Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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8 hours ago, michaelfinnis said:
Seems a bit excessive to change every service. Workshop manual says clean with petrol.
Mike
I use petrol or kero to remove the gunk and then blow it clear with compressed air. There's not a huge volume of air flowing through the trap.
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If the "PCV" has just wire gauze in it its a flame trap. It's the gauze that needs periodic cleaning.
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41 minutes ago, CK's TR6 said:
Flame trap? on an alloy cover?
It's usually in the vent line connected to the side of the cover( looks like the PCV fitted to later cars) and can block.
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Pump cavitating or PRV sticking at full bypass?
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Is the tank venting properly ? Open the cap and see if things improve.
Maybe the run heated the fuel so much it's boiling in the pump suction line. In this case it will improve when the tank cools down.
Where is the pressure gauge tapping? The gauge is not showing 108 psi.
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6 minutes ago, RobH said:
Mike - if you read the spec that coolant already has the tell-tale colour change stuff in it, to show presence of combustion products.
OK. Could be heat soak from the block to the coolant -the 10 min delay is a characteristic of this cause-this has happened to me occasionally on 40+C deg days in an old V8 Holden after a few hours running at high speed. These days if this is likely to happen I idle the engine for 5 mins or so after stopping to cool things down.
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Forget the coolant colour. I'd check the coolant foam for combustion gases, in Australia a test kit for these gases is around $50.
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If you rev the engine with the radiator cap off, radiator full of coolant, do you see bubbles appear?
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Whatever your decision, you may want to consider that most TR tyres these days age expire long before they're worn out.
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I use a bushed down 12mm SS/PTFE ball valve but I have loads more space. I assume you don't want to use fuel line clamps:
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8 hours ago, DRD said:
But does it really matter??
+1, given the difficulty of finding original TR6 indicator parts these days.
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I use engine oil on the ball at the bottom of the gear lever.
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It's pretty common to leave boat, farm machinery and irrigation pump engines for 6+months between starts. I've never have had such an engine fail to crank over on restart.
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Was the new starter installed when the engine turned freely?
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Have you taken all the spark plugs out and tried to rotate the crank?
+1. If you've filled the radiator with coolant you might a piston locking up due to a leaking head gasket.
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9 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
Don’t they help reduce the hot air from the radiator going into the plenum ?
I repositioned mine to have the horns facing the drivers side mudguard in the hope of picking up colder air with less pressure drop. Just looked at a Triumph 2.5 PI manual- the hoses are gone and the horns point down.
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4 hours ago, Waldi said:
EPDM is not resistant to oil. I think it may not be an issue in this application until the mounts catch some oil…
Waldi
+1. Wouldn't work on my car. My TR has the traditional underbody rust protection system- fed through the engine/gearbox oil fillers.
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The two things that look about the size of a vacuum cleaner hose? Mine have been gone for decades- as I see it they unnecessarily restrict the inlet air flow.
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3 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
When Starting the engine, don't touch the clutch and out of gear.
Regards Harry
+1
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Don't depress the clutch pedal while starting- unlike most modern cars.
When starting with a depressed clutch the thrust bearings have a high loading but no oil pressure.
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How do you know it's these cylinders-"The problem appears to be cylinders 1, 2 and 3"?
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11 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
The Americans laugh at us for our obsession, near to panic, with the ill effects of lead-free fuel. They had it for five years before we did and had no panic and no ill effects. Experience since 2000 has been that after years with lead in the petrol, the valves acquire a 'lead memory', probably lead atoms incorporated in the steel surface, that protects them, certainly for "500 miles of gentle driving". That will not include prolonged motorway driving or competition use, and re-grinding the valves will lose that memory and protection. But if you have the head off to regrind the valves then sending it away to have steel seats inserted is a minor inconvenience.
This confidence should not extend to the rubber components of the fuel system. Modern alcohol-containing fuels can be most destructive, and hoses etc should be replaced with R9 specification such as Gates Barricade.
John
+1. Remember the obsession with valve seat recession due to unleaded fuels in the British classic car media 25 years ago. They largely overlooked the effects of unleaded petrol on the original fuel system elastomers - virtually all of which are now unsuitable for modern high octane, unleaded fuels.
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I'nm sure someone with a LHD can help.
Personally I have a RHD and I've removed the ventilation hoses to get more access space behind the dashboard- in over 25 years of ownership I've driven with the top up maybe twice- back in the late '90's.
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I use a Ryco R2132P, it's an Australian version of the original but I know it's designed for our local petrol. It looks like a Crossland 522.
You can find filter alternatives here:
https://www.fuelfilter-crossreference.com/
Rebuilt engine not running
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'd check the timing with a timing light and see if it moves/disappears during the farts and bangs.