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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Mike C


    Welcome. Your idling speed might be too low. I set my idling speed to 800-900 rpm to minimize low speed pressure pulses on the MU and throttle butterflies. Make sure the bonnet is set to close with the plunger absolutely concentric on the latch hole- any attempt to correct bonnet gaps by using the bonnet closure operation to force the bonnet sideways will also leave it liable it to spring open when the body twists. Also if you have a repro latch it will have a round steel wire spring, these are much weaker than the original latches which had a spring made of square section steel. I gue
  2. Must have been, PandO's listed on the forum as owning a "1971 CP TR6 in Damson"
  3. But there's not many CP's left in Oz and those remaining are fairly tightly held. 25,000 pounds ( about AU$45000) would buy an average original RHD CP here with a type A overdrive. No TR6 bargains here, but then again the only salt on the roads is near the beach.
  4. +1. A CP daily driver in good condition is ideal unless you want a concours car. Note this is only true when the PI system is working correctly-"now it’s a pleasure to drive, feels much more powerful that the supposed 150 hp".
  5. Mike C

    PI Injectors

    +1. I get mine professionally rebuilt in Australia, you know the right components have been used and they are bench tested and sealed prior to dispatch. One less problem down the track.
  6. Does yours have an O ring in the cap instead of the rubber seal 12?
  7. That looks like my '69 PI except my locking tab is rounded.
  8. I was looking Austin Healey Le Mans style at when my bonnet kept springing open, but my problem was caused by trying to used the latch to "square up" the bonnet when it closed. Once I accepted that there should be no force on the catch when it closed my springing open problem went away.
  9. Made up longer brackets with a longer slot that effectively moved the edge the seat catch locks onto further back. Unfortunately I don't have the car here to get a good detailed photograph. Here's a section from an old, more general photograph.
  10. Priceless. Many Dad's have sought to build a bridge to their son like your's and many have failed. With my Dad it was helping him fix tractors on the farm. Most people these days don't live on farms with tractors but I'll bet your now glad you've got the TR6, even though it might have occasional problems.
  11. I've learned to be careful about changing PO modifications, there's generally a now unknown/forgotten reason behind them. Still I would have thought replacing a dodgy bonnet latch would have been a high priority fix , given the TR6 community's collective bad experiences with them. Good luck. Hopefully you can lift the bonnet enough to get at the latch.
  12. I had to do this to get my seats to fit (mod by tall PO?) , but the PO did not bother about the catches catching. I had to make up new plates for the catches to lock onto.
  13. Most times this has happened to me on older carbureted cars its been the butterflies not closing correctly or an air leak.
  14. I've made lines in the past using the directions in the Lucas Red Book . The nylon pipe fitting clamp made I from 2 pieces of pine drilled with a 1/4"hole. Vitessesteve has the Red Book available here: https://app.box.com/s/zz3e6x4gr4u7t360makeqbm0adxr4cu9 I did cheat a bit and heated the end of nylon pipe in hot water before fitting. A kit is available to do this at a reasonable price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-PI-LUCAS-FUEL-INJECTION-INJECTOR-PIPE-KIT-TR5-TR6-2000-2-5PI/143215478496?hash=item21584ec6e0:g:B0kAAOSwCeFenBIS
  15. Can you get at all the grill bolts through the air dam holes? From memory the one above the air filter was a bit difficult.
  16. I have to say if the bonnet is locked because the lock body has trapped the head of the plunger it would be the first time I've ever heard of this happening. Like many I can only wish you the best of luck and I wait with baited breath for the outcome.
  17. Can you get at the bolts at the bottom of the hinges through the air dam holes? Might have to remove the grill. Seemed the only way when I looked at my car in it's country garage last week. You can't get through the headlights- the body shell is pressed around them.
  18. Have you tried rocking and moving the car or just the gear lever? It might free up with some torque reversals on the output shaft. I agree with Roger, I'd take the top off while you have the tunnel out and confirm the selectors are working correctly.
  19. Mike C

    Oil leak again

    I had to coat both sides of the rubber gasket with Permatex No. 2 sealer and tighten the centre bolt up as far as I was game and then a bit more before the leak stopped. The leak won't affect your oil pressure, mine also goes over 90 psi cold and maybe 40-50 hot - depending on how hard I've driven the car.
  20. "30secs to re-pressurise everything before trying to start up? "- I have a Bosch pump and I wait until I can hear it change note after a long period of inactivity before I crank the engine over.
  21. Make sure the heater pipe is clear of your throttle linkage. I have had case of the linkage jamming- but it only did it in the wide open position. Once.
  22. If you have an old ring take it to an industrial bearing supplier- they'll sell replacements in Viton - and order in if the size is not in stock. As Bruce says, most reconditioners will not sell their Viton components as spares.
  23. I'd assume that if the Pertronix only got 8V when running and it was supposed to get 12 V it would affect the ignition. I have a Pertronix I installed 15 years ago, it's given no problems since but I can remember going to great lengths to make sure it was installed strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions- this took a bit of checking because systems with external ballast resistors, like mine , are comparatively rare outside of classic cars.
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