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John L

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Posts posted by John L

  1. I have always used copper washers on the bottom cover bolts, and made sure that the circlip that holds the input bearing is aligned with the drain slot, make sure also that there is no forward rearward movement of that bearing, that can pump oil thru the seal.

    John

    IMG_2275_LI (2).jpg

  2. Thanks to both the last posters, it has opened the document, but its actually the program I wanted to open, as you can choose the engine size, chokes, and then it gives a starting point for the jet sizes that I'm really after, thanks for your help.

    The info I'm trying to get is a base line jet sizes for a Peugeot 205 Rallye eu spec, 40DCOM, there are 2 of them, its an amazing pocket rocket 1274cc with 103hp and 750 kg!  I'm sure the petrol has changed since 1988 when it came out, so wanted to find, I think now getting info from the 205 Rallye forum in France and finding out what the use currently.  Ive already tried Webcom UK and the Carb Hospital with no luck.

    Thanks again for your work!

    John

  3. Carburettors not barbies,  I seemed to have a lost a very useful site I think by Dave Andrews for calculating the chokes and jets for different sized engines and CC for weber DCOE carbs, does it still exist, does anybody have the link please?

    John

  4. If you get it running, I think it could be an injector sticking or blocked, hold onto each injector line separately you should feel a distinct pulse, if one doesn't that's the one with the problem.  Take off the locking plate holding in the injector, with the engine running pull out the injector, and pull on the end of the injector tip, that should bleed it or unblock a foreign body, you should see a nice cone of fuel per injector stroke, might be handy to pop the injector into a jam jar to stop fuel mist flying about! Keep naked lights away!

    John

  5. My friend has gone for the larger liner and piston set 89mm, will this need a different than std head gasket?

    In the larger piston liner set there appear to be FO8 gaskets, it doesn't say which size they are, but I support it will be worth having a few different sizes as well.

    The block has been away to a machine shop so I hope they will have checked the bottom land is square. 

    John

  6. Just to finish this topic, in the end I just set the servo pushrod with a straight edge, less 0.015" like the photo above.

    If I used the tool, to measure the MC, and transferred it to the servo pushrod, I needed to extend the servo pushrod, having done that and replacing the MC to the servo, I was met with a gap with the MC to the servo, and could feel spring pressure of the MC.  The logic doesn't stand up here, so set the servo pushrod back with a straight edge, like the picture above and all is fine.

    Can anybody explain why the logic doesn't doesn't add up please? I'm confused!

    John

  7. Investigating brake pedal travel, I have made up the H tool, as recommended, but I cannot remember who it was, please forgive me.

    If I use the tool on the MC and then check the clearance on the servo, I do have a really big gap, perhaps 4mm, but If I use a straight edge across the servo I do have a much smaller gap.

    So my question is do I adjust out the pin with perhaps 0.010" (ten thou )gap to the setting of the H tool?

    No wonder I do have a bit of pedal travel before anything happens!  Just wanted to confirm before I change the adjustment, thanks..

    John

  8. Could the moderators please make this a fixed topic in the 6 forum please.

    Clutch Information.

    Clutch master cylinder pushrod length for R/H drive should be overall length 93mm either 0.75" or 0.70"

    Clutch master cylinder pushrod length for L/H drive should be overall length 83mm

    Slave cylinder bracket should be mounted on the front of the engine backplate.

    The slave cylinder should be inserted from the rear of the bracket, with the bleed screw uppermost for effective bleeding

    The slave cylinder push rod should be from the end to the centre of the pin hole 14,5mm  138572.

    John 

  9. How is the clutch pedal free position compared to the brake pedal, is higher or lower?

    You may need to consider an adjustable MC pushrod, if that MC is new what is its length, the L/D drive push rod is shorter, (but same cylinder) and has been known to have been swapped, wrong part supplied.

    Using the adjustable pushrod will take out any wear in the hole in the pedal, and so will give you back the original stroke length for the MC.

    John

  10. I have just fitted one of these seal kits, the thickness of the main seal is some 0.010" less in thickness, (not the diameter), that the ones I have taken out, is this really right or are we being sold some cheap kits not to spec?  And as for the bellow seal.....It was a real sod to fix, the rubber looked to have been cut out of the mould with a knife as not a perfect moulding with nice edges.

    Has anybody else noticed this? 

    These were Moss parts, is there a better supplier, perhaps TRW or Big Red might be better??

    John

  11. Its good to polish the jet tube with some brasso to make a really smooth surface for the o rings to slide on, and clean the jet holes so they don't cut the o rings when you slide the tube up.  The nice thing about these you don't have to change the brass shaped washers.  The Burlen kit wants all new parts at a very much greater price!

    John

  12. I still have the 15AC alternator setup, but i fitted a Calcium battery about 4 years ago now, so far so good, I do top it up occasionally with my Ctek charger, will I expect to see a different battery charging voltage with the engine running as in your test above, I perhaps dreamt or was told that these batteries needed a higher charging rate than the current existing one, am I correct or was I really dreaming.....?

    John

  13. I find the biggest problem with the current suppliers, is you order it on their internet page, (very easy) and when it arrives you have to double check it, and more often its wrong, or badly machined,  call back the supplier, "Oh just send it back and we'll send you another" (at my cost) why don't they check their one parts first, best solution is,  take the old part along to the suppliers counter, and compare the new item in front of them, and go thru parts until you get a good part perhaps!

    That's my feeling, but not many of us live close to a supplier,  Hey Ho!

    John

  14. Isn't a lot to do with the new SUV's are much higher off the ground, compared to the position of the heights of our lights, I know they should have the same % of dip, or should be, but starting from a higher position.

    I also notice the new Led lights on the new cars have a much wider side angle than the old H4 lenses,  my house is parallel with the road but well back at least 25-30 meters, and I'm still able to see cars going past!

    John 

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