pfenlon
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Posts posted by pfenlon
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1 hour ago, pfenlon said:
Hello Stuart, I have a surrey top now, and have removed the steel roof having bought a used "H" Frame and soft top from Craig at bits.
the soft top front lip, that should go under the header rail, doesn't want to play, there seems not enough room for it to tuck under?
See Pic,
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46 minutes ago, stuart said:
Several different types depending on model and whether its a soft top or Surrey equipped car.
Stuart.
Hello Stuart, I have a surrey top now, and have removed the steel roof having bought a used "H" Frame and soft top from Craig at bits.
the soft top front lip, that should go under the header rail, doesn't want to play, there seems not enough room for it to tuck under?
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Are header rails different?
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Will the normal TR chrome spinners used on wires fit the Silverstone racing mag wheels?
Fingers crossed.
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Overdrive? perhaps.
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Lamp now at a level of luminosity that isn't all pervading, 2 X 2K resistors in series did the job very well, Thank you Rob H.
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Just bought a set of 4 mag wheels (Silverstone Racing Wheels) from a member.
They need stripping and painting. Which media is safe for cast Magnesium, shot? soda?
also any helpful suggestions will be well received.
AND has anyone got an LT lead from points to coil for an AC deco Dizzy please or tell me where to buy one, TIA Pete.
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1 hour ago, RobH said:
If the switch is like this one
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/push-button-starter-switch-rated-at-50-amps-ge338r
there are three terminals, 1 Power, 2 Output, and 3 Earth for the LED.
Dimming the led can probably be done by putting a resistor between pin 3 and earth instead of a direct connection. The value depends on the LED used but I would start by trying a 2.2K Ohm 1/4 watt resistor and seeing what happens. If it is too dim, go to a lower value, or if still too bright increase it.
[You can determine the resistance needed more scientifically by using a multimeter on its DC milliamps range to measure the current in the earth wire, which will tell you the approximate value of the internal resistor. ( LED elements work on about 3V so a resistor which sets the current must drop another 9 volts for a 12v system. )
R in kilOhms = 9/mA - ie if you read 5mA then the internal resistor is 9/5=1.8k, so putting another resistor of the same value in series will halve the LED current. ]
Its the same switch Rob, many thanks for the info, off to RS components tomorrow. What a forum!
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The bulb or LED is inaccessible in the unit Bob, thought about a resistor on the +v side but as to value, I haven't a clue.
Have yet to fit the bolt "Cover" caps too. Hope this helps.
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I have fitted a push button starter unit, this has an integral light. Problem is that the lamp is very very bright.
How can I reduce the luminosity please.
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Well great response from the forumite's once again.
Thanks to everyone, and am expecting one in the post sometime soon, thanks to Dave in the IOW.
Just the job, makes membership worthwhile for certain.
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Lucas relay (Tin type) 6RA 33231D for TR250 hazard warning lights please
Peter. fenlon7@gmail.com
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Lucas 6RA 33231D 12v 1 68
Its a hazard relay for a 250.
AFAIK the only replacement is the Bosch Square type one.
thanks in Anticipation, Pete.
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I stand corrected Mick, the original studs are 5/16" as you say, and Elin replaces with a 3/8" to 5/16"stud.
The 3/8 UNC to 5/16 staggered studs is for me the answer.
Where can you buy the above studs please.
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I suppose the subject has been debated many times , but the last mention of it in Traction, made me just check the studs in my trailing arms, which were fortunately as spec @14 ft lbs.
Watching Elin Yakovs answer to the stud problem, was a simple way of repair for the DIY TR men. (on you tube, rusty beauties TR6 trailing arm stud repair)
basically he removes the 1/4" studs, drills the trailing arm a little deeper and fits 5/16" studs, turned down and the outer part of the stud tapped at 1//4" A lathe is required to make up
the studs from a 3/8" bolt. Its worth a look or how did you do it?
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Just fitting set of seat belts to my TR250 and wish to buy a pair of seat belt guides for my MX5 seats
that fit to the headrest.
There are a plethora of these available on Ebay but which ones dont rub your neck and are in the right position?
Help appreciated.
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My rear seal is Perfect (unusually) but it came with the new Surrey top kits from Revival, maybe they can help out?
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Tank showing minimum surface rust at the inside of the base the tank, from a Californian car.
Free collection only from the SK6 area.
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17 hours ago, qkingston said:
Pete I've sent a PM
David
Hello David, apologies, I got 2 posts mixed up! My failure to buy the new wheels I wanted, means I will have to use the ones I put on the forum, until my hew ones are made. best Pete.
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16 hours ago, Paul Hogan said:
A couple of years ago I posted about an event that took place in 1956 about an economy 'race' between a TR3 and Auster J4 from lands End to John O'Groats. I discovered that both the aircraft and a sister car still existed and so I decided to see if I could recreate this challenge and raise some money for the Guide Dogs charity along the way as they benefited from the original event.
Below is the article I submitted about the restaging of this event which took place in September at the Goodwood Revival and should have appeared in the latest edition of TrAction but it failed to make the editors cut and was to be held over to the January issue. Naturally, I was very disappointed about this having put two years of work into the project and given assurances that it would be in the 'next mag'. I cannot see the point of holding it over to January/February for by then it will be at least five month out of date and so I have reproduced it here on the web. One would have thought that it it might also have been given some prominence on our web page as the TR Register very kindly made the donation to the Guide Dogs charity but that didn't happen either. In my opinion the Register wasted a wonderful PR opportunity because they failed to get on board with the project. At least it did make 'best article' in Octane magazine and 'The Auster' so it did reach a wider audience but it could have been so much more.
If readers can detect that I am feeling rather disillusioned over they way this whole project has been handled by the club then you would be right. However, that wont change things so enjoy the read because it really was a great event even though it was beset with problems right up to the last minute.
Hoges.
History can and does repeat itself.doc 15.52 MB · 55 downloads
History can and does repeat itself.doc 15.52 MB · 55 downloads
The new editor of TRaction hasn't been in the job for more than 5 minutes, I sent him a small article that I had submitted couple of years previously but wasn't deemed be of note to the membership, now in the bin I expect. He liked the article and said that he would try and include it in the next publication, but if not, in the next one.
Let's give the man some time at least to get his teeth into the job.
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14 hours ago, TR NIALL said:
Tony Sheach (TR4Tony)was doing them I think.
Cheers Niall bill get in touch.
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Does anyone know if these re still available anywhere please.
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Having finished my TR250 some months ago, I couldn't get it to run properly.
I had had the Stromberg carbs reconditioned and vapour blasted, they were the fixed jet model, and I couldn't get it right.
My new facet fuel pump I was told, had too much pressure, (By a TR expert) so changed it to a new standard pump. Still wont run properly.
Bought a set of Excellent SU carbs from a TR stalwart for not a lot, checked where they came from, a 2500S so thought needles would be OK for a 2.5 250.
Still no joy.
Sent the distributor to Martin Jay (Dizzy doctor) and refitted including a Petronix sans points unit. Plus red rotor arm. Still no success.
History time,
Bought the car a Californian dry state unit, and set about its restoration, it was rust free and the bodywork needed very little, I was told that the seized engine would
probably be OK if Freed up, sadly it wasn't. conrod numbers were all wrong, piston letters a mismatch. So a rebore and one sleeve later with new rods and pistons we
wer'e on the way.
Clearly some one in the good old USA had had some fun.
Much money, and even more time had been spent with varying unsatisfactory results, I began to hate the bloody thing.
So, off it went to TR Bits in High Leigh. The timing was suspect, but checked out as OK after an inspection of the gears etc etc. It was'nt the timing.
To cut a very long story short, they found the problem, the camshaft was a rogue, in that the markings didn't add up to a ST one, after changing the shaft to a 150 one,
new needles were needed and duly fitted, I went to road test it yesterday, and it was superb.
So a heartfelt thanks to those lads at "Bits" who found a problem that couldn't be seen.
That took experience and turned the Duck into a swan, for me anyway. Makes a change giving a firm credit these days, but this was well deserved.
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Had these water vapour cleaned, and fitted to my 250 by TR bitz, but found a nice set of SU carbs, so changed them.
I couldn't get the mixture right somehow, if any interest make me an offer for the pair.
Header rails
in General TR Technical
Posted
Thanks Mick,
back to TR Bitz on monday.
best Pete