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ianc

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Posts posted by ianc

  1. I have a rubber bung in the left side of my (fibreglass) gearbox cover, and it makes that job fairly easy - wise words from Mike/Brenda about filling, using and then topping up.  I put in 1.7 litres (I have overdrive) at first, but have 2 litres available for the job.

    As I have a TR4, I have no idea how to fiil the diff on a 4A.  I fill my diff by removing the left rear wheel and using a somewhat longer tube on the squidgy oil container.

    Ian Cornish

  2. My current battery is Halford's HB096, which I purchased in 2015.  Still holds its charge very well even if unused for a month, and spins the (geared) starter motor rapidly.

    It is cheaper than the HB068, with greater CCA and Ah.  I'm on negative earth and have the terminals at the rear, next to the bulkhead, but within a plastic battery box.

    Halford's will have an equivalent with terminals the other way about, but the HB096 would suit positive earth with terminals towards the front.

    Ian Cornish

  3. The only photo I can find amongst the 300 or so that I have here, shows Kastner tuning one of the three cars (3/5/6VC) sent to America in 1964 for the Shell 400 Rally in Canada, but, according to Tony (and I think he is correct) the cars had new LHD bodywork with the alloy external panels added.  The photo (attached) does not show the inner wing indented to increase clearance, but the carburettors don't extend as far.

    Tony's photo is of 5VC which is getting nearer completion by the month - but he is very painsataking in this reconstruction of the fourth of the four original Works' TR4s (is there any other Works' team which can boast 100% of the original cars arestill in existence?).  One can tell that it is 5VC because it has the original airhorns, purchased in Italy. fitted front left (as has 4VC, of course) and in the photo.

    As I understand it, the Racetorations alloy rocker cover has the filler at one end and the filler and the two securing nuts don't appear to be sealed.  I think this means it might not suit a sidescreen car (clearance beneath bonnet) and might exude fumes. - website doesn't state.  Perhaps someone could inform us ?

    Ian Cornish

    Kas checking engine on dyno.jpg

  4. I have Tony;s cover on 4VC now.  The filler and fixing nuts have O-ring seals, so the cover is leak-free - one needs to use one of the outlets to connect to a catch tank or dump to the ground.

    The cover is symmetrical and top is lower then the standard offering, so will suit any 4-pot TR.

    Ian Cornish

  5. When Neil rebuilt 4VC for me in the early 1990s, I decided to change to diaphragm clutch, but I have never noticed that this made any difference to the effort reguired.

    In common with many who have a diaphragm clutch, I have that external spring in place - why ?  because Neil fitted it. 

    That spring really doesn't affect the load for one's left leg and it holds the thrust mechanism back so that it is not going to be dragged by the spinning of the clutch .

    However, it is the owner's choice.

    Ian Cornish

  6. Words of wisdom from Moss's catalogue:

    "There ar 3 holes in the clutch cross shaft lever end.  All 4 cylinder TRs should be connected from the slave cylinder to the CENTRE  hole.   The othe two holes are for use on different Trtiumph models".

    The photo in the TR4 Workshop Manual correctly shows the connection to the centre hole.

    The odd thing is that the lever actually looks to be slightly misaligned when the centre hole is used, but I have been using the centre hole for over 60 years, and Peter Wigglesworth and Pete Cox, who wrote the useful advice in the Moss manual, know their stuff.

    The Workshop Supplements for the TR5 and for the TR6 do not have photos of this connection, but I would assume that the same advice pertains sine the gearbox casing is basically the same.

    Ian Cornish

  7. Graham - if you PM me with your email address included, I could email you a description of the modifications which the Comps Dept made in 1962/3 to the four Works' TR4 Rally cars.

    A number of these modifications have been incorporated into other TR4s, such as Jonathan Hancox's rally car and Mike North's road car (LNK).

    Neil's kits provide the necessary bits for certain of the modifications and, because he rebuilt 4VC for me in the early 1990s and himself is the owner of 6VC and was, at one time, part-owner of 3VC, he knows what he is doing !.

    Ian Cornish

  8. I started with the TR scheme run by Michael Mortimer in the 1970s, and have remained with it as it moved through Flint & Co. to its present form.

    I added my (comparatively) modern Citroen C5 estate to the TR a couple of years ago.

    There has been a not unexpected increase this March, but in view of the costs involved in fixing all moderns (which will get worse with electric cars) and the large numbers of uninsured drivers crashing into those who have done the right thing, I can accept this.

    Ian Cornish

  9. I have had no problems with Evans Waterless Coolant, and Neil Revington uses it.

    There are 4 smaller gauges on the dashboard of my TR, and they are there for good reason, so  I scan fairly frequently. 

    If one knows what each gauge should be reading, scanning should be very rapid.

    Ian Cornish

  10. I would be concerned at the **** which blocked both drain cocks and the bypass hose - and possibly the heater circuit.  Suggests that the whole inside of the water system needs to be thoroughly cleaned, then filled with 25% antifreeze, changed every 2 years (or Evans Waterless, which doesn't need to be changed).

    Heater circuit can be purged using a hand-held water pump, or, if careful with the pressure, a hose from the mains.

    Drain cocks: there seem to be two types, one with cock open when lever aligned to flow, the other opposite - can be very confusing!  My brother had a TR3 on which we found the cock on the cylinder was open - but there was so much **** in the block that no leakage could occur.

    Ian Cornish

  11. Conventional lead-acid battery holds about 2.2 volts per cell when at rest (not being charged), so 13.2 volts across its terminals.

    I would suspect your multimeter !

    The problem with your overdrive could be a loose connection, which vibration whilst driving could cause to come adrift temporarily.  Not easy to find - if in the 3A, could be the dash-mounted switch.

    Ian Cornish

  12. I thought I had read that the Local Authority has given those responsible 3 years to complete reinstatement - let's hope that the LA keeps tabs on progress.

    And that other idiots contemplating such actions take due note and think twice before vandalising buildings.

    Ian Cornish

  13. That's good news, John, but finding matching old bricks is not always easy because they were often made very close to the site of use, and using clay dug right there.

    There's also the matter of the original timbers.

    Keep fingers crossed that the local authority will sit hard on the company concerned to ensure that everything is properly reinstated - including the correct lean!

    Ian Cornish

  14. But quite a number of bricks and other items were taken as souvenirs shortly after the vandals demolished the pub, so there might be some difficulties restoring the building to its original, crooked, state.

    Ian Cornish

  15. In his "Original Triumph TR4/4A/5/6", Bill Piggott states:

    "When supplied with a new car, the 'Surrey' top was normally finished in body colour, although contrasting colours (usually black or white) could be ordered".

    Graham Robson, or perhaps his wife, Pam, chose Powder Blue for the four TR4s in the Works' Rally Team.  Both the bodywork and the 'Surrey' top were painted thus - it's a combination much admired..

    Ian Cornish

  16. Mike - I think that if you take off rapidly in 1st gear, there's a chance that the cover on the leading filter will hit the inner wing.  This happened a few times in 4VC until 

     I devised an engine restraint (see TR Action 130, Technicalities CD Section G15-G19) to prevent this.

    Ian Cornish

  17. If you want an alternator which appears somewhat old-fashioned, you could fit a 17ACR type, which is the unit fitted to the 1970 TR7 - this is what I fitted in 1993.

    Now available for about £54 from ATP Electonics as LRA1-1/ACT16002 - essential to specify Lefthand (even though it will be mounted on the right of the engine).

    Best to modify the bracket as described in the blurb for Revington's 058912.  Revington came up with this bracket in 1993 when first fitting the alternator to 4VC.

    When I fitted this type of alternator back then, it was rated at 34 Amps, but it seems to have crept up nearer 45-50 Amps now - but 34 Amps is sufficient for any standard TR.

    I described the fitting of the alternator in TR Action118 (November 1994) - can also be found in Section J4 of Technicalities.

    Ian Cornish

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