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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. The rear G/B mount is held in by 4 bolts- slacken them off as well.
  2. I'd install it in the line between the PRV and the tank- the bulk of the returned fuel goes through it. The boot is the obvious place but the heat exchanger will reject maybe 100W into the boot space which may cause heating problems. I have a diesel DMAX ute that has a small return fuel heat exchanger mounted under the vehicle alongside the chassis rail- that location works OK-although it would present additional piping problems on a TR.
  3. The spin on oil filter is supposed to be mounted with the cartridge body down- to hold oil for start up. I wouldn't run without an oil PRV- to preserve the oil pump drive shaft if nothing else.
  4. Good man Vitessesteve, - have a look at page 36 of this from his website : https://app.box.com/s/1grrnsn3ez49a2rlej9h4d5zj87bh1s3
  5. Mine works to the low 40's- which is fairly common in summer in central Victoria where I it's kept. Make sure your tank is venting properly. Also my tank is piped up so that the fuel return is on the opposite side of the tank to the pump suction- the idea being hot returned fuel is cooled before reaches the pump again.
  6. Mike C

    TR6 Value

    Almost certainly the OD fault will be electrical- check the solenoid is getting a signal from the switch , if it's not it's probably the gearbox oil level is too low.
  7. I disconnect the battery with a simple disconnect switch and clip on a battery charger & timer whenever I leave the car for more than a week or so - alone in its garage 100 miles from here. I was leaving the battery switched on until I saw the photo's of older looms that self ignited on this forum and elsewhere recently.
  8. I couldn't find a way. The MU components need to be carefully reassembled and the screws that hold down the diaphragm evenly torqued. For me it was a bench job.
  9. From Dan Masters: https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=partner-pub-8168402389087911:7413808915&q=http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/FuelPumpInstallation.htm&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiS86u6wJHqAhW34jgGHTkxC0sQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw12dqd-MMgiKzvGeIZk32VO The cut out and warning buzzer are desirable but non essential options. You can check the voltage at the pump with a multimeter connected directly onto its terminals. If you don't have an assistant you will need a multimeter extension lead that lets you see the multimeter from the cockpit ( I've m
  10. If you buy another fueling diaphragm make sure it is made from Viton. I purchased one from the brothers and it lasted less than an hour on Australian high octane. The problem with non Viton diaphragms is that the elastomer expands and you lose the tight fit needed to seal against the shaft.
  11. I use an old Macnaught suction gun I've had since I was a teenager in the 1960's. Just had to make a 90 degree bend for the end out of copper pipe- to fit between the gearbox filler and the tunnel.
  12. I've got a tunnel access plug but I generally check the G/B oil from underneath because I'm under the car every 6 months or so anyway having a look around. Saves removing/replacing the kidney pad, carpet and tunnel plug. The downside with checking from underneath is that, unless you have a hoist, you have to drop the car back to level to ensure the GB is not overfilled, then jack it back up to replace the G/B plug.
  13. Not even a spark - "and nothing doing"?
  14. In most cases this problem is due to something having been left on. If the is still a problem I'd check the current flow with everything switched off using the 20A current port of a multimeter between the +ve battery lead and the +ve battery terminal. Should be very close to zero.
  15. Start at 11 degrees BTDC at idle with a timing light and creep it forward until you get slight pinging at WOT in top.
  16. Might be a good idea to have a look at the diff oil for metallic particles.
  17. Mike C

    tr6 misfire

    TR6's need to be run close to full throttle fairly often to prevent problems with the PI. I'm lucky to have a mountain range with good roads close to where I store the car. Almost certainly the OD problem will be electrical- its so prevalent that I installed a green "OD" light from a Landrover to confirm that the the OD solenoid is getting power from the OD switch.
  18. By far the highest tensile strength fastener available to the masses: https://www.unbrako.com.au/socket-screws#tab-2
  19. Mike C

    Alternator

    I have a 69 PI and upgraded the Lucas ACR to 45 amps, which was as high as I could go at the time. I decided to upgrade the ammeter to 60 amps because I didn't like the way it went off scale after starting. Apart from a direct feed to the Bosch pump, my wiring loom is unchanged. I've had no problems with this set up , the work was done 15-20 years ago.
  20. Water under the bridge now, but it looks like the horn circuit might have earthed out between the horns and the central push switch, this should have been protected by a 35A fuse (if you can consider a 35A fuse to be protection).
  21. I add Stabil for winter storage and have no problems on restarting. Did you run the engine to circulate the fuel& stabilizer through the MU after it was added? I've had problems in the past with raw stale fuel attacking the MU elastomers- check the plugs for evidence of rich running.
  22. Yes- "Will the pin completely fail at some stage and the lever arm not operate the fork?"
  23. I've done it with a length of wood and a tape- to get it close enough to drive to the local tire shop.
  24. Never heard of them, but you need to check the flow of their pump at around 7 bar, or whatever pressure your PI system is set up for.
  25. Mike C

    Valves

    TR6 valve seat recession due to unleaded petrol, one of the great fears of 1999, has gone the way of the Y2K bug. For most of us it never eventuated. Back then I used to sweat on every issue of Practical Classics , with their latest FBHVC test results. At the time the TR expert that ported and polished my head was long retired and I didn't want anyone to touch it.
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