Mike C
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Posts posted by Mike C
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8 hours ago, DRD said:
But does it really matter??
+1, given the difficulty of finding original TR6 indicator parts these days.
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I use engine oil on the ball at the bottom of the gear lever.
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It's pretty common to leave boat, farm machinery and irrigation pump engines for 6+months between starts. I've never have had such an engine fail to crank over on restart.
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Was the new starter installed when the engine turned freely?
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Have you taken all the spark plugs out and tried to rotate the crank?
+1. If you've filled the radiator with coolant you might a piston locking up due to a leaking head gasket.
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9 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
Don’t they help reduce the hot air from the radiator going into the plenum ?
I repositioned mine to have the horns facing the drivers side mudguard in the hope of picking up colder air with less pressure drop. Just looked at a Triumph 2.5 PI manual- the hoses are gone and the horns point down.
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4 hours ago, Waldi said:
EPDM is not resistant to oil. I think it may not be an issue in this application until the mounts catch some oil…
Waldi
+1. Wouldn't work on my car. My TR has the traditional underbody rust protection system- fed through the engine/gearbox oil fillers.
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The two things that look about the size of a vacuum cleaner hose? Mine have been gone for decades- as I see it they unnecessarily restrict the inlet air flow.
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3 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
When Starting the engine, don't touch the clutch and out of gear.
Regards Harry
+1
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Don't depress the clutch pedal while starting- unlike most modern cars.
When starting with a depressed clutch the thrust bearings have a high loading but no oil pressure.
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How do you know it's these cylinders-"The problem appears to be cylinders 1, 2 and 3"?
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11 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
The Americans laugh at us for our obsession, near to panic, with the ill effects of lead-free fuel. They had it for five years before we did and had no panic and no ill effects. Experience since 2000 has been that after years with lead in the petrol, the valves acquire a 'lead memory', probably lead atoms incorporated in the steel surface, that protects them, certainly for "500 miles of gentle driving". That will not include prolonged motorway driving or competition use, and re-grinding the valves will lose that memory and protection. But if you have the head off to regrind the valves then sending it away to have steel seats inserted is a minor inconvenience.
This confidence should not extend to the rubber components of the fuel system. Modern alcohol-containing fuels can be most destructive, and hoses etc should be replaced with R9 specification such as Gates Barricade.
John
+1. Remember the obsession with valve seat recession due to unleaded fuels in the British classic car media 25 years ago. They largely overlooked the effects of unleaded petrol on the original fuel system elastomers - virtually all of which are now unsuitable for modern high octane, unleaded fuels.
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I'nm sure someone with a LHD can help.
Personally I have a RHD and I've removed the ventilation hoses to get more access space behind the dashboard- in over 25 years of ownership I've driven with the top up maybe twice- back in the late '90's.
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I use a Ryco R2132P, it's an Australian version of the original but I know it's designed for our local petrol. It looks like a Crossland 522.
You can find filter alternatives here:
https://www.fuelfilter-crossreference.com/
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Ventilation hoses?
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1 hour ago, jpmf said:
And most, if not all, are only suitable for diesel and not E10
Agreed. E 10 attacks the adhesives used in many filters designed for use with diesel fuel.
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Just one comment. Last time I had a windscreen removed for car painting it had to be scrapped- the painter said it couldn't be taken out and then reused. This meant new glass, rubber and trim strip.
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7 hours ago, Hawk said:
As much out of curiosity as anything else but also ever eager to try something new ..... how do you start your TR6 and is there a 'correct' way.
Regardless of how long stood for, I turn ignition on to prime injectors for 30 seconds, pull out choke lever fully and crank for 2 or 3 seconds .... giving the accelerator a quick blip just as the motor catches. Even if left for a few weeks, I can normally start after only a couple of cranks.+1. But if I leave the car for more than a month or so it needs a lot more cranking.
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This might help:
https://app.box.com/s/zz3e6x4gr4u7t360makeqbm0adxr4cu9
When working on the MU, I've replaced seals/diaphragms but never touched any internal adjustments. That said when I had my MU and injectors professionally rebuilt and recalibrated by an expert with a Lucas test rig , it vastly improved the car's performance.
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Do you have carbs or PI? I've replaced many original elastomer parts in my PI system with Viton. The hard bit is finding the Viton components, other than O rings.
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Clean it up, wait a day or so then puff some talcum powder around the O/D to see if you can locate the leak's source.
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On 1/16/2024 at 11:53 PM, stuart said:
This and also the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder so its pretty much a given to delete the spring altogether with them.
Stuart.
+1
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2 hours ago, PodOne said:
Not to worry it seems it's a normal part of TR ownership! Mines leaked slightly since a full rebuild.
Stops the underside from rusting.
Andy
Leaks on the TR gearbox and O/D are almost impossible to stop. Down here I just have to convince our local roadworthy inspector of that.
Tyres back to original size and pattern
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Whatever your decision, you may want to consider that most TR tyres these days age expire long before they're worn out.