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Rob S

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    Arizona USA
  1. Dave gives good advice on how to get the piston out. I had the EXACT same problem as you about a year ago. I ended up buying a new slave off ebay to get it going again. One day when I was feeling aggressive, I beat the **** out of the old slave to get the piston back out. The rubber seal around the piston had disintegrated and was holding the piston in place. I bought a rebuild kit for a few bucks, did a light sand on the inside of the slave, and eventually put it back on the car because the slave off ebay was ****. Rob
  2. I purchased similar adapters from a US eBay seller (20 mm). I had a lot of wobble when I first put them on. It has taken a while to get them dialed in, plus my tires might have some balancing issues. I still have a bit of wobble, but it is MUCH better now. I have a few more tricks to try to get them perfect. Here is a like to another site where people gave me ideas on how to fix the wobble (plus pics of my car). Link Rob
  3. I have a 3.5 V8 with edelbrock, but mine has an electric choke (so I always have full choke when the engine is cold). I pump the gas twice, take my foot off the gas, and it starts right up. I do have some issues with starting it up after the engine has warmed up, shut down, and then and has set for a bit, but that is (or will be soon) another post. Rob
  4. Rob S

    Wood Dash

    I recently put in a wood dash kit and I wanted to show it off. There is a company out there that sells something similar to what I did here. I am a better wood worker than mechanic, so I figured I would try doing this on my own (nice way of saying I am cheap and don’t want to spend to much). In the end, it cost less than $25 for the wood, stain, and finish, but there were a lot of hours measuring, cutting, sanding and finishing. I used 1/8 in maple (ebay), golden oak stain and indoor/outdoor urithane spray finish. I traced all of my pieces before I installed them, so if anyone is
  5. Rob S

    Plug EGR

    I am in the process of putting a new manifold and carb on my TR8. The old setup had a copper pipe from the manifold to the EGR with compression fittings to both the manifold and EGR. The new manifold does not have a connection for the pipe, and I just want to plug it at the EGR. I am having a very hard time finding a plug that will fit. Does anyone by chance know the size? I used a 13/16 open end wrench to get it off, and it is a tight thread (maybe 24). I live in a small town, and the parts stores don't have a clue what size it is. My intent for this upgrade has always been to
  6. Rob S


    OK. I am convinced. I am back on the 4bbl bandwagon. The old manifold and carbs are now out of the car, and I have the new (used) manifold sitting in place. Now I have to wait for my ordered parts to come in (amazing that the local parts stores do not carry TR8 / Rover V8 prarts). Rob
  7. Rob S


    Hi Alec, My car will never see a race track (I know - never say never). It is just for fun. I just think those dual carbs are a little exotic or even eccentric (isn't that why we are TR7/8 enthusiests). I know the holley will give at least as good of performance and will be easier to work with, but I am not sure which will be more "fun". Rob
  8. Rob S


    Am I crazy for even considering these carbs & manifold? They are from a 61-63 Buick 215 so they should fit the engine on my TR8 without any major problems. They are dual Rochesters (stock setup on a few GM engines). I don't have the exact dimensions yet, but I am sure that either the trumpets would have to come off, or I would have to modify the hood. I don't like the idea of body modifications, but I really like the look of these carbs. Right now he is asking more than I want to spend ($450 US plus they will need to be rebuilt), but I think there is a good chance he will negotiate
  9. The only removable hard top I have seen is on the bottom of this page. I like the looks of the one sunnymac has listed much better. http://www.wedgeparts.com/tops.html
  10. Thanks for the ideas everyone, but it looks like I don't need them. My wife said for my birthday I can go buy a new 4bbl (what a great wife). I found a manifold a while back on eBay, so hopefully in a few weeks I will be driving my toy again. Rob
  11. Yes zs = Zenith-Stromberg The choke is strange. Water line goes to the choke and that is it. No cable to play with - no manual way to get around the choke. It does not appear to have any power to the choke at all (unless a wire is disconnected that I do not see), just the water line. Rob
  12. I have a stock 1980 TR8. It still has the original zs carbs on the 3.5L rover v8 (my budget will not allow me to buy a 4bbl for a few more months). It often takes 5-10 minutes to get started (even with starting fluid). Once I have it started, I can shut it off and come back in a few hours and it will start right back up, but the next day it is hard to start again. The fuel pump is good and the fuel filter is good. I disconected the fuel line at the carbs, and there was good fuel flow at that point. When I try to start it, I can not smell fuel even after I have tried for a l
  13. Thanks for the responses everyone. I will be using the ATF. Rob
  14. First post for a new TR8 owner. I have 1980 TR8 with a 5 speed. I have seen a couple different suggestions on what kind of lubricant I should use for the transmission, and I hope to see what other owners are using. Any other suggestions on changing the transmission lubricant? Part 2. To upgrade the carbs would you go to holly / edelbrock 4 bbl or twin SUs? If SUs, which models work best? Rob
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