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Jim F

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Posts posted by Jim F

  1. somewhat tangential comment - I recently replaced bronze value guides with steel guides on my TR5.  Bronze sounded like a great idea when I had the engine rebuilt but after ~10k miles I discovered a couple of the guides had moved in the head.  Differing expansion coefficient is the likely cause and, while I understand the risk of this happening can be limited by knurling the outer surface of the valve guide, I've decided that I'll stick with steel in the future.   To your question I didn't experience any sticking issues.

    Jim

  2. As you pull together you plan to assemble the engine its worth knowing what the cylinder head combustion chamber volumes are.  That will influence piston clearance, compression ratio etc.  There are a few work sheets/spreadsheets around to help pull all the calculations together.  

  3. Ian, interesting stuff re the SAH engine configs.   At some point I'll need to tear down my engine and check it out.  

    Re colour my TR250 block is painted green, (similar to leyland engines - austins, minis etc - could be mowog green), and the head is painted a pale blue.  The engine number differs from the original but its in the same range, (replacement engine number CC5844 original (BMH cert) was CC5677).  And the engine hasn't been apart for many decades.

    Jim

  4. Hi.

    All good info.  At some point I'll need to take the head off and check it out to see how, or if, the head was modified.  From the numbers stamped on the head it appears to be a standard TR250 head.  At the moment it's a tired engine that leaks and burns oil.  But the head colour had puzzled me up to now and the potential SAH history adds a little more character.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Jim

     

    BFF38642-83C0-4075-ADB4-D00D4D290D11_1_201_a.jpeg

  5. Very surprised to hear that the glovebox lights weren't fitted as standard.  My 5 came off the production line on the last day of production and is fitted with a glove box light.  It might have been an after market fitment but I had assumed they all had them.  My TR250 doesn't have one fitted, it has a mid-production run serial number.

     

    Jim

  6. 15+ years ago I had an engine rebuild and decided to 'improve' the head with new bronze valve guides.  Well I just had the head rebuilt, with stock guides, because 2 or 3 of the bronze alloy guides had loosened and moved.  No evidence that they's seized due to too little clearance, likely it happened because of differing thermal expansion coefficients over ~15 years.    Bottom line - I'd stick with stock guides unless there's a pressing reason to change.

    Jim

  7. TRier, where are you located?

    Lots of good advice and expertise above.  

    Having read the comments and given the OK pressure (108) at the MU I'm left wondering whether the issue is a partial blockage of the fuel flow from PRV to MU core.  3 causes come to mind:

    1. A partial blockage of the fuel line between the PRV and MU.  Of has that line been cleaned out or replaced?
    2. Has the internal condition of the flexible fuel line entering the MU deteriorated and so, when fuel attempts to flow, the line limits flow?
    3. The MU likely has the small fuel filter where the primary fuel line entering the MU.  Another possible point of flow blockage.

    Jim

  8. JohnC did you ever fit that 6:3:1 exhaust and reassess the power deliver of your motor?  I recall reading a series of interesting posts of yours some years ago where you experimented with stock and TT1200(?) manifolds.  

    Jim

     

  9. I'd welcome advice on valve guides and length.  

    I see that Rimmer offers two lengths of valve guides - 2.0625 and 2.25 inch.  In what circumstances would the different lengths be used?   

    I currently have bronze guides and I was stunned to find one of the guides was relatively loose.  I suspect I should replace all guides with steel and go back to a stock config.  

    Thanks for the advice.

  10. Folks, I have a CP camshaft with a TR5/early TR6 profile and its manufactured by County.  I bought the cam several years ago but I haven't installed it yet.  Before I do I'd like to hear from members who might have had direct experience running this County cam.   Bottom line - I don't want to install a poor quality cam...

    The identifying markings on the end face of the cam is "TRI6/150BHP" and the lobe profiles match my old TR5 cam.

    Feedback appreciated.

    Jim

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