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Jim F

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Everything posted by Jim F

  1. TRier, where are you located? Lots of good advice and expertise above. Having read the comments and given the OK pressure (108) at the MU I'm left wondering whether the issue is a partial blockage of the fuel flow from PRV to MU core. 3 causes come to mind: A partial blockage of the fuel line between the PRV and MU. Of has that line been cleaned out or replaced? Has the internal condition of the flexible fuel line entering the MU deteriorated and so, when fuel attempts to flow, the line limits flow? The MU likely has the small fuel filter where the primary fuel
  2. JohnC did you ever fit that 6:3:1 exhaust and reassess the power deliver of your motor? I recall reading a series of interesting posts of yours some years ago where you experimented with stock and TT1200(?) manifolds. Jim
  3. John, does your newman cam have a serial number or references embossed or engraved on the end? Newman offered a close to stock replacement for the TR5 PI cam and the end markings are referenced in the photo below. Jim
  4. I'd welcome advice on valve guides and length. I see that Rimmer offers two lengths of valve guides - 2.0625 and 2.25 inch. In what circumstances would the different lengths be used? I currently have bronze guides and I was stunned to find one of the guides was relatively loose. I suspect I should replace all guides with steel and go back to a stock config. Thanks for the advice.
  5. I noticed that the TR6 - https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1246401 - has some form of aluminium or grey plastic shroud around the distributor cap. Was that a common factory or aftermarket fitment? Don't recall seeing one before, (could be my failing memory...!). Jim
  6. Jim F

    Shock Absorber

    Any thoughts on how old these shocks might be? Recal-R 2548 shocks. Needless to say they're no longer on the vehicle.
  7. Peter, I called them a few minutes ago. All they could tell me is that its likely not reground, its probably chilled iron. They don't manufacturing the product, its supplied from a variety of source countries... Jim
  8. Thanks for all the feedback. Jim
  9. Folks, I have a CP camshaft with a TR5/early TR6 profile and its manufactured by County. I bought the cam several years ago but I haven't installed it yet. Before I do I'd like to hear from members who might have had direct experience running this County cam. Bottom line - I don't want to install a poor quality cam... The identifying markings on the end face of the cam is "TRI6/150BHP" and the lobe profiles match my old TR5 cam. Feedback appreciated. Jim
  10. Waldi, the meter model is PZEM-31. Manufactures somewhere in china and sold through a number of online retailers. I bought mine through Amazon and it was described as a... DC 6.5-100V 0-20A LCD Display Digital Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter Current Gauge with Built-in Shunt. It sells for about 14 Dollars, I probably bought it for about 10 bucks eighteen months ago. The built in shunt was an important factor in my purchase, lots of them come with an external shunt. A google search on "pzem-031 meter" will, I suspect, throw up a number of European retailers to pick from. Hope
  11. Good conversation on the approaches to get the right electrical supply to those fuel pumps. Just an fyi - Like many of you I fitted a direct, fused, feed to a relay in the boot and then used the original circuit to activate the relay. The solution worked well. I also found an inexpensive display that allowed me to see how voltage and current fluctuates. So when starting the motor I see a battery supplying 12+v to the relay and pump, and then once started I see 13+v and ~5amp. An inexpensive add that i fitted primarily to monitor the current the pump was drawing on the basis that mo
  12. David, I still use the original lucas pump and they need specialist repairs due to their age, (picture of pump below). I also have a sytec pump kit on my shelf, bought it years ago thinking I'd need it but I never have, (pictured below). the numbers on the pump are H P3019.1. I hope the pictures look better than they do in the upload tool! Happy to sell the sytec if you need it but I'm still wondering whether the problem lies elsewhere. Jim
  13. David, I run a PI triumph down in Texas and congratulations on taking on the PI conversion. I've run PI vehicles for decades and they've been very reliable for me and I'm sure they can be for you. I run a traditional Lucas pump so I'm less familiar with Bosch but I wouldn't imagine a Bosch pump would fail completely unless it ran dry for some period of time and the seals were damaged. Check the fuel flow from the tank - check that filters aren't clogged, no debris getting through to the pump. A partials blockage would drop the output pressure and you'd likely hear the pump 's
  14. Jim F

    Speedo Drag Cup

    Rob, thank you for the doc. The schematic shows the area that is, I think, the problem - the drag cup needle bearing. I wonder how that gets repaired.. Roger, the utube link didn't show. Could you repost? Thanks. Jim
  15. Hi all. I have a speedo problem. The needle either was slow to respond or didn't respond at all. So I remove the speedo from the dash, removed the rear casing and, when I rotate the speedo drive the drag cup isn't responding. Is there a detailed article (or better still a video!) where a speedo is dismantled and the drag cup repaired? Its a smiths - sn 6409/04. Thanks
  16. Gents, if there are any other serviceable MU available I'm interested. I need to get myself a spare I can recondition. Thanks Jim
  17. Graham, congratulations and the 6 looks great. I'm sure someone in the forum will be able to tell you the day the car left the production line and how close to the final production date. Jim
  18. Jim F

    Any ideas on this?

    Peter, thanks for the clarification. I hadn't realized the materiality of zinc ppm vs zddp and its good to know I'm running my motors on oil with the right zinc additive level. Jim
  19. Jim F

    Any ideas on this?

    Gents, good morning. In the US I also use valvoline VR1 because of what I understand to be the higher zinc levels. Valvoline state that VR1 has.. ... Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent zinc and .12 percent phosphorus (link https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq) So that would be 1300ppm. Is that adequate or is there something I'm missing? Thanks for the guidance.
  20. Iani, I'm intrigued by the issue and the solution, so please share. I had my second Lucas pump issue a couple of weeks ago, the first issue in 30 years, and I 'fixed' the problem with a couple of bags of ice wrapped around the pump!! (I live in Texas so heat can be a real problem). The Lucas setup has been extremely reliable but it's probably time to renovate the pump to the best of my ability. I've ordered repair kits for my primary pump and a backup I have on the shelf so I'll do the best I can to extend their life. (I have a Bosch kit on the shelf and I'll use it when the Lucas op
  21. Gents, I'm planning on attending the International Weekend in late June and I'm wondering where I can find details of the TR5-centric events happening that weekend. The register site does provide some details but I'm wondering where I could find a more detailed schedule of activities. Help appreciated. I do have a TR5 (and a 250) but, unfortunately, they'll be staying in the US where we relocated to in '95. Thanks for the help.
  22. thanks for the advice. I'll try it dry and see if i can get by without sealant , jim
  23. Hi, I'm looking for advice on securing door glass into the window regulator. Moss etc reference rubber strips in the regulator channel and then, I assume, there's an adhesive involved. So to the question - is the rubber really needed and what adhesive is the best to use? Thanks.
  24. Hi. I'm having a problem with a couple of horns. They work off the car, (when I wired them up to the battery), but when I fit them to the car I get a click but no sound. They are original horns and I think they may need too much current to make them work. I constructed a relay to provide a better earth but that didn't solve the problem. This is an early horn configuration so constant live. So a few questions: Anyone else experience this problem? Any recommended solutions? Anyone have a relay wiring solution that I could use? Thanks. Jim
  25. As mentioned its PB. and here's what I'm doing - I'm fitting a relay on the ground side of the horn and I'll use the redundant wire to the horn button as the low current switch circuit. Question is - how to identify the source of that wire... Should be simple - Thanks
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