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Mike C

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Posts posted by Mike C

  1. 6 hours ago, JohnC said:


    Summer is here :D And the coming weekend will see temps well into the 30s. We'll see. 

    42 in Euroa, where I keep  my car. Just replaced the voltage stabilizer to make sure I have an accurate temperature gauge for the weekend.

  2. On 12/19/2020 at 10:06 AM, Mike C said:

    Inspired by this thread, I've just had a look at my fuel gauge. With the ignition on but the engine not running it oscillates fairly quickly between over 3/4 full to just under 1/2. 

    Would this be a voltage stabilizer problem ,or maybe , as I had the dash out last year- a loose connection somewhere?

    Thanks for any advice.


    Yep, it was the voltage stabilizer. Now I can throw away the 1/2" dowel dip stick. 

  3. 5 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

    Hi Ed


    Yes, the gap between the dimples is approx 9cm.  So my logic is 9cm of travel BUT the other slider allows further.  I am a bit confused today!

    My sliders allow much more movement on one side than the other when installed. I put it down to the production processes back in the '60's. Dedicated components weren't made RH & LH to suit the final installation.

  4. Water's getting into the gauge from rain or washing. If you  have the skills to  remove the gauge you would be able to replace the gaskets behind the glass. I purchased new gaskets from a UK Smiths/Jaeger specialist and followed instructions that were readily available on line. Unfortunately the link to the gauge repair instructions is in my home computer which I can't access at the moment.


  5. 8 hours ago, astontr6 said:

    Did you take up the offer and use them. If so did they come apart?


    No. I paid a bit extra to get a filter from an Australian company whose filters I've been buying since the late '60's called Ryco. The filter I use is a Ryco Ryco R2132P .

  6. 33 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

    The CAV filter! There were 2 types one for petrol Lucas part number 54733180 and one for diesel. I do not know what the difference was? But I suspect that it was in the paper  filter element? I used the CAV filter for years but I had modified the pipework to 3/8" and used the larger filer head which also had larger pipe unions. In my view the original 1/4" bore pipe work is not big enough for a BOSCH pump and I believe this will shorten their life as it will not meet 5litres per minute at the pump, as required by BOSCH. 


    I  was told the difference between the two CAV filters was in the adhesives used to hold the paper element in place- that was years ago when I was offered a supply of surplus CAV diesel filters cheap.

  7. 3 hours ago, matttnz said:

    Thank you.

    Of course it pains me to admit that Aussie wine is "adequate" but I must admit it's vaguely tolerable! Will also admit that China currently have not expanded their manufacturing skill set to include wine :)

    And China's boycotted Australian lobsters, sending the price plummeting- I had two over Christmas.

  8. 9 hours ago, colin3511 said:

    I have asked Revotec and they will only supply a complete fan assembly. Apparently they are all fully balanced so they just can’t supply the fan blade. Sounds like a load of bullshine to me. I wouldn’t mind so much if they didn’t want £120 + shipping for a replacement fan assembly! Remember I am reusing all other parts including mounting brackets etc.

    I am going to try Roger’s suggestion of reversing the motor and see how well it blows as it is only a supplement to the mechanical fan. The mechanical fan, in theory, should provide adequate cooling in the UK anyway.


    My mechanical fan provides adequate cooling during Australian summers, but I don't use the car much these days when the temperature is above 40 degrees Centigrade. But ,then again, I don't use my car where I could get stuck in traffic jams.

  9. 1 hour ago, AarhusTr6 said:


    I'm sad to say to those living on the mainland all of my rebuild parts for my top end rebuild are either stuck somewhere in transit with  an unknown delivery date or even returned to original supplier.





    It may not be Brexit-CV19 is playing havoc with shipping worldwide.

  10. 19 minutes ago, TRier said:

    HI Mike, yeah I figured so, I didn't fit the new vacuum link pipes initially because they are really tight and its going to be a bit of a b**tard to do and I was trying to minimise handling of those beautiful recond manifolds from Neil, they should really only be going on when everything is clean and finished but bureaucracy being what it is here I have to do this a little out of the logical sequence one would do a restoration and start the car before I break it down, its a registration/tax/import duty issue. But as you say, time to do it now as it could be leaning the mixture too much. I'll grease them up and squeeze them on. 

    Good progress, this forum business is fantastic, I'm a man in a shed here on my own and I've never participated in something like this before, really fantastic resource.

    If you're fortunate enough to own a PI TR6 , there's nothing more useful for looking after your car than this forum.

  11. 49 minutes ago, TRier said:

    Hi Alan, I'd say that's accurate enough, there is a voltage drop and of approximately the order you outline. I think things have moved along now past the pump worries, its probably not brilliant but definitely good enough for the short term purpose here which is just to get a start. I have fuel and fire now, I'd be confident enough fuel, fire I need to look a bit  more at to be confident but after that maybe now heading for a question mark over whether they occur at the right time. 

    Thanks for the input.

    Congratulations on making good progress. Any air leaks in the inlet manifold and connected piping will make the car very hard to start. With regard to your sparks -whenever I see Lucas components in any electrical system I start fault finding  by checking all relevant earths.

  12. I'd try and ensure the injector lines are fully primed. I do this by:

    Fresh fuel in the tank

    Plugs out

    Enrichment lever full on

    Crank engine. Pull on the injector tips until all air clears from the line- I hold the injectors high to help vent air  and bleed into a jar until I get a good spray pattern

    I then reinstall the plugs and injectors without the keeper plates and start the engine. At this stage you should be able to feel the injector pulse if you have the black nylon lines. Injectors with weak pulses can be removed and bled further by pulling on the tips over a suitable container. Don't let fuel spray near the manifold or injector port- I had a fire start once when I did this-shouldn't happen but it did.

    When all injectors are clear reinstall the keeper plates.

    If you can't get good spray patterns  with the bleeding process look at the MU-if your pump/PRV setup  is supplying 108 psi at the MU that's enough to bleed the injectors and get the engine idling with a good MU. 


  13. 12 hours ago, JohnC said:

    Please would you point me to such a product? I had a quick look at the Osram Nightbreaker line, and noted this caveat "These products are not ECE-approved and must not be used on public roads in any exterior application. Use on public roads will invalidate both the operating license and insurance coverage. Some countries prohibit the sale and use of these products. Please contact your local distributor for information on your country."  That was for the LEDriving HL H4 Gen2 product. I'd love to fit LEDs to my TR6 but staying legal is non-negotiable.


    Me too , but I technically I'm told LED's don't comply with the Australian ADR's for retrofitting to vehicles which didn't have the lighting system  originally designed and tested for this equipment . I'm thinking of fitting LED's from one of our local quality lighting suppliers like Narva, and seeing what happens- but to be honest I'm in no rush as I don't use the TR much at night- the hills around where it's garaged are infested with fairly large kangaroos .

  14. 55 minutes ago, John McCormack said:

    Yep, a gearbox out job. I might put up with it for a bit longer. A few extra revs as you let the clutch out seems to cure the shudder, if not the cause.

    Are you sure your gearbox mounts are OK?

  15. 12 hours ago, Mike C said:

    Reduced throw due to reduced rotation?

    Meaning, the maximum lever movement possible with the slave cylinder will move the thrust bearing less with the pin in the outer hole, just looking at rotation & moments around the release bearing shaft. 

  16. I assume it's firing-"the engine turns for a few revs". Maybe try to get it running for a few seconds with starting fluid( or is that startpilot?)- might free something up. Are the carb float levels correct and the floats not sticking? I don't have a carbed TR6 but that has been a problem on other cars and bikes I've owned in the past.

  17. On 11/8/2020 at 9:38 PM, JohnC said:

    Are there any speed-sensitive, or angle-sensitive systems available? Many years ago I drove a car with experimental angle-sensitive hydraulic assistance. Really impressive. But that requires a non-linear rack (I think). Is the hydraulic system referenced above (by iani) progressive? And are any of the available EPAS systems progressive in any way?


    I've got an old  GMH Statesmen with speed and angle sensitive steering. Like Stuart says it's basically electronic- signals from the speedometer and body control module  feed into pulsing solenoids and a rotary throttling valve that reduces the amount of power assist at high speed and increase it at high speed/parking. The Statesman might be old but it's 24 years younger than my TR6. I can't see how variable ratio steering can be easily adapted into a TR6's basically mechanical systems.


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