Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stevefmyers

Recent Profile Visitors

187 profile views
  1. Thanks John. But I'm not sure I would have noticed the problem without going through all the other checks suggested by everyone. I like to think cars are logical beasts and if one takes the right approach you are bound to come across the solution. Anyway, now got both carbs working together. Will take it for a ride tomorrow to clear the old carbon build up that's probably hanging around the cylinders! Dieseling is one of those problems I 've always had with this car and its still there. Watching a video I saw someone using 'Seafoam' to clean out the carbs and cylinders. Only trouble is no-one
  2. Gentlemen, they say the simplest solutions are the easiest to overlook but fiddling around just now I found that the rear idler screw was fouling on the throttle linkage. I remember seeing in a video how someone doing the conversion (from Stroms to SUs) had to cut out a small piece due to this fouling problem. Not sure yet whether it will be the solution to all my problems but it does explain why there was no throttle on the rear carb - the more I turned down the idle speed the less room it had before hitting the linkage - it seems like I only had a few mm of throttle on that carb. It does beg
  3. That's the idea but I would mark round the existing hinges to save time when putting the doors back (assuming the current set up is showing equal gaps round the frame).
  4. Hi George Having set the timing at 4 ATDC at idle with vacuum connected I then disconnect the vacuum and blocked the port on the distributor and she registered 12 BTDC. If I block the the port on the carb instead should I also block the port on the distributor at the same time? Not sure whether this would cure the problem I have with one carb as the front carb seems to be operating perfectly.
  5. The first thing this morning I went out to check the plugs leads! As you say, pretty obvious but something that does not spring to mind! Result- all in the right order. Will check the float chambers when I check out the needle and jet. Oil is the same level in both dashpots. Perhaps I'll try a lighter grade of oil? Thanks for the pointers.
  6. Was wondering if that could be the problem. Will check with youtube to see about checking these out. Might also explain why the piston in the rear carb does not move up and down with the same ease or to the same extent as the front one when under acceleration. Thanks for the advice.
  7. My question is why that would appear to effect only the rear half of the exhaust manifold? Surely, if the engine was retarded too much then both halves of the manifold would get hot? Also I did use the static as well as the dynamic timing and they were both in agreement. Can retardation affect only part of the timing?
  8. I have been trying to recommission my 1976 USA TR6 imported to here in Belgium since a respray and several mechanical improvements. I am being frustrated in trying to get the carbs balanced. The Stronbergs were replaced several years ago with SUs (nothing unusual in that) and before the work done on the car they were working fine. I started by checking the points and timing. I set the dynamic timing to 4 ATDC at idle and checked that with the vacuum tube removed they fell back(?) to 12 BTDC which is what various experts seems to recommend. So far so good. I then moved on to the carbs and
  9. Thanks John. That's very helpful. Not something I would have thought of. It's a bit too cold outside today so will try tomorrow and let you know what happens. Seems like the earthing is a major cause of most electric faults on the TR6 although probably not limited to the TRs. My mate has a P4 and his problems were all down to the quality of the earth.
  10. It's a Power Lite starter motor from Rimmers. I think I have got to the bottom of the cables. The two extra wires that were attached together with the red from the positive pole on the battery were both white/orange. Looking at my wiring diagram, one of them goes to the 'bulb test' relay while the other goes to the 'seat belt module'. As far as I am aware neither of these two were working and therefore I think I can safely leave them off. The fourth wire is White/red coming from the ignition and has the Lucar connector. I've cleaned up the earth connections to the body and the engine
  11. Thanks John. In the process of uncovering the car and will post a photo of the new starter together with the cables that connected to the old one - it's a late model TR6 so had a 2M100 with solenoid attached.
  12. Thanks everyone for your helpful guidance. I shall now dig out the car again and see how far I get. One step at a time seems to be the watchword. When I bought the new motor I also ordered the optional shim (just in case as there is nothing worse than having ordered one thing you discover you need something else and as I have to order everything over the internet from Rimmers or whoever it pays to overorder rather than pay twice for the postage). Question is do I really need that extra shim? One obvious way to find out is to fit it and see but I'm not sure what I am looking for. If I try
  13. Actually Bruce I'm stuck here in not-so-sunny Belgium. I live here but under normal conditions I would be popping over to Blighty every month. Sadly, circumstances dictate that I have to stay here until such time as both the UK and Belgium appear to have the virus under control again. I will test the battery to make sure she is delivering power and that without the starter motor connected I have full power with the lights etc. As various people suggest I will also check the earth strap. There were a total of four cables to the starter motor, three to the main pole and one to the Lucar. I assum
  14. Thanks for that Keith. I'm not sure mine is a fuel delivery related problem as I seem to have enough fuel in the carbs. However, when I was trying to locate starting problem (before the the power loss problem) I did realise that the choke cable was not fully engaged which probably accounted for oiled-up plugs after trying to turn the engine without a properly enriched carb setting.
  15. Good point. I shall put that on the top of my check list.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.