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stevefmyers

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  1. Thanks John. That's very helpful. Not something I would have thought of. It's a bit too cold outside today so will try tomorrow and let you know what happens. Seems like the earthing is a major cause of most electric faults on the TR6 although probably not limited to the TRs. My mate has a P4 and his problems were all down to the quality of the earth.
  2. It's a Power Lite starter motor from Rimmers. I think I have got to the bottom of the cables. The two extra wires that were attached together with the red from the positive pole on the battery were both white/orange. Looking at my wiring diagram, one of them goes to the 'bulb test' relay while the other goes to the 'seat belt module'. As far as I am aware neither of these two were working and therefore I think I can safely leave them off. The fourth wire is White/red coming from the ignition and has the Lucar connector. I've cleaned up the earth connections to the body and the engine
  3. Thanks John. In the process of uncovering the car and will post a photo of the new starter together with the cables that connected to the old one - it's a late model TR6 so had a 2M100 with solenoid attached.
  4. Thanks everyone for your helpful guidance. I shall now dig out the car again and see how far I get. One step at a time seems to be the watchword. When I bought the new motor I also ordered the optional shim (just in case as there is nothing worse than having ordered one thing you discover you need something else and as I have to order everything over the internet from Rimmers or whoever it pays to overorder rather than pay twice for the postage). Question is do I really need that extra shim? One obvious way to find out is to fit it and see but I'm not sure what I am looking for. If I try
  5. Actually Bruce I'm stuck here in not-so-sunny Belgium. I live here but under normal conditions I would be popping over to Blighty every month. Sadly, circumstances dictate that I have to stay here until such time as both the UK and Belgium appear to have the virus under control again. I will test the battery to make sure she is delivering power and that without the starter motor connected I have full power with the lights etc. As various people suggest I will also check the earth strap. There were a total of four cables to the starter motor, three to the main pole and one to the Lucar. I assum
  6. Thanks for that Keith. I'm not sure mine is a fuel delivery related problem as I seem to have enough fuel in the carbs. However, when I was trying to locate starting problem (before the the power loss problem) I did realise that the choke cable was not fully engaged which probably accounted for oiled-up plugs after trying to turn the engine without a properly enriched carb setting.
  7. Good point. I shall put that on the top of my check list.
  8. Dear Fellow Members Having finished putting my 1976 TR6 (US import to Belgium) back together I managed to start the engine without too much hassle. After a couple of weeks I was getting her ready for the MOT equivalent and found she refused to start. With a new battery I tried turning over the engine but she failed to 'catch'. I then checked and cleaned the plugs - very oily and tried again. At this stage the starter motor refused to turn the engine giving all the signs that the battery was dead. Charged the battery overnight and tried again the next day. Same problem. It is as though the
  9. Thanks for the pointers. I managed to get the right indicator working and flashing properly by taking the earth wire from the left side indicator and connecting it to a proper earth. No idea how that works! But still left with no left indicator. No flashing, just rear and side indicators light up and the front left side light. I think I might have a look at the indicator unit on the steering wheel next. After that? Perhaps check the earths on the rear lights? Just as logical as finding the solution to the right indicators.
  10. Hi Fellow Members I'm in the process of sticking everything back together again on my 1976 USA imported lhd TR6 and been having a few problems with the electrics. Fortunately, I seem to have solved most of them but am now left with one that has got me totally frustrated. As indicated in the title it involves the indicators. When I indicate left I get the rear and side indicators coming on but instead of the front indicator I get the side light. When I indicate right I get just the side and rear indicators lighting up. When I try the Hazard lights I get one ping from the relay and the
  11. I agree that if you only ordering a small number of parts then the postage element is far too high. One option here in Belgium is to go to one of the local suppliers (there are a number of outlets that provide spare parts for Triumphs, MGs and other popular classics). They do tend to be quite expensive but if it is only for a small part you might find it cheaper than the combined cost of p&p and spare part. One excellent alternative was Rimmer's offer of delivering spare parts to the Classic Car Show in Antwerp for free! Unfortunately, that only happens once a year (naturally cancelle
  12. Have been installing and de-installing the side windows on several occasions in the last week or so. Not sure why you are having problems with the runners not fitting the rail. That does sound as though there is a problem with the width of the rail. To fit my rollers on their runners I first undo the triangular fixing releasing the back half of the winder mechanism. I then get an assistant to lift the glass, lifting it a lot more at the back than the front so it slopes down at a steep angle. I then wind the window mechanism to about halfway until (with a bit of fiddling) the front roller slid
  13. The gearbox keeps slipping out of reverse. I am assuming this has something to do with the spring and plunger mechanism in the gearbox cover. Having removed the gearbox cover I referred to the Workshop Manual where it show three screws that hold the three spring/plungers/ballbearings. On my cover there are no screws. I don't know whether they changed the design of the fittings (I have one of the last production models) but I appear to have three indented caps with no obvious means of removal. Does anyone have any idea how I can unscrew a screw that has no slot (assuming they are indeed screws)
  14. Hi Andy I don't know if it helps but I had exactly the same problem last year. Part of the solution was the reversion to standard ignition parts (it seems the electronic ignition wasn't working as it should have done). Part two of the solution was to replace the Strombergs with a pair of SUs. You already have SUs so replacing them won't help (although it could be they need servicing?) but perhaps the fault lies in the ignition? Steve
  15. Just thought I'd let those who gave me help over the last week or two that "Charlie" is back on form. She managed to do about 50 miles last night and I almost had to restrain her, so keen was she to exceed the speed limit on the motorway! It did raise a couple of other problems. One is the run-on when switching off the engine. I will adjust the mixture and check the timing but it looks as though I will have to invest in an anti-run-on valve. The other niggle now is a squeak that comes from the bonnet. How picky can you get? We're off on a "rally" tomorrow and will end up doing around 300km
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