse cars in this respect than the TR  . Following on with Mick's comment- the low speed steering doesn't  bother me, but its your car-if you're uncomfortable with the 195's you probably should look at other tyre options.

    If you haven't had your steering geometry checked for a while, getting a wheel alignment may help.

  10. 2 hours ago, SirHector said:

    New ownership here…..but my car runs very rich would this point to a faulty MU do you think

    Check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU is releasing fully.

  11. 10 hours ago, DenisMc said:

    Hi All,

    Thank you for your helpful suggestions. Having done some research into how tyres age I understand that they become stiffer and less compliant with time. As mentioned, my tyres are dated 2005. Could this explain why my steering is heavy at low speed rather than the tyres being the wider section 195/65 R15?

    Denis

    I have no low speed steering problems with 195/65R15's. What tyre pressures are you using?

  12. On 12/29/2023 at 10:35 AM, rimmer said:

    Looks like l will be looking for some new tyres then cheers for your replys got 2,3 months to sort them out as not useing the car at the moment

    Rob

     

    Make sure you check the " manufactured " dates on any new tyres you buy.

  13. 2 hours ago, John McCormack said:

    Thank you all.

    I have filled the tank as it was a bit low and it immediately seems to be starter better. Back to a couple of short cranks.

    I thought it might be possible that the fuel level in the injection pipes dropped a bit with a low tank level. I am not sure how this might happen but in my mind it was a possibility. I am chasing an old metering unit to dismantle and see exactly how they work.

    I will check the plugs, haven't done it for a long while. I should do a tappet check as well. I believe in 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. But they might need a bit of a clean and adjustment.

    You might have had stale fuel previously?

  14. This is one of the reasons I use mass produced 195/65R15's, stocks of these tyres are relatively cheap and fresh ,  besides their being just as good as anything else for the driving habits of most of us.

  15. I'd believe most TR6 owners would accept starting after 2-3 cranks to be pretty a good result.

    I don't believe the slightly longer cranking duration would be caused by a clogged fuel filter. The fuel demand when cranking is fairly low- clogged filters normally cause problems at high speed/high fuel demand.

    Have you checked the adjustment of the enrichment lever on the MU?

     

     

  16. 11 minutes ago, charlie74 said:

    If rings wouldn’t the marks go the whole length of the stroke?  It’s hard to tell in the photos…

    The original piston  insertion process might have included twisting the pistons, possibly someone that didn't use a good ring compressor. That's about the only process I can think of that will cause the limited helical scratches over the honing.

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