stuart

The fit of that isnt a good advert Stuart.

If the body has been restored correctly using the chassis as a jig then you should already know the amount and location of the body shims. Get the chassis up on stands and level front to back and side to side, glue the shims to the chassis mounts and the rubbing strips along the chassis legs and then drop the body on loose fit all the body bolts and then pull them down like you would a cylinder head. However if you havent already worked out shim numbers and position then good luck getting anything to fit. Stuart.

I have loads of the lift the dot fasteners for hoods and tonneaus if you need any. Stuart.

Check you PM Stuart.

That sounds a typical Healey owners driving style and explains why when I used to restore them back more than 30 years ago every single overdrive unit need rebuilding. When changing up into overdrive keep your foot down on the throttle and do not touch the clutch. Same when changing down out of overdrive. Obviously when changing up you need more throttle to cope with higher gear and when changing down you need more revs to maintain the same speed in a lower gear. Stuart.

Yes it does push in, you do need to make sure all three pieces are well home and then fit the two outer poppers. You may find the front lip needs a bit of gentle easing upwards to get the it in properly. Youve also got the frame up too high, do the nuts up on the rear bars right in to the end of the thread so the frame sinks down also if its the first time its been fitted then a fan heater facing up between the seats to warm it up will help. You also dont seem to have the rear bar in the soft section either. Stuart..

Take the cover plate off the front of the box underneath and see if you can see anything under the flywheel. Stuart.

Possibly dry input shaft where it goes through the driven plate. Stuart.

No you need the right pads for those pins. Stuart.

You need the correct pads with the right size holes to suit the smaller pins. Stuart.

It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater. Stuart.

Your parts price will now have to support all these peoples salaries too https://www.radialequity.com/team Stuart.

Interesting, I was talking to Jeff Marks from Moss last week and he had to cut the call short as he was expected in a meeting, I suspect this is what it was all about. Sadly a lot of the suppliers that have been noted as being independent buy a lot of their parts from Moss already, I suspect Loukas at TR Shop wont be too happy about this. As to the new conglomerate investing in new products I suspect it`ll mean the opposite as they wont be interested in slow moving specialist parts and the prices will definitely rise. Not quite the same but the big conglomerates have moved into

You are correct. Obviously translation differs. Stuart.

Loads of room! Stuart.

When the hitorque starters first came out I fitted one to a 6 and the owner flatly refused to let me take the g/box cover off as it had a really nice cream interior so I managed to get the top nut on using a couple of long 1/4" drive extensions and a wobbly socket going over the side of the gear box from behind! It was a real fiddle but I managed it in the end. I would not do it like that again! Stuart.

Manifolds set level and synced? Stuart.

Well they arent expensive then you know theyre clean. Most havent been touched for years and are clogged right up. Stuart.

Blunt screwdriver is favourite, get one side of the "T" in the channel and then prise the other side in a bit at a time. Best start in the middle and work out wards, your hands will be aching for ages afterwards Stuart.

They are a service item change it when you change your oil. Stuart.

Dont its snake oil, and flammable under pressure hence banned for racing. Ordinary antifreeze (Blue) works perfectly well. Stuart.

Sadly they wouldnt fit on a TR4 without major modification. Probably easier to make your own. Stuart.

Here you go treat yourself as your going to need it to put it back as well Socket Stuart.

Good luck with the TR kit build Stuart.

FWIW when fitting belts to sidescreen cars I drill through the bottom of the front face of the rear arch, a couple of inches up and then weld the plate on the back side, this means you can use the full travel for the seat. The upper hole needs to be sited so as not to interfere with the hood frame when folded as well. The stalks go either side of the tunnel but you will find the stalk itself will probably need a twist to allow the receiver to be in the best position. Stuart.