ChrisR-4A
-
Content Count
1,160 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by ChrisR-4A
-
-
1 hour ago, stillp said:
I had to drive mine without a bonnet catch for a while - the bonnet lifted until it was about level with the windscreen at 40-ish going forward. I didn't try it in reverse.
Pete
Hi Pete, was that the bottom of the windscreen or the top!
Chris
-
32 minutes ago, Tr4aJim said:
Andy, I’ve seen that parts diagram before, and always wondered when that hood/bonnet safety catch (2 & 11) was introduced in the Tr4a. The Stanpart catalogue does not show that part. Could it have been for the North American market only? Though my 65 live axle Tr4a doesn’t have one.
Jim
My 65 UK TR4A doesn’t have one either and I can’t see as it’s really needed. The bonnet hinges at the front so the faster you are going the more the wind pressure is keeping it shut. I suspose if you could do 20mph or more in reverse then maybe it would blow open!
Chris
-
Hi James, sounds a good plan to me. If they end up driving well I would keep them, save your money on the Stromberg rebuild you may need it for something unforeseen.
As they say, if the toast tastes good who cares who made the bread.
Chris
PS: Keep us posted with your progress, some photos would be great.
-
Both basically work by inlet vacuum causing the piston to raise letting in more fuel & air as the butterfly is opened, but whereas the SU relies on the upper piston Suction Disc in the top Suction chamber (which can wear) to make a seal the Stromberg has the diaphragm which makes a perfect seal and can easily be replaced. Both good when new but when worn the Stromburg may have the edge.
Chris
-
Hi Rich, Dave Davis 01942 891447.
Chris
-
Hi Andy, others on the forum may have more details of where to strengthen the bridge but for starters the flat triangular steel plates shown below in red fix one of the weakest points, mine cracked upwards from where the top cross bridge meets the upright pillar. I welded 4 pieces like shown over 15 years ago together with boxing in around underside of pin fixings and all has been well since.
Chris
-
Hi Ian, the pipe points vertically downwards and terminates next to a TR4 snorkel breather where the core plug was on the 4A. The end is usually clean, no signs of any significant amount of oil getting out.
Chris
-
Yes as far as I know it is, fitted by PO back in about 1979 as only one avail. It's comes in handy as aligns with my new cold air inlet for even distribution of airflow to filters.
Chris
-
1 hour ago, Bfg said:
.
Successfully viewed, purchased and collected today.
engine number is near to CT56400E so that would be a 4A from mid-1965 (..I'm guessing).
..all I need to do now is to figure out how to get it out of the back of my Chrysler Voyager.
Pete.
Re Engine number, 577 * * is July 65 so yours is probably May/June.
Chris
-
1 hour ago, Peter Cobbold said:
bumps............suggests intermittent break of circuit by the safety cut-out
+1.
To check you can bypass the cut out by using a short piece of wire with a spade terminal each end connected to the loom in its place.
Chris
-
Follow the warnings with CV shafts and don't let the SA hang down with the shock absorber removed, it can damage the CV joint. Best to remove the CV shaft first.
Also don't be too enthusiastic cleaning out the bush holes in the SA, the poly bushes do not expand as much as the rubber ones and can end up a loose fit which defeats the object of fitting them.
Chris
-
3 hours ago, John McCormack said:
I'll check. It should be Ok, I did a lot of work on the tank a few years ago.
Hi John, did you coat the inside of the tank with that sealer stuff. There have been some instances of it falling off in chunks and temporarily blocking the fuel outlet.
Chris
-
I did have an expert to guide me Ian, I looked closely at the photo of Stuart's car. Thanks Stuart.
Chris
-
On 11/25/2019 at 8:44 AM, ianc said:
Peter & Bob = nice looking can. I noticed the lack of pressure cap, then found this in the description:
Please note - an inline pressure cap should be installed along with this tank.
This means that one would need to put a T-piece in the line, and devise a mounting for a pressure cap - easier to use a secondhand can, such as that from a Triumph Dolomite. Then one trasfers the pressure cap from the radiator to the can, and buys a sealing cap (no internal pressure seal) for the radiator..
Incidentally, 0.9 bar (near 13 psi) on Dave's cap with temperature gauge is too high for a TR.
Ian Cornish
Dolomite tank from eBay £23.
A foot pump with gauge can be used to Chech it holds pressure, about 20 psi will do and this will also pop out any small dents.
Fitted after a clean up and paint.
-
In the engine comp near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap.
Chris
-
Ive had one of these for over 10 years, £12.99 at Halfrauds but probably cheaper elsewhere and can be fitted on LH bulkhead so key is in passenger footwell.
Chris
-
Pete, not too far from you are Carlow Engineering of Benfleet Essex, 5mins from the A130, they have built many TR engines 4 & 6 cyl to various specs including mine over 8 years ago. No connection just a satisfied customer.
Chris
Contact: Carlow Engineering Tony on 01268 792817
-
Most radiators in good condition should be able to withstand 13psi but this is nearly double the pressure Triumph designed the car to run at. Bearing that in mind I would question whether a 50+ year old heater matrix would be ok, also some of the hoses in particular the two heater hoses inside the car near the drivers left leg (RH drive cars) need to be in good condition and not too old. It's not only car tyres which degrade with age.
A few years ago one of our members suffered second degree burns when one of those hoses blew off and covered his legs in boiling water, I was in convoy with him at the time and his legs were not a pretty sight, which prompted him and myself to fit a small alloy cover round the hoses to contain and deflect the water in case it happens again. This was at 7 psi, at 13psi more than double the amount of water would escape and in the footwell there is nowhere to move your legs out the way you are trapped!
Chris
-
UPDATE:
I messaged Moss and they replied promptly that as assumed the cap should have had a top seal but some of their stock had them missing.
They are sending a complete new cap with seal FOC, Excellent service. The morale of this saga being, If in any doubt about an item then ask the Forum and do contact the supplier not only for your own benefit but to avoid others having the same problem.
Excellent service from Moss
Chris
-
2 hours ago, Lebro said:
You definatly need a soft seal between the rad top flange, & the rad cap body. no good just adding a seal to the sprung metal part.
I modified a TR3 cap (deeper lower seal) to have a top seal, but had to grind out the springy disc first.
I can top my rad up to the brim, & the level stays there as with perfect sealing all the expanded coolant gets sucked back in when engine cools .
Bob.
Bob, the springy disc appears on all the caps now and is made integral with the cap so when a neoprene washer is added then the cap seals as per the original design. Same cap is sold by all suppliers either with or without the seal depending on intended application.
The flexing of the disc behind the washer may even improve the seal.
Chris
-
Thanks Waldi, I've since found a photo on Moss web site which clearly shows a seal on the cap part no I bought so have contacted Moss to request a seal.
Chris
-
Hi all I recently bought a new rad cap for the 4A, Moss part no GRC112SS which has the lower siphon valve for coolant recovery systems, however this cap no longer comes with a rubber top seal under the cap a relies on the spring steel disc to make the seal. PHOTO 1. A friend also bought a cap for his TR6 at Stratford upon Avon Interclub and it didn't have a top seal either.
Question is will the cap with just the spring top seal and no rubber top seal be airtight for the coolant recovery system ( I doubt it). I have at the moment transferred the seal from my old cap but would have preferred a new one, can't find replacement seal only anywhere.
Photo 2, found on internet shows original style cap with rubber top seal on right, but this Cap does not have the spring disc like the newer caps so it obviously needs the rubber seal.
-
Is it just my imagination or is the floor in my garage getting lower?
-
2 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Pete,
not sure of the science but here are a couple of things to consider.
Constant airflow through the carb (as in one carb on 4 or 6 pots) is efficient.
Pulsing airflow (as in 2 or 3 carbs on 4 or 6 pots) is not so good.
Direct air flow through the manifolds ( as in 2 carbs on a 4 pot) is good so long as there is an element of swirl etc)
Long indirect manifold paths is less efficient.
So many pro's Con's for bot systems
Roger
That’s why most 2 into 4 inlet manifolds like the TR4 & 4A have a large Ballance tube built into the design, this equals out the vacuum from all the cylinders across the two carbs and also limits the negative effects of out of Ballance carbs and unsynced butterfly’s. Carbs like Webber’s offering one choke per cylinder only come into their own at higher revs, usually about 3500/4000 upwards. At lower revs they can actually slow the airspeed through the inlet manifold down and decrease the torque produced.
Chris
There’s always something to do.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by ChrisR-4A
Mike, check the adjustment of the operating lever first it does need a small amount of play, more than spec rather than none to operate; also did you have any additional electrical load, ie: lights on for return journey. On a 4A all the power goes through the ammeter and if the wires on the back of the ammeter are not making good contact then not enough current will pass to operate the solenoid. Also check the rubber cover is not binding, add bit of grease to solenoid shaft.
Chris