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Everything posted by roulli

  1. Tom, here's the link to the Bastuck gasket: https://shop.bastuck2.de/index.php?cat=10000&hg=11800 product code is: MD9TR6 https://www.bastuck.de/gb/classic/triumph/ But if you like the Heavy Duty one from Moss, Moss Europe sell them, I received one this week... FInally I had a look at the Payen JA510, that was lying around for years and the fitting was not so bad. Not really a need to trim So i ended up fitting this flimsy gasket, where I still wonder how such a thin gasket can deliver a good seal. But if so many people are contented with it, plus
  2. I'm using the OE Triumph exhaust manifold. But I'll check its straightness with a ruler. I do have 2 Payens JA510 in the drawer for some time. But I haven't used them just because of the fire rings, which are basically a good idea... but I've always been trying to make sure that manifolds, head runners and the gasket in-between mate without a "step". This requires that the gasket needs to be trimmed. If one pays attention, the gasket will protrude a few mm into the "flow channel" , which is not so optimal in terms of blue printing the engine. This trimming is not going to work
  3. Hi Tom, the question isn't stupid at all. I sincerely don't recall whether I checked the tightness of the nuts after 500-100mls, but I re-tightened them eventually a few times. I will be looking into the studs and bronze-nuts, a few of them are "bond" together and its the stud that screws out of the head... But its not that the nut is completely blocked, it's just that the friction is lower in the head-thread. But generally talking I'm amazed on how brittle the HP gasket has become. However the part under the inlet manifolds is much less brittle, than the parts that suffered fr
  4. Hi, I'm digging out this old topic, as I was searching for info about the best available manifold gasket for the 6, and I completely forgot that I had the same need already in 2017. So 3 years after I've fitted a "high performance" gasket from Moss. NowI ended up with a noisy exhaust gas leak under the bonnet. The result is impressive. The gasket became totally brittle and crumbled to pieces, when I tried to remove it. So at the end one can choose between: The so called "high performance" which is done after 3 years The cheapo 5£ cr...p that is even worse
  5. Hi Jochem, 40mm Jenveys should be enough for a street car, as most streetcars on DCOEs are 40mm and they are restricted by the venturies, which isn't the case on a comparable EFI throttle body. They need also to fit the Weber inlet manifold, which are often for 40mm carbs, thus 40mm Jenveys. Could possibly open them up to 42mm though... The original PI manifolds were 45mm, which is rather big for a 2,5l. But it works, obviously. I use original PI manifolds with 6 butterflies on EFI and put some effort into the linkage to make the butterflies open progressively, in order to tame every
  6. Hi Jochem, I had a similar bad experience as Andreas, with my new bushed rockers from Moss. I got the tips even laser hardened in your home country. But the material of these Moss rockers was so crappy, that the hardened surface kind of peeled off after e few miles of usage... Eventually I ended up with the HS rockers. I bought them from a US dealer who offered them machined to fit directly on the TR6. which means that some rockers were already machined on the side, so they aligned exactly to the the middle of the valve tip. The HS is not a plug and play solution as the Goodparts,
  7. Hi Spyder Dryver, i read this thread only now, but I'm at the verge of switching my MS2/ Extra final release from batch to Semi-sequential injector firing - on my TR6. What engine did you experience this timing to work best? I'm trying to understand, why the Triumph prefers injection into an open Inlet valve. Unfortunately semi- seq. will always have 1/2 of the fuel injected at the wrong time. With my BiL's stock but blue-printed VW Porsche 914 it made a huge difference when he switched from batch to semi. seq injection. But then this engine is just the opposite of a TR6 engi
  8. roulli

    Duckhams is back

    Peter, Sustained speeds at highway in my case is between 3000 and 4000 rpm, more like 3500 I'd like to drive into the Alps one day and drive up the passes... Patrick
  9. roulli

    Duckhams is back

    Edit: This post was written in parallel to Mick's post...Nr 83 Peter, so at the end there is no classic oil manufacturer who states correct mass of ZN / P (not the complete molecule), appart Penrite -Down-under. The European Penrite spec does not state ppm either does it. I found Rektol in D, who make classic oils in many different viscosities. https://www.rektol-klassik.de/index.php?language=en When I asked them about Zn and P they came up with a table where the differet oil specs vary between 1000 and 1200 ppm in Zn and P mass And we ended up in a discussion, where i
  10. roulli

    Duckhams is back

    Hi, I asked Millers and had some friendly answers, but I kept on insisting for specific relative masses of Zn and / or P . In the last email I was told: " Yes the ZDDP Molecule consists of Zinc and Phosphorus with the Phosphorus part giving the protective function and providing a phosphate coating on the engine components, therefore the quoted PPM ( Parts PerMillion ) figure of ZDDP does determine the amount of protection. Our Classic Engine Oils have sufficient ZDDP to protect each engine. If the ZDDP for example 1100 ppm then the % mass is 0.110 of the complete oil." Patric
  11. I do have CV axles and modern hubs for some years and would never look back to the original construction due to the inherent flaws of the key layout and the effect it may have on the durability, when things go wrong during assembly. I'm well aware that a TR does not have the passive safety of a modern car. I can encounter that fact with driving more carefully and defensively. But the fact to loose a rear wheel at any time is not acceptable for me personally. Having said that I fully agree that it is also not acceptable, when you pay such a high amount for CV axles, that there is play
  12. Not really Stan, I'm using an original fuel tank for US- market for EFI, and it works perfectly: standard small output on the bottom of tank via carburetor-type pre-filter into pre-pump (Hüco), that was previously used, when the car was Webered pre-pump into swirl-pot big output on swirl-pot into Bosch HP pump (the smallest one I could find with more than 100l/min) and more than 4 bar) into HP filter to the fuel-rail back via second fuel pipe to the swirl-pot swirl-pot overflow to the "breathing stub" on top of the fuel tank, which exits the big pipe where you fill the fuel int
  13. Ouch! Did it happen on the V8? Cheers Patrick
  14. Hi, here's a bar from Safety Devices, where the front points are fixed to the floor, right behind the wheel arch, instead to the deck. This design should be strurdier, than 4 points to the deck. The negative side is, the seat may not slide against the wheel arch. (They have also got a dealer in New Jersey...) Has anybody experience with this roll over bar from Safety Devices? Patrick http://www.safetydevices.com/motorsport/products/roll-cage/Triumph+TR6+-1969-1976-2-door/23/881/
  15. Derek, Weller wheels do have currently an online shop, where one may buy 1 wheel. But they ask 160,-£ shipping costs to send one set to Europe. That's a bit insane. Did you finally buy a set from Moss, and do they run true? Patrick
  16. @Austin, I took my rims to a "reshaper" here in Luxembourg, prior refurbishing them some years ago. They said they couldn't get the shape right... Probably not the best shop for that... @ Peter thanks a lot for that link. I didn't know these rims were remanufactured in UK. That's a good starting point. I would still be interested to hear someones feedback about these specific wheels. I will contact Wellerwheels. Cheers Patrick
  17. Hi, the OE steel wheels of my TR6 are a bit out of round and generate unpleasant vibrations in the steering between 70 and 75 mph and above 95 mph. I like the period looks of the steelies and am reluctant to change to Minilite's. So I am looking into the 6" repros offered by Moss etc? Question: Is quality ok, or do they go together with the usual repro crap, manufactured in a low cost country but sold at a premium price, and finally performing worse than 45 year old worn out OE parts? Thanks for sharing your experience Patrick
  18. Thanks NIgel, Tom and John, I'm actually using a self made tool, to align the 3 manifolds, by means of fixing their inlet stubs between 2 stiff metal bars, prior tightening the bolts to the head. The manifolds have also been converted to sealed ball-bearings on the lever side. throttle plate bolts released and centered the throttle plates. sealed the throttle plates with Molycote using PU hoses from Revington between the balance tubes - without circlips though But I still could only tame the idle by reducing advance at idle. And I'm having a hard time to locate any leak with "Start Pilot
  19. Good evening, what is the best manifold gasket to reduce the risk of a vacuum leak around the PI manifolds? Payen gasket (tin on manifold side with fibre on the other side) looks rather thin to me? I have two of those in the drawer , one has some heavy rust spots... Moss, have an upgraded one, in the colored part of their catalogue. Are they really better? any other gasket? Should I smear some sealant to the manifold side, or is it too hot? Thanks for sharing your experience Best, Patrick
  20. Hi Andreas, What did you experience, after the elongation of the inlet length? Is it noticeable, as your engine is supposed to have already a lot of torque at low rpms? The increase of the plenum diameter might also be an interesting improvement. Unfortunately on can only do on at the same time, as the fender come int the way. https://mytriumphblog.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/modified-enlarged-plenum_2.jpg Cheers, Patrick
  21. Can you be a bit more precise about the " hybrid cam from Newman"? I know their camshaft types PH1 (260°), PH2 (280°) etc. I run a PH1 cam on Webers for + 10000km without any problems. Cheers, Patrick
  22. Hi Martti, If you want to measure the caster in the vice, you need to do it together with the respective vertical link. I used a water-level and trigonometrics and my new vertical links and trunnions do have 3° caster. First check, if the vice is leveled, by fixing the water-level alone into the vice. You want to use this to correct your measurement later, when you measure the caster with the vertical-link. Also, the first think that gets bended if the wheel impacts strongly is the vertical link, so that might explain as well you differences in caster l&r Cheers, Patr
  23. roulli

    TR6 Diff mounts

    Hi Toni, Have you tried allready if the the "clonks" are gone, now after you have shimmed the mounts? Regards Patrick
  24. Andrew, thanks for your explanation. That makes perfect sense to me. The regulating impact of the vacuum on the MU is probably of higher impact, than the fact that you got rid of the air leak. I was in deed trying to suck a vacuum into the servo, but the resistance stayed constant. I could suck for a minute and the resistance did not increase. So I assume that I do as well have a (small) leak, or at the anti return valve or at the membrane. Also, when I push the brake pedal with constant effort, while the engine is running and stop the engine, then I feel within 1-2 seconds how the
  25. Hi Andrew, I was searching for "servo leaks" and found this thread: What I don't understand is, when the MU was set up with an unknown leak, then it should run richer, after the leak is removed, as the additional amount of air sucked in by the engine is gone. Or , am I misunderstanding sth.? (Unfortunately I have Webers, not (yet) injection.) Thanks for clearing up. Best Regards, Patrick
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