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johncfull

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    Victoria, Australia
  1. johncfull

    Trunnion broke!

    These shots are from 1972. Trunnion let go at 70 mph, ended up off the road up an embankment. Fortunately it was the left side otherwise we might have gone into the oncoming traffic. John
  2. Guy Very much enjoyed your website and the quality of your work. Good luck and continue with the updates please. Regards John
  3. Hi John Yes for sure the extinguisher is an essential item. I think mine won't be needed for a while yet though. Progress is slow but still hope to have the body and chassis finished this year. Trust your project is coming along ok ? John
  4. Just put some photos on photobucket. Maybe of interest if this works. John http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee231/m...mview=slideshow
  5. Hi Mark You can certainly do all of the above with the engine in. I have done all these in the last 12 months myself. Make sure you have the car up high enough (and secure) because you will spend a fair bit of time on your back underneath. There is plenty of good info in previous posts re thrust washers and how to change and measure end float. I started by replacing the old washers with two standard ones and then measuring the end float to see what I needed to get within the limits. Used a dial indicator on the crank to measure end float. Make sure the thicker washer is at the rear as this cops all the wear when the crank moves forward as you press the clutch in,also grooves facing out. Check this site, http://britishcarweek.org/tr6.html http://britishcarweek.org/tr6_1.html Be careful with the sump bolts at the front of the engine or you will strip the thread in the sealing block. If you're going to replace the timing cover gasket and seal you might as well also replace the timing chain and tensioner. Follow the details in the Brown Bible for this. I found it easier to do with radiator and grille removed. Be careful with the quality of the parts obtainable here in Victoria ! PM me if you need more info on this. I ended up getting the bits from Greg Tunstall in Qld,worth talking to Steve up there first too. Be aware that you may do all of this and still have oil leaks. Good luck. John
  6. Gaz Just a couple of points regarding Bosch pumps. They are designed to push, not suck. So really need to have the fuel fed either by using a primer pump, or by mounting the pump as low as possible and direct feeding by a bigger O/L from the tank via an inline filter. Hi pressure filter on the O/L side. Also needs to have max voltage at the pump i.e use a relay and heavier wire from the battery. Pumping at 110 psi means that the Bosch pump will be operating near it's max cpacity and needs all the help you can provide. I have seen many setups where the pump is mounted in the original Lucas position and dragging fuel thru the old cartridge filter. Still seems to work reasonably, but obviously not as efficiently as possible and must surely reduce the pump life. I think the ideal system is to use a primer pump via a swirl pot feeding the Bosch pump. Also have a look at Malcolm at Prestige's setup. Regards John
  7. johncfull

    Trunnion Play

    Hi Stuart Keep in mind this was 36 years ago. At the time I used to make the return trip between Melbourne & Adelaide (7 hrs each way) nearly every week,. so the poor old TR4a copped a fair hammering trying to break the land speed record. I didn't even know what a trunnion was let alone that they needed lubrication ! The only lubrication I knew about was how many cans of Fosters I needed for the return trip. Anyway the LHS vertical link pulled itself out of the trunnion and off we went . Would have needed all your skills to repair. John
  8. johncfull

    Trunnion Play

    Any discussion re trunnions & lubrication always reminds me of 1972 , when due to youthfull ignorance I managed make this mess. Take care with your trunnions. John F
  9. These are shots of a twisted TA . Appears to have been shunted from the rear. No cracks apparent , but very bent. I rmember reading somewhere that the TA's were changed during production. Is this true ? I have a TR5 & TR6 plus 4 extra TA's and I can't see any diiference in any of them besides the dates. John F
  10. Correct. All ammeters use a shunt. A shunt is basically a resistor mounted in parrallel with the meter. e.g If a meter is rated at 1 amp FSD (full scale deflection) and you have 60 amp source to measure you will need a shunt (resistor) that will take 59 amps. The formula is Resistance = Volts/Amps. So by varying the size (resistance ) of the shunt you can use the same meter to read different currents. As in a multimeter when you switch to a different current scale. Regards John
  11. Thanks for the timely advice John. So far so good. Very messy and slow progress Regards John
  12. Thanks David. I still can't believe that I really own this car. Good luck with your restoration. Regards John
  13. Thanks for all the replies and advice. Mark ,I don't think I could ever match your efforts ,well done. Guy, always enjoy reading your posts and admire your royal blue TR. Chris, followed your pre Malvern saga with great interest - this will definately be a body off restoration as you suggest. Allan, have started collecting bits already - thanks. Mike, dust covers to protect me !. FYI Car was nut and bolt restored in mid 90's with little use since completion. Damage as result of fuel leak at MU. Insurance settlement,then offered for sale . Will keep you posted on progress. From what I can see so far it must have been a cracker ! John
  14. Thought you guys might be interested in some shots of my recent purchase. (if I can work out how to attach the photos) To own a TR5 has been a lifetime ambition. Only positive comments please - I need support. John
  15. Brian A possible cause for the chassis and exhaust being too close to the road when the body looks ok could be the chassis itself. If the chassis has been repaired in the cruciform area it's possible that the rear section could be lower than it should. My TR6 has this problem - easy to see on a TR6, if you look at the chassis legs from the rear you should only see about 1/4"'below the rear valance. More than 1/2" would be suspect. You can also have a look at the rear body to chassis spacers to see if extras have been added to get the right gaps. Hopefully this is not your problem, but worth checking that the chassis is true first. Regards John
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