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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Mike C

    Alternator

    I have a 69 PI and upgraded the Lucas ACR to 45 amps, which was as high as I could go at the time. I decided to upgrade the ammeter to 60 amps because I didn't like the way it went off scale after starting. Apart from a direct feed to the Bosch pump, my wiring loom is unchanged. I've had no problems with this set up , the work was done 15-20 years ago.
  2. Water under the bridge now, but it looks like the horn circuit might have earthed out between the horns and the central push switch, this should have been protected by a 35A fuse (if you can consider a 35A fuse to be protection).
  3. I add Stabil for winter storage and have no problems on restarting. Did you run the engine to circulate the fuel& stabilizer through the MU after it was added? I've had problems in the past with raw stale fuel attacking the MU elastomers- check the plugs for evidence of rich running.
  4. Yes- "Will the pin completely fail at some stage and the lever arm not operate the fork?"
  5. I've done it with a length of wood and a tape- to get it close enough to drive to the local tire shop.
  6. Never heard of them, but you need to check the flow of their pump at around 7 bar, or whatever pressure your PI system is set up for.
  7. Mike C

    Valves

    TR6 valve seat recession due to unleaded petrol, one of the great fears of 1999, has gone the way of the Y2K bug. For most of us it never eventuated. Back then I used to sweat on every issue of Practical Classics , with their latest FBHVC test results. At the time the TR expert that ported and polished my head was long retired and I didn't want anyone to touch it.
  8. The nylon won't lock the nuts with that little engagement. I'd use Loctite 243 to lock the full size nuts rather than use thinner nyloc nuts.
  9. Can you pack the switch out with washers? I wouldn't attack the gearbox internals with aa angle grinder just yet. Is a manual reverse light switch a possibility in your area?
  10. Have you checked chapter 76 of the Brown Bible? There are 66 key dimensions to be checked after accident damage listed there.
  11. Gates Barricade and a general clean up of clamps plus a MU rebuild/calibration cured my boot petrol smells-which for years Id accepted as part of TR6 PI ownership.
  12. Mike C

    Nigel S

    The Lucas Red Book is always handy to a PI owner, get a copy from Vitessesteve's website here: https://app.box.com/s/zz3e6x4gr4u7t360makeqbm0adxr4cu9
  13. Stuart, Thanks for the advice. I'll try and find a secondhand original bonnet catch, if not I'll order one from Moss Europe. It's winter here so I've plenty of time. Mike C
  14. I had a chance to look for the safety hook today. It's not there ! I don't know if a PO has removed it or Triumph made early CP's that way- I've seen other cars with no safety hook. Anyway, to avoid any future excitement when braking hard I need to find and fit a second hand latch with a hook, or failing that get a repro one
  15. Mike C

    Kidney Panels

    Yes. Even in 1969 I couldn't imagine Triumph selling a car without covering the mess behind the ignition key panel. They're readily available.
  16. I haven't got one and I don't think the 2 recesses in the top of yours can be unscrewed to fit an oil cooler.
  17. I made one of these years ago. The 1/2' dia. hole latch lever and a tight pivot bolt stops it going overcenter. I can't remember where I found the web pages with this idea. EmergencyHoodRelease (1).doc
  18. You need to loosen the centre bolt and lower it as much as possible without fouling the clutch slave cylinder. One of the main advantages of a spin adapter is that they hold oil for start up if they are positioned so they are full of oil at start up.
  19. How hard were you braking? It's easy to see on a TR. Find a clear stretch of road, undo the bonnet catch and the hook , take it up to 100kmh or so and brake hard.
  20. That's what I thought as I drove home to adjust the latch after it sprung open . The unlocked bonnet was wafting up and down in the airstream .Aerodynamic forces were keeping the bonnet down. The bonnet was restrained by the hinges at the front- under hard braking, and as the speed dropped, the braking forces on the bonnet suddenly overcame the aerodynamic forces .The bonnet kept rotating after an upward waft and kept rotating- as the higher it lifted the more moment it's decelerating Cof G exerted on the hinges. I hadn't expected this and I was lucky to have enough room to finish th
  21. If the main catch works the hook is not needed. If the bonnet springs open and you are driving normally the hook is not needed. If you are driving along and the bonnet springs open and then you have to brake suddenly the bonnet will fly fully open and you have to ease off quickly on the brakes or drive along with the bonnet obstructing your view until you can reduce braking. In my case it was quite unnerving because it was sudden and unexpected on a freeway.
  22. Mike C

    Newbie

    I did that and also made sure it was not overlubricated. This made an improvement but my own real problem was using the latch to try and help square up the bonnet.
  23. My hook is gone as well. Only caused a problem once- when the bonnet sprang open while I was driving home due to a maladjusted plunger and then I had to brake at high speed. I've just made a note to check that the hook was replaced next time I see the car.
  24. Mike C

    Newbie

    I agree , check bonnet cones, rubbers each of the bonnet, make sure the plunger has no side force on it when the bonnet closes and check the latch has a square section spring. I bought a repro latch with a round spring opening force on cable connector =0.5kg, original latch with square spring=1.5kg. So I junked the new latch.
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