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Everything posted by ChrisR-4A

  1. Both basically work by inlet vacuum causing the piston to raise letting in more fuel & air as the butterfly is opened, but whereas the SU relies on the upper piston Suction Disc in the top Suction chamber (which can wear) to make a seal the Stromberg has the diaphragm which makes a perfect seal and can easily be replaced. Both good when new but when worn the Stromburg may have the edge. Chris
  2. Hi Rich, Dave Davis 01942 891447. Chris
  3. Hi Andy, others on the forum may have more details of where to strengthen the bridge but for starters the flat triangular steel plates shown below in red fix one of the weakest points, mine cracked upwards from where the top cross bridge meets the upright pillar. I welded 4 pieces like shown over 15 years ago together with boxing in around underside of pin fixings and all has been well since. Chris
  4. Hi Ian, the pipe points vertically downwards and terminates next to a TR4 snorkel breather where the core plug was on the 4A. The end is usually clean, no signs of any significant amount of oil getting out. Chris
  5. Yes as far as I know it is, fitted by PO back in about 1979 as only one avail. It's comes in handy as aligns with my new cold air inlet for even distribution of airflow to filters. Chris
  6. Re Engine number, 577 * * is July 65 so yours is probably May/June. Chris
  7. +1. To check you can bypass the cut out by using a short piece of wire with a spade terminal each end connected to the loom in its place. Chris
  8. Follow the warnings with CV shafts and don't let the SA hang down with the shock absorber removed, it can damage the CV joint. Best to remove the CV shaft first. Also don't be too enthusiastic cleaning out the bush holes in the SA, the poly bushes do not expand as much as the rubber ones and can end up a loose fit which defeats the object of fitting them. Chris
  9. Hi John, did you coat the inside of the tank with that sealer stuff. There have been some instances of it falling off in chunks and temporarily blocking the fuel outlet. Chris
  10. I did have an expert to guide me Ian, I looked closely at the photo of Stuart's car. Thanks Stuart. Chris
  11. Dolomite tank from eBay £23. A foot pump with gauge can be used to Chech it holds pressure, about 20 psi will do and this will also pop out any small dents. Fitted after a clean up and paint.
  12. In the engine comp near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap. Chris
  13. Ive had one of these for over 10 years, £12.99 at Halfrauds but probably cheaper elsewhere and can be fitted on LH bulkhead so key is in passenger footwell. Chris
  14. Pete, not too far from you are Carlow Engineering of Benfleet Essex, 5mins from the A130, they have built many TR engines 4 & 6 cyl to various specs including mine over 8 years ago. No connection just a satisfied customer. Chris Contact: Carlow Engineering Tony on 01268 792817
  15. Most radiators in good condition should be able to withstand 13psi but this is nearly double the pressure Triumph designed the car to run at. Bearing that in mind I would question whether a 50+ year old heater matrix would be ok, also some of the hoses in particular the two heater hoses inside the car near the drivers left leg (RH drive cars) need to be in good condition and not too old. It's not only car tyres which degrade with age. A few years ago one of our members suffered second degree burns when one of those hoses blew off and covered his legs in boiling water, I was in convoy wit
  16. UPDATE: I messaged Moss and they replied promptly that as assumed the cap should have had a top seal but some of their stock had them missing. They are sending a complete new cap with seal FOC, Excellent service. The morale of this saga being, If in any doubt about an item then ask the Forum and do contact the supplier not only for your own benefit but to avoid others having the same problem. Excellent service from Moss Chris
  17. Bob, the springy disc appears on all the caps now and is made integral with the cap so when a neoprene washer is added then the cap seals as per the original design. Same cap is sold by all suppliers either with or without the seal depending on intended application. The flexing of the disc behind the washer may even improve the seal. Chris
  18. Thanks Waldi, I've since found a photo on Moss web site which clearly shows a seal on the cap part no I bought so have contacted Moss to request a seal. Chris
  19. Hi all I recently bought a new rad cap for the 4A, Moss part no GRC112SS which has the lower siphon valve for coolant recovery systems, however this cap no longer comes with a rubber top seal under the cap a relies on the spring steel disc to make the seal. PHOTO 1. A friend also bought a cap for his TR6 at Stratford upon Avon Interclub and it didn't have a top seal either. Question is will the cap with just the spring top seal and no rubber top seal be airtight for the coolant recovery system ( I doubt it). I have at the mome
  20. Is it just my imagination or is the floor in my garage getting lower?
  21. That’s why most 2 into 4 inlet manifolds like the TR4 & 4A have a large Ballance tube built into the design, this equals out the vacuum from all the cylinders across the two carbs and also limits the negative effects of out of Ballance carbs and unsynced butterfly’s. Carbs like Webber’s offering one choke per cylinder only come into their own at higher revs, usually about 3500/4000 upwards. At lower revs they can actually slow the airspeed through the inlet manifold down and decrease the torque produced. Chris
  22. Hi Chris, great looking car, on a recently rebuilt car there’s a lot of settling and some retightening of fixings may be necessary. It’s worth checking the exhaust has not dropped where it goes through the chassis breastplate at rear and also the mounting bolts for the lever arm shock absorbers to the chassis bridge. These need to be very tight to avoid movement. Chris
  23. +1 for the machined groove to take the O ring, best aid to easier servicing since the spin on filter. No more messing about evo sticking cork gaskets on only to have them fail when you have an emergency. Chris
  24. Hi Don, the cut off green wire probably ran to an override switch which would be connected to earth so when switched on it would provide earth to the fan same as probe does. I prefer a manual override switch because it allows you to quickly test the fan motor is working and also allows you to preempt the theroswitch when you can see the temp is about to climb, like at start of a long strep hill or a traffic jam. It is also easy to wire a fan on warning light to the override switch. Simply connect a warning light with a ign on live feed and let the override switch provide the earth when on. Thi
  25. Hi Alan, firstly check how hard the underseal is and whether there are any cracks in it, cracks could mean moisture has got in, either way I would remove just a sample first to see how well it has adhered. Then it depends what you want from the car, recommissioning suggests you would like to use it soon so I wouldn’t start taking it all apart unless it’s really necessary otherwise you could be into a protracted rebuild. Chris
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