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Mike C

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Posts posted by Mike C

  1. I assume  you don't have a carb distributor with a vacuum line connected.

    I'd connect a vacuum gauge to the brake booster connection and check the vacuum is stable and falls when you open the throttle- no burn't valves etc.

    If the vacuum's stable and the timing's right you have a distributor problem

  2. 11 hours ago, John McCormack said:

    As we know the two sump bolts at the front and the two at the back go into alloy. The ones on my car can no longer be tensioned up. I've put helicoils in but still can't tension up 3 of them.

    The leaks are just a drip or two on the floor of the garage but I was going to have a full thread repair done. I contacted a recommended thread repair business. He wants the car on a hoist and says it will take him quite a few hours and he can't guarantee the repair.

    I decided to persevere with the leaks, it is a TR and the engine does have a few other minor leaks. But I'm having 2nd thoughts.

    Any advice on the job and the degree of difficulty in getting a 100% result?


    Maybe put studs in with Loctite 271 ? I went for a roadworthy in order to switch to club plates yesterday and got a fail due to an engine oil leak, even there was no visible drip on a new section of concrete driveway when the car was left there overnight, the Victorian authorities are much less forgiving on leaks than they were 20-30 years ago. You  might have to fix the leak eventually.

  3. +1"  I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter."

    I have an early model CP and running the charging current in and out of the dashboard is the reason I've limited my alternator output to 45 amps. A direct feed to the battery and a voltmeter is on my" like to do " list. In theory this is easy but there must be  a tidy solution rather than running extra wires everywhere.

  4. 37 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    Spec.  GL4 should be used as GL 5 is said to eat the yellow metal thrust washers on the sun and planet differential gears.

    Peter W

    PS.  How do you get the oil out your axle.   Do you have a drain plug or use a suction method?

    GL5 EP oil must be used for the diff because of the extreme pressure of the sliding friction on the  hypoid gear teeth. Note it's these anti friction additives in GL5 that will render your gearbox synchro's near  useless - so I use GL4 in the gearbox

  5. 3 hours ago, neil mckay said:

    J type overdrive gearbox problem. On occasions if I select reverse quickly the lever jams I reverse position but vehicle remains in forward gear. It can only be rectified by removing gaitor , metal housing and stick and levering over to LHS slot to slot to get back into neutral. Any ideas what is causing this problem please ?

    That's a gear selector problem. Check the selectors are not excessively worn  and are adjusted properly.

  6. 1 hour ago, JohnC said:

    Apologies for the thread digression - I think Mike (the machinist/artist behind much of Eric Rudd and team's wonderful work) is still to be seen around Geoff Morse's Peninsula SportsCars. And Richard (also at PS) isn't too shabby when it comes to remembering the idiosyncrasies of individual cars! But they do accept MGs as well...and Astons, Jags, Sunbeams...what is the world coming to?


    Thanks John . Good to know they're still around if I get into major problems with my TR's engine/drive train. There are quite a few things that have been changed from what was in the Brown Bible.

  7. The results should be closer than that, even if the rings are worn- I suspect you have added too much oil to the cylinders.

    I'd repeat the wet test. Run the engine to burn the oil out,   add 2 squirts with an oil can to each cylinder, turn the engine over about 5 times to distribute the oil then retest.

    You need to be careful adding oil for wet compression  tests- too much can bend a connecting rod.

  8. 2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

    My contact in Aussie land when I researched the Datsun 180B driveshaft mods was Greg Tunstall  at Greg Tunstall Mechanical.

    Mick Richards

    Thanks Mick. Greg is well known to TSOA members out here. My 180B conversion would have probably been done by Greg or  Butler and Rudd in NSW- who built up my engine and running gear  . Greg is still in business but Butler and Rudd are gone- as John observed the individuals with lifelong experience in TR's, who knew each car they worked on as an individual machine,  are retiring and we're being forced to install off the shelf components- but at least we can keep our cars running.

  9. 3 hours ago, JohnC said:

    Thanks Mike, I stand corrected. That's what I have fitted. Made a huge difference to the handling, particularly out of corners.


    Huge. I've never had the back end twich others talk about, they're easy to maintain and look like lasting forever. But technology seems to have overtaken these local garage developments. 

  10. 12 minutes ago, kcsun said:

    Is it better to replace with the same or a higher output model???


    I had my original Lucas rebuilt maybe 20 years ago with the output increased to 45 amps, at the time the auto electrician said it would cost no more than the original. From memory the Lucas could have gone above 45 amps  what was in issue to me was putting more current through the original wiring after a long cold start ,PI priming, cranking episode.

  11. 1 hour ago, JohnC said:

    Like the Datsun 120 had!

    Some PO fitted Datsun 180B half shafts to my TR well before the mid '90's and I've had no problems over the years. The home made modification included grease nipples for the U/J's and sliding shafts , so regular maintenance is no problem. I didn't think much of it when I bought the car but I thank the PO for it now.

  12. 2 hours ago, RogerH said:

    Hi Ian,

    could the rust be going the other way - from the brake drum to the big nut.

    I've never seen rust coming from the nut (unless it is loose) - how would it get into the bearings.  I would expect to hear noisy bearings.

    Remove the drum and see what is going on.



    I agree. If the bearings are gone it will rumble while driving and you'd feel  changing resistance  whilst turning by hand.

  13. Battery has had it, 2V down = 1 cell out. If you need convincing see how low  the voltage goes when you crank the engine-  it should hold something like 10V.

    Do battery  outlets do free load tests in your part of the world?





  14. I agree- "In my eyes it is all about the right pump". I suspect a lot of noise problems are caused by grossly oversized pumps bypassing far too much fuel at the PRV  operating  pressure. 

  15. Did they have to take the engine out to get at it ? I've noticed that garages that sell cars on commission try and find a lot of work to book against the owners final sales settlement. I guess it makes the car easier to sell and increases the garage's margin on the transaction.

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