[TR4A Rebuild]

Hi all, installment one of a superb Tr4A rebuild is now available to view on the East Saxons Website.

 

Many thanks to Colin Collinwood for making it all possible.

 

Best regards Chris (East Saxons Webmaster)

[Lumenition ignition systems]

Hi Tinman, I thinkyou will find, and others will soon agree or correct me, that the vacuum system moves the distributor base plate clockwise which actually retards the ignition as vacuum increases (at low revs) so without this feature the engine is more likely to pink and if retarded to combat this then at higher revs will be under advanced and lack power. I always assumed that all road engines using carbs required a vacuum advance/retard system.

 

Best regards, Chris

[shock absorber kits]

Hi Ray, I am confused, is your 4A an IRS car, if it is then my experience with Konis may help. either reply here or email me on 'chris.russell4a@tiscali.co.uk' and I will expand.

 

Best regards and Merry Christmas

Chris

[4a front suspension and other chassis repairs]

Hi Stuart, yes my mistake it is the outriggers I am talking about. I'll check if the bolts are torqued up correctly

 

andy

 

Hi Andy there are some repairers who will replace the outriggers without lifting the body and this is done by cutting a part of the rear floor pan away to allow access to the area where the outrigger is welded to the top side of the main chassis rail. once welded in position the floorpan is bent back down and the cut is welded up.

This type of repair is structurally sound and the welded floor is hidden by the mats, it also avoids the problem of alignment which can occur when the chassis and body are completly parted. The question is do you need to remove the body for any other reason, if not then replacement in place may be the best option for a non concours "club car".

 

The choice is yours as is the cost.

 

Best regards Chris

[Wheels and tyres]

Hi Andy, best fit with no spacers are compomotive, some from Midland wheels appear ok depending on tyre size, not quite the same offset. My 4A has newish (4years) wires with 185x70x15 tyres, but if I did change I would go for the compomotives. You will sell your wires easier if you have the splined hubs to sell as well, and the short studs.

Chris

[Wheels and tyres]

The centre locking minilites are quite heavy, and be carefull of cheap bolt ons, some of these will not fit without spacers and have an inferior finish, I know of two members who have tried these and returned them, the better ones have a more rounded profile.

 

Unless your splined hubs are in very good condition I would remove them , fit new studs and buy standard bolt on minlites, you dont need to have a centrelocking spare then and you can use locking wheelnuts.

 

Chris

[Uprated suspension question]

Hi Matthew, my 4A has the Moss slightly uprated and lowered springs all round, (no spacers req).

They are a bit thicker than standard and about 1inch lower, I have the part numbers at home if you need them. I will email a photo.

 

Chris

[Rear oil seal]

Hi guys, when I purchased my 4A 10 years ago it had a bad oil leak from the bellhousing, investigations found the crankcase venting recirculating valve was in poor condition so on advice I removed it completly and vented the rocker cover direct to the atmosphere down below the carbs past the chassis.

I also fitted the crankcase vent tube as used on tr4's which also vents direct and can be fitted with engine in place after removing the core plug.

These mods stopped nearly all the leak , still a bit on some sump bolts but this has been reduced be removing bolts, cleaning with thinners and refitting with instant gasket. have done over 20000 since and car only uses about 1 pint oil a year in about 4000 miles.

 

Chris

[TR4A warmup]

Chris I had a similar problem with the strombergs on my 4A, it was a pig until the temperature reached nearly normal and never really cured it until i put twin 40s on. That cured it!! Bit extreme i grant you but it may be that your thermostat needs looking at to see if it is the original type with the shroud which will give quicker warm up.

 

Stuart.

 

 

Thanks for the info guys, I Have now cured the problem and the answer came from another Forum topic.

It was the inlet/exhaust manifold nuts not being tight enough, I tightened them this evening and had the choke full off in under a mile

 

best regards Chris

[TR4A warmup]

My 4A is standard with CD175 carbs, except for an electric fan and electronic ignition. and has run fine for the last few years. However, since removing the cylinder head it has developed a warm up running problem. It starts ok with about 1 inch of choke but after 1/2 mile under load it appears to run lean if the choke is pushed in far and will not pull cleanly without some choke for about 3-4 miles. After this it runs fine, all the power and performance it always had and carries on ok all day. I have checked and ballanced the carbs, diaphrams, and recent new fuel pump.

 

It's like it's drawing air somewhere but only when cold, any ideas?

 

Chris.