Jump to content

Mike C

Registered User
  • Content Count

    1,426
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Often leading to the bonnet catch being released unexpectedly.
  2. +1 for 45 degree days in rural Victoria, but I do have a Carter booster pump in the spare wheel well that feeds the Bosch pump.
  3. Mike C

    Mystery gearbox

    In Australia in the 1960's EX was typically stamped on rebuilt exchange changeover equipment. Ie in the case of a gearbox, you supplied your old gearbox to the rebuilder who gave you an off the shelf replacement stamped EX so that subsequent owners would know it was rebuilt. But that might have been a local convention?
  4. Reading low?-In mine that was caused by a faulty voltage stabilizer.
  5. There will be free play if you rock the jacked up wheel with the handbrake off and the engine in 4th gear. I can't put a figure on it- but it should be reasonable with no obvious noise. Don't know if it's relevant but I had a similar intermittent click in an outboard two years ago- it was a worn dog clutch letting go under load. Do you have an O/D fitted?
  6. This might help if you want to determine your CR without pulling the engine apart: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi_8IXFi7HwAhXFzTgGHXfQDFYQFjACegQIBhAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.yourmechanic.com%2Farticle%2Fhow-to-calculate-compression-ratio&usg=AOvVaw0he-CA0mfAiwpdDylzuEz- But the result would be a guide only.
  7. Might be the universal joints. Is the noise at wheel frequency or propeller shaft frequency? Maybe a good idea to jack up each rear when in turn and rock it back and forth checking for noise or looseness.
  8. I agree-"as the bleed off is low pressure-ish. "
  9. +1. Asking for opinions on the the right oil for a TR6 gearbox opens a can of worms. Personally I use good quality GL4 oil in my GB with A type OD, a garage put GL5 oil in by mistake once and the friction modifiers stopped the synchro cones from working- it took two flushes with GL4 to restore normality.
  10. If it's not a mistake in David's profile- I would hope I'm still working on cars when I'm 102.
  11. If you want plugs that will fire reliably regardless of the mixture condition try the 3 electrode type- I use NGK BUR 6ET's. Of course you could be curing the symptom of the problem and not the cause.
  12. Do you get pinging on WOT low engine speed? If you do retard the timing until the pinging just stops.
  13. Be very careful. I dismantled and lubricated mine with silicon lubricant and I might have have overdone it- it started reading maybe 25% high after a month or so. I wouldn't just spray lubricant into the case. Is your tacho cable OK and properly lubricated? You also need to keep the cable lubricant maybe 200mm from the tacho connection at the back of the meter to stop oil migrating into the instrument.
  14. I'd have a look at the PRV. I suspect it's sticking - changing the head and flow on the pump. If the PRV sticks and cut's off the diversion of excess fuel back to the tank on low load , the pump will be cooled by whatever fuel load the MU wants-which could be low enough to lead to pump overheating.
  15. Mike C

    Oil pressure

    20 psi is too much for production variability. One gauge is wrong. If you are worried get the gauge tested against a calibrated gauge- in Australia I'd use a NATA certified lab for this, we used them to test pipe hydro test gauges- there must be similar accredited test labs in the UK. Might cost a bit for the peace of mind but probably worth it in the long run.
  16. I have a non standard fuel system involving a Bosch main pump and a Carter booster pump so I can't help you with a bill of quantities. I kept the steel lines that went the length of the car and used high pressure Gates Barricade at the boot and MU ends. You'll need to consider a loop ( I have about a 300 mm diameter) of Barricade in the PRV return line to the tank to stop resonance. You also need to decide whether you want to keep the original pump suction diameter- are you getting fuel vaporization on hot days? I installed a 0.9mm steel bulkhead behind the seat and sealed it with Sikas
  17. I have to agree with you. I've refrained from commenting because this seems to be a UK matter. In Australia I've never heard of an insurance claim being disallowed because the speed rating of the tyres was too low. Australian car insurance policies say a vehicle must be maintained in a roadworthy condition. With national maximum speed limits of 110 kmh max, I suspect any insurer trying to void a claim because the car wasn't fitted with say 210 kmh, H rated tyres would be laughed out of court. The reason I fit Pirelli P7's with a V rating is because high tyre speed ratings generally mean h
  18. Your problem is probably the ignition switch, not the ballast resistor. You're bypassing the switch when you apply 12V directly to the coil. I doubt that a new ballast resistor will fix the problem. Are all your ignition wiring connections secure?
  19. Maybe start by checking what circuits on the relay are alive with the ignition off, then compare the result with the wiring diagram.
  20. The idle metering valve doesn't open much- I open mine until I get an idle speed of around 900 rpm- I believe that any speed lower than this can cause pressure pulses that damage the MU and throttle butterflies.
  21. Yep, 75% or more of misfire problems are caused by ignition. Check if the plugs were wet after the misfire episode. Generally if they're wet they're not firing, if they're sooty the mixtures too rich. Your enrichment lever is releasing fully?
  22. It's been done before- I had a look it when my column switch was playing up, saved link:
  23. If the secondary cylinder were sticking this could conceivably result in lower pressures to the rear calipers. The chart at the end of the article provides an idea of the booster performance . Given the problems with some repro boosters I wouldn't be rushing in to replace the booster.
  24. Some TR6's have in effect two master cylinders: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiO-r-g3f7vAhVHX30KHYLdCHgQFjAEegQIBBAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic1.squarespace.com%2Fstatic%2F5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7%2Ft%2F5c6ee9cb24a6942d310d0151%2F1550772684554%2FBrake%2BOverview%2B%26%2BTheory.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0vu_xUdZY5Q9yzQXQtRX8y
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.