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Mike C

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Posts posted by Mike C

  1. 9 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

    Don’t they help reduce the hot air from the radiator going into the plenum ?

    I repositioned mine to have the horns facing the drivers side mudguard in the hope of picking up colder air with less pressure drop. Just looked at a Triumph 2.5 PI manual- the hoses are gone and the horns point down.

  2. 11 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

    The Americans laugh at us for our obsession, near to panic, with the ill effects of lead-free fuel.    They had it for five years before we did and had no panic and no ill effects.   Experience since 2000 has been that after years with lead in the petrol, the valves acquire a 'lead memory', probably lead atoms incorporated in the steel surface, that protects them, certainly for "500 miles of gentle driving".      That will not include prolonged motorway driving or competition use, and re-grinding the valves will lose that memory and protection.    But if you have the head off to regrind the valves then sending it away to have steel seats inserted is a minor inconvenience.

    This confidence should not extend to the rubber components of the fuel system.   Modern alcohol-containing fuels can be most destructive, and hoses etc should be replaced with R9 specification such as Gates Barricade.

    image.thumb.png.72b1b1a8e33a649db4166364852e184b.png

    John

    +1. Remember the obsession with valve seat recession due to unleaded  fuels in the British classic car media 25 years ago. They  largely overlooked the effects of unleaded petrol on the original  fuel system elastomers - virtually all of which are now unsuitable for modern high octane, unleaded fuels.

  3. I'nm sure someone with a LHD can help.

    Personally I have a RHD and I've removed the ventilation hoses to get more access space behind the dashboard- in over 25 years of ownership I've driven with the top up maybe twice- back in the late '90's.

  4. 1 hour ago, jpmf said:

    And most, if not all, are only suitable for diesel and not E10

    Agreed. E 10 attacks the adhesives used in many filters designed for use with diesel fuel.

  5. 7 hours ago, Hawk said:

    As much out of curiosity as anything else but also ever eager to try something new ..... how do you start your TR6 and is there a 'correct' way.  

    Regardless of how long stood for, I turn ignition on to prime injectors for 30 seconds, pull out choke lever fully and crank for 2 or 3 seconds .... giving the accelerator a quick blip just as the motor catches.  Even if left for a few weeks, I can normally start after only a couple of cranks.  

     

    +1. But if I leave the car for more than a month or so it needs a lot more cranking.

  6. 2 hours ago, PodOne said:

    Not to worry it seems it's a normal part of TR ownership! Mines leaked slightly since a full rebuild.

    Stops the underside from rusting.:P

    Andy

    Leaks on the TR gearbox and O/D are almost impossible to stop. Down here I just have to convince our local roadworthy inspector of that.

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