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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. I'm just a bit more than 11 degrees, on Australian 98 octane and a slightly raised CR in a '69 CP with a TR5 cam. I try to advance the timing as far forward as possible but I won't risk pinking and detonation.
  2. Inspired by this thread, I've just had a look at my fuel gauge. With the ignition on but the engine not running it oscillates fairly quickly between over 3/4 full to just under 1/2. Would this be a voltage stabilizer problem ,or maybe , as I had the dash out last year- a loose connection somewhere? Thanks for any advice.
  3. I set mine at 11 deg BTDC at idle with the strobe for starters, then advance it slowly on test runs until the engine just starts pinging at WOT top gear.
  4. PBR rubber grease of any help?
  5. Galvanic corrosion requires that the two materials be immersed in a conductive solution, what do you think it is? I'm interested - as I have a lesser version of the same problem It can't be dry air.
  6. My local News Corp (the Melbourne Herald Sun) paper says the UK is getting ready for a rerun of the Cod Wars: Brexit: talks on verge of collapse as UK prepares to launch Navy patrols | Herald Sun
  7. I get white salty corrosion like that in a much milder form on the clutch cylinder- might be acid fumes from the battery venting? The painted steel around the base of the cylinder in mine also gets attacked locally by something, presumably the same fumes.
  8. 8 bar is 116 psi rated pressure. I would have thought it would take a least 170 psi to rupture it. Well above the PI system's working pressure.
  9. I get high pressure Gates Barricade in Australia from Repco. To avoid resonance I just put a loop in the line from the PRV to the tank, and I'm fairly generous when cutting the lengths of Barricade around the rest of the PI components in the boot.
  10. Maybe test it on the bench carefully with compressed air and see if it leaks.
  11. They're not fitted to my 1969 CP- comm no 261** - but the threaded holes are there.
  12. Hi Waldi, Agreed , if I were starting with a clean sheet of paper, I'd probably select a pump that would bypass 30% of the fuel through the PRV at full engine load MU fuel consumption and 105 psi into the PRV - to allow for a margin on all the old installation. Then I look around for a pump that would work at that duty point with petrol and could give me a reasonable NPSH margin on the suction-if I couldn't get the suction performance I'd keep my undertank suction booster pump arrangement- the high temperatures in Australia really cause havoc with petrol vapour pressure and the r
  13. As you know the pump power absorbed will depend on the head and flow-which in turn will depend on the particular system installation. The two pumps almost certainly will have different stable duty points in each installation as it's unlikely their performance curves will match exactly. But I guess the real measure is the pump current drawn while the injection system is operating successfully under all engine loads.
  14. In mine the coolant expands when hot and is sucked back as it cools from an atmospheric pressure tank. I'd call it an expansion tank.
  15. Mike C

    Workshop manual

    You'll need a paper manual to write explanatory notes on over your upcoming years of ownership . Makes subsequent work after many years much easier.
  16. Another reason to buy a tyre size with a high turnover.
  17. As long as your imports don't have to be certified as asbestos free before landing- as happens in Australia.
  18. Any chance of a photo?
  19. Does the G/B make a grating sound when selecting reverse or is it just hard to push in?
  20. I agree. You need a radiator cap to suit an atmospheric pressure expansion tank -with two seals. When buying you may not get this type of cap unless you specifically ask for it.
  21. Agreed.No way I'd use braided lines instead of quality nylon- I'm a firm believer in form follows function.
  22. I think the point is brake fluid needs to get a bit hotter than petrol before it boils.
  23. Could be a wise move. I'd be worried about bending a con rod with the rope trick-it's mechanically very similar to when a piston hydraulic locks with coolant after a head gasket leaks.
  24. Hard wiring all the dash instruments up to 1 or 2 multi pin plugs like in a modern car is the way to go. One of my long term projects also.
  25. No 2 and No 5 injectors were the bane of my PI system- those two injectors have check valves in the banjo bolts that can pick up crud and stick. If you've tried priming the line and it doesn't work you might have to remove the MU and have a look at the check valve.
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