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ts27952 last won the day on December 29 2018

ts27952 had the most liked content!

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About ts27952

  • Birthday 08/06/1960

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  • Location
    Frankfurt area, Germany
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A, 1958
    gone: MX-5 (2001)
    .....and several other useful cars without much character

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  1. Hello Andy, for me - running a 3A with standard dynamo, there are some points that make this topic important: - the dynamo is specified to deliver max. 19A, ignition may need some 3-5A plus the lights (during night) with another 10-11A. Plus some Amps for the O/D. The total load will be in the range of 17A ( 15...20A ?) then, giving the dynamo a load factor of 89%. You would dare to run the engine on constant 80% load….. As long as there is no additional electrics (like a fan) this should be "as designed". - If lights are switched on, my ammeter tells me, that I am drawing current from the battery. Switching lights of results in a short period of loading - so there is "something" else. And - as drawing current from the battery, the total time of running with lights = ON may be limited. This leads to thoughts of how to reduce power consumption. What I found out is, that the characteristic of the load regulator seems to be "fold back": A high load results in reduced output voltage - so as long as this as balanced correctly, after a while the voltage from the battery is reduced and then the load current will equal the drawn current again. But is this trustworthy? As having to do with electronics, I don't trust the mechanical regulator as this is definitely a unit with limited lifetime - and probably lacking the quality of a OEM-product, since they are reproduced "somewhere". Regards and keep on discussing Johannes
  2. Christian Marx "invented" his version of the rear seal some years ago - as he sold more than just a few of these he needed some kind of professional aid in production and sales: Due to his connection to the TC racing series and Bastuck promoting this series, it was quite logical that Bastuck was a potential partner. So today you can buy the same unit from Christian Marx or Bastuck - these are identical. Regarding the Ebay -offering: It looks identical including the finish of the Aluminium parts - the only missing part is the spring. So I would be interested to know, ifit's a cheap copy or a real bargain. Regards, Johannes
  3. All over Europe you find several approaches to control the behavior of the (us) people : From one point of view I accept this as necessary means to "save the world" From another point of view I wonder, if - sometimes the cost is higher then the duties (German Maut for trucks was said to gain a much higher net income for the Gouvernement than actually resulted - nobody publishes real figures openly - but I see more trucks on the Autobahn then ever before) - some time in the future nobody will remember, why this measure was taken and "we" are left with a lot of duties, nobody needs anymore. But skipping them would result in a lot of employees without job (whos job was to perform all these tasks) . we have a lot of old taxes, that make no sense anymore.. But like all the times before, we (the people) will arrange ourselves with all these things…. like mercury-filled energy saving lamps that now, since LEDs gained more power, are just another waste of resources and pollution…. Regards, Johannes
  4. Hello, disconnect the wiring (horn/ indicators) close to the horn open the nut at the bottom of the steering box (the steering box will be drained by this action - if there is oil inside…) carefully lift the whole assembly (control head plus a thin pipe of the length of the whole steering tube) out of the car. Typically the wires have to fed into the tube, in order not to looese the bullet pins. Then can can put it on the bench and start the disassembly…. Regards, Johannes
  5. TS27952 still had the bracket for this fuel tap. At Comm TS15497 the piping was changed, but the fuel tap remained - it was deleted later (according to Bill P.s book) at an unknown Comm No. Johannes
  6. Isn't the bore (83mm … 86mm … 87mm) metric as well? Regards, Johannes
  7. In my eyes there are two routes to go - depending on HOW the displayed speed is going wrong. The position of the needle is defined by magnetic forces (rotating disc, driven by the speedo cable) and a little return spring (like a spiral). If the deviation is a constant value (always showing 20 mph too much), this could be corrected by moving the needle 20 mph "back" - carefully, If the deviation is a constant factor (always reading 25% too high) then the magnetism is too strong (less probable) or the return spring got weaker by time & age. In this case the magnetism should be reduced or the spring strengthened (exchanged): Both a specialists job. Regards, Johannes
  8. My neighbor worked at Opel's main factory in Ruesselsheim/ Germany - so a "sister" to Vauxhall" and part of the GM family.His first job was a plumber, than he changed in to the car industry for the money… they placed some pounds of lead onto the bodys in those days, closing gaps, straightening surfaces etc. So I think you can be sure that this was "from factory" Later restaurations tend to use bondo Regards, Johannes
  9. In my eyes - having restored a "wrecking yard special" - anything bolt-on may have been changed in the past or prior to selling in in order to sell a complete car. So forget about bumpers, sidescreen fasteners, high-port heads, gearbox tunnel etc - The engine was changed or replaced in the past - the original engine number should be between 22449 and maybe 23xxx. TS68xyz is definitely not original engine. - You can see the bolts for fixing areoscreens below the windscreen - they were standard until TS32833 (June 58) -> so this would be correct for an early TR3A or a real TR3 - The boot floor is "early" - The rear panel seems to be correct for a early/mid TR3 without separate indicators: Rear looks as prior to TS16473 (Feb. 57) - The wiper motor on the right side was standard until TS12567 (July 56) So in my eyes many "not easy to modify"- details suggest, that this is a real TR3. There were several upgrades/ repairs like engine swap and change of side screens… It will for sure be a full restoration - it may be worth the money if the frame is ok - the body looks quite ok. Regards Johannes
  10. Hello Bob, in my case the TUV just didn't look too close at the rear lights - and saw (as a technician) no obvious disadvantage of a bright brake light in todays traffic. So he did not want to notice - BUT this is no guarantee for the next test: Another engineer, another opinion…. Rear lights, indicators, fog lights etc are all tested for function only - on/off. I had discussion regarding may daytime running lights (with the correct E-number, stating them as road legal DRLs!): The engineer saw them as not allowed in combination with my vehicle registration as a "historic vehicle".... where the original state has to be preserved except for some (listed) safety improvements. Regarding head lights: They are tested not only for function but for the correct alignment and beam pattern (especially with modern car systems a complicated task!) - in general it is only allowed to use a lamp with the "correct" bulb. The combination of bulb & reflector has its E-number - the certification will state, that a typical 7"-WIPAC will have to be used with a classic bulb or a H4 bulb. So to get a legal solution here you would either need: - A very time (& money) consuming individual test - A certified "headlight- system" (combination of reflector & bulb) with E-number, approval etc. I can only guess, that this process is not too easy. Basically LED-headlights are allowed - many modern cars use them. But nobody (up to now) certified an "old style" 7" round lamp for the use as retrofit for old cars. As nobody reacted up to now, i can only assume that the market does not seem to be interesting for the "big players". Next problem could probably be the lack of standardization: A H4 bulb is clearly defined in respect of the light emitting area. Looking at LED-replacements I see a lot of different versions…. so you probably end up with certification of only one special LED to run it (this is what is done with modern cars too) - or you get a certification of the head light system (bulb including reflector) Regards, Johannes
  11. Hello Bob, over here on the continent the rules are complicated: - CE / RoHS is mandatory to get products into the market - RoHS tells you, that no hazardous substances are used in this product - so in case of swallowing it or dumping it somewhere ….. that has nothing to do with the function of this device - CE tells you that certain regulations are met like EMC-regulations, low-voltage directive or others - depending on the product: Again - nothing related to the real function of the device - additional rules are applied in certain applications. One is car lighting (exterior): There are rules e.g. regarding the brightness of the headlights (or rear lights) As these rules are coming out of the past, they have not been adopted to todays technique - they talk about wattage. So imagine a 21W brake light equipped with 21W LED power..... blinded by the light, as Manfred Mann used to sing. Locking at head lights, there seems to be another rule, forced by the advent of Xenon head lights and the new LED head lights: The brightness is limited to (i think) 1800 lumen AND each head light has to be tested if its usage is "correct" (not shining to high etc.... this process has to be paid by the car maker. IF Wipac/ Lucas/ Bosch would design a LED- bulb for usage in their reflectors AND if they would pay the tests, then this bulb could get an E-marking and could used. But as they don't see a large market here and as a bulb would (having the E-mark on its own) this bulb would have to be tested in a lot of reflectors as a an item for common usage, this has no high priority for these manufacturers. And for all others, sitting in China, this process is too complicated and the related market is too small….. The real problem is: You can use LEDs, you can drive with them BUIT in case of an accident, the insurance company will state that your car was not according to the regulations and they make you pay for that…. Regards, Johannes (sorry for this bad english - I hope you are able understand the meaning) (the local TUV = your MOT did accept my LED rear lights …. they saw the real improvement in visibility)
  12. @ Inge: I think that Bob knows that - that's the way to fix the outer part of the cover. But what to to with the inner part? @ Bob: As far as I know, there should be a small pocket in the inner lower corner, this is intended to go over the foremost part of the (folded) hood sticks. So this should fix these corners. I could imagine, that the main portion in the rear is just wrapped around the hood sticks and the fix by the weight of the sticks, pressed between hood stick and rear panel. Regards, Johannes
  13. Rob: even then you need some pressure (even a milli-psi is pressure). And just lifting the oil from sump to head needs some pressure too You are right: But keep in mind that any kind of pipe or passage is a restriction of flow - and high flow until the main bearing with direct exit into the sump doesn't help you with lubricating the big ends or the rockers Regards, Johannes
  14. Just my 2 Cents: - Thrust washer in a 4-pot consist of 2 half-circles each - Impact on oil pressure - why? - there is just one set of thrust washers as this bearing is designed as the one taking the load. If there would be more than one , there would always be only one "working": So keep it simple (and cheap) and skip the others….. - pressure is necessary to make a fluid flow. So without pressure: No flow at all. - The pressure is measured in the oil gallery - this pressure is dependant from the oil pump, setting of pressure restrictor AND the flow resistance of the oil channels after the measuring point. - first (and main?) factor is the main bearings. Worn bearings loose as t lot of oil -> thus the oil pressure is reduced. - The flow through the big end bearings depends on the flow through the main bearings: So worn main bearings reduce flow in the big end bearings - the oil flow into the head depends (4-pot) on the rear main bearing: Worn bearing -> less oil in the head Rebuilding my engine gave me much higher oil pressure with much more oil in the head - so (TR3 with "open" oil cap) so I lost oil by dripping out of the oil cap Regards, Johannes (Sorry for my english …)
  15. Regarding the long black bars: Could it be radiator support, but for a TR4 (using a similar radiator) or a TR4A (using a wider radiator)? For a TR4 I would expect longer supporting struts than for a TR3/A/B as the track is wider and the inner wing is different) Johannes
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