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stuart

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Everything posted by stuart

  1. Probably weighs half what it did now. Stuart.
  2. https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1666112 Stuart.
  3. No its only a trim not a filler strip which is what your thinking of, it doesnt make any difference to the seal fit but its a lot easier to fit it that way than trying to fit after using the tool you showed earlier as that will mark the trim especially on the corners. Dont forget to warm the trim up to make it easier to go round the corners. Stuart.
  4. Door striker is not adjusted right or the lock internal spring is failing, the striker plate screws should be very tight so be careful not to round off when adjusting and use a big screwdriver to tighten after adjustment. Stuart.
  5. Already fitted by the looks of it. Stuart.
  6. Stanley knife is favourite and the quickest, go in the groove where you thought the trim would go with handle angled towards the frame so you cut enough of the rubber to get the screen out and then just pull the remnants out after and bin. Give the glass edge a good clean where its been in that rubber and then fit the new rubber round the screen on the bench and then fit the trim in the groove starting centre bottom and fit all the way round and leave the excess poking out at the join, fit your pull in string round the rubber with the ends at the bottom middle and apply a good amount of lube
  7. Which is usually written on the back of the speaker magnet I.e. 4 ohms or 8ohms Stuart
  8. If it spent ten years in this country I don’t see why it’s original reg can’t be reclaimed Stuart
  9. Only if you have the right kit, usually a specific machine, Stuart.
  10. Wouldnt it be possible to reclaim the original reg number as it was supplied and registered in this country first of all and if it went out with BAOR they had their own system of registration after a number of terrorist attacks? Stuart.
  11. The bracket is actually to stop the engine moving forward Stuart.
  12. The plate fits like this. Stuart.
  13. Brass bleed nipples are a much better fit in the thread so do make for easier bleeding.https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/fittings/products/brass-bleed-screws-unf Stuart.
  14. The bolt holes in the T shirt are for the seat belts and as Mick says the hump at the front cross member is a safety feature. TBH Ive never bothered to weight down when building because if the chassis is good then it shouldnt move enough to make any odds. Stuart.
  15. If the trim wont fit because the rubber is wrong then you may as well just take a Stanley knife to the rubber as thats the quickest way to get them out, when re-fitting put the rubber round the glass and then warm the trim up in a bucket of hot water and fit it into the rubber then it the whole lot to the car. Dont trim off the excess of the finisher until its settled for a week or so. then trim and fit the clip. Stuart.
  16. It sits on top of the rubber when fitted as the tail with the bulb should fit into the shaped groove in the rubber, that’s always supposing you have the correct shaped rubber, I only ever fit the Moss ones as the others don’t fit properly Stuart.
  17. No that’s the wrong shape it’ll never fit. Item 23 with clip 24 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/windscreens-glazing-fittings/windscreen-tr4-4a-1961-67.html This is what you need below, where did yours come from? Stuart
  18. Looks like the same type as I linked to at the start. Stuart.
  19. Sadly its not good when they turn up with poor paint finish and your trying to make the best of it but do still bear in mind too much flatting off and theres a possibility of going through to the primer which will then cause you even more problems of trying to match when refinishing a panel. Always keep off the edges as much as possible especially if your using a machine, always keep the surface wet when using compound to guard against burning the paint with too much heat off the polisher. If using wet and dry then add some washing up liquid to the water (always use the cheap corner shop type
  20. But it has no "Depth" of shine, thats point. Stuart.
  21. I bought mine about ten years ago at least and it wasnt a particularly good moulding then and did take a lot of work to get right, I bought it as just a bare frame from Moss as back then they had a regular delivery to an MG garage in the north of the county so I could pick it up from there. Luckily at the time I was doing a resto on a 5 that had a Surrey with a mint original frame so I had that to compare with to get all the lines right. I fitted a new Honeybourne one last year and was disappointed with the finish and now theyve crept up that much in price its almost worth saving up a bit more
  22. FWIW Pete white is the best colour to hide imperfections in surfaces like fibre and wouldnt look too bad against the red of the car. When I did my backlight frame I spent a lot of time blocking it off first of all then gave it a good thick coat of 2K primer which was blocked off and re-applied and so when I came to paint it it now looks exactly like an ally one and can only be distinguished by tapping it or the poly window.. Stuart.
  23. Ive been reading this thread and quietly laughing to myself. This is the eternal problem with 2K paint. Unless its flatted and polished properly within 24hrs of painting it never really looks that good. It might be a bit shiny after hours and hours of work but it never has the "depth" of shine that original Cellulose has and with that a nice flat off with 1200 w/dry and then polished back up with some G3 compound and then some T-cut and a nice coat of Autoglym polish and it will outshine any amount of polishing 2k. But you boys seem to like hard work so go ye ahead Stuart.
  24. Shame we dont have the same traffic laws in this country as they do in Germany, Traffic is made to part to allow emergency services through and the Polizei take a very very dim view of flouting that law. Stuart.
  25. TBH I would replace the rubbers and put them back and drive on. Stuart.
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