Jump to content

Jim F

Registered User
  • Content Count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Cars Owned:
    TR5
    TR250

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'd welcome advice on valve guides and length. I see that Rimmer offers two lengths of valve guides - 2.0625 and 2.25 inch. In what circumstances would the different lengths be used? I currently have bronze guides and I was stunned to find one of the guides was relatively loose. I suspect I should replace all guides with steel and go back to a stock config. Thanks for the advice.
  2. I noticed that the TR6 - https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1246401 - has some form of aluminium or grey plastic shroud around the distributor cap. Was that a common factory or aftermarket fitment? Don't recall seeing one before, (could be my failing memory...!). Jim
  3. Jim F

    Shock Absorber

    Any thoughts on how old these shocks might be? Recal-R 2548 shocks. Needless to say they're no longer on the vehicle.
  4. Peter, I called them a few minutes ago. All they could tell me is that its likely not reground, its probably chilled iron. They don't manufacturing the product, its supplied from a variety of source countries... Jim
  5. Thanks for all the feedback. Jim
  6. Folks, I have a CP camshaft with a TR5/early TR6 profile and its manufactured by County. I bought the cam several years ago but I haven't installed it yet. Before I do I'd like to hear from members who might have had direct experience running this County cam. Bottom line - I don't want to install a poor quality cam... The identifying markings on the end face of the cam is "TRI6/150BHP" and the lobe profiles match my old TR5 cam. Feedback appreciated. Jim
  7. Waldi, the meter model is PZEM-31. Manufactures somewhere in china and sold through a number of online retailers. I bought mine through Amazon and it was described as a... DC 6.5-100V 0-20A LCD Display Digital Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter Current Gauge with Built-in Shunt. It sells for about 14 Dollars, I probably bought it for about 10 bucks eighteen months ago. The built in shunt was an important factor in my purchase, lots of them come with an external shunt. A google search on "pzem-031 meter" will, I suspect, throw up a number of European retailers to pick from. Hope
  8. Good conversation on the approaches to get the right electrical supply to those fuel pumps. Just an fyi - Like many of you I fitted a direct, fused, feed to a relay in the boot and then used the original circuit to activate the relay. The solution worked well. I also found an inexpensive display that allowed me to see how voltage and current fluctuates. So when starting the motor I see a battery supplying 12+v to the relay and pump, and then once started I see 13+v and ~5amp. An inexpensive add that i fitted primarily to monitor the current the pump was drawing on the basis that mo
  9. David, I still use the original lucas pump and they need specialist repairs due to their age, (picture of pump below). I also have a sytec pump kit on my shelf, bought it years ago thinking I'd need it but I never have, (pictured below). the numbers on the pump are H P3019.1. I hope the pictures look better than they do in the upload tool! Happy to sell the sytec if you need it but I'm still wondering whether the problem lies elsewhere. Jim
  10. David, I run a PI triumph down in Texas and congratulations on taking on the PI conversion. I've run PI vehicles for decades and they've been very reliable for me and I'm sure they can be for you. I run a traditional Lucas pump so I'm less familiar with Bosch but I wouldn't imagine a Bosch pump would fail completely unless it ran dry for some period of time and the seals were damaged. Check the fuel flow from the tank - check that filters aren't clogged, no debris getting through to the pump. A partials blockage would drop the output pressure and you'd likely hear the pump 's
  11. Jim F

    Speedo Drag Cup

    Rob, thank you for the doc. The schematic shows the area that is, I think, the problem - the drag cup needle bearing. I wonder how that gets repaired.. Roger, the utube link didn't show. Could you repost? Thanks. Jim
  12. Hi all. I have a speedo problem. The needle either was slow to respond or didn't respond at all. So I remove the speedo from the dash, removed the rear casing and, when I rotate the speedo drive the drag cup isn't responding. Is there a detailed article (or better still a video!) where a speedo is dismantled and the drag cup repaired? Its a smiths - sn 6409/04. Thanks
  13. Gents, if there are any other serviceable MU available I'm interested. I need to get myself a spare I can recondition. Thanks Jim
  14. Graham, congratulations and the 6 looks great. I'm sure someone in the forum will be able to tell you the day the car left the production line and how close to the final production date. Jim
  15. Jim F

    Any ideas on this?

    Peter, thanks for the clarification. I hadn't realized the materiality of zinc ppm vs zddp and its good to know I'm running my motors on oil with the right zinc additive level. Jim
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.