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About richardix

  • Birthday 10/18/1975

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  1. I have a litte bit the same problem. when the motor is on temperature, the oil pressure meter indicaties 70 psi at 2200 rpm. When I drive for a while 70 mph (at 3000 rpm) the oil pressure drops to 50-60 psi. Driving 60 mph and the pressure meter indicates 70 psi. So fluctuating and somewhere between 2700 and 3000 rpm a dip in the pressure. So I used the screw to increase the pressure. that helpen nothing. Just a few psi when the engine was cold. so hopefully you have more ideas regards richard
  2. Dear TR-friends, I have a TR4A car, but the hood frame is a TR6 one. Although the front header rail is originally a TR4A frame (with the chrome hinges). But I have the gummi seals at the sides of the frame. My question is, do I have to fit a TR6 hood, or a TR4A hood ? Or isn't there any difference ? thanks for your help. kind regards, Richard
  3. I have measured my windows too. I have two kind of windows and put on each other ( see pictures) complying with the pdf drawing from the Technicalities (windows 1) a difference of 13 mm at the bottom edge. Also attached a sketch with the dimensions. But now I am a little bit confused. When putting both windows on each other, with the bottom edge (where it will fit the window regulator), Window 1 will be tilted to the front and according to other postings, be a TR6 window. Although, if you look at the dimensions and the clear pictures of Mr. Littlejim, Window 1 should be the TR4 window.
  4. Hi, This discussion has also been very useful for me, because I have the same problem. My TR4(A) car with ethe wrong door glasses. Only, I am a little bit confused, because it is not completely clear which one is the TR4 and which one is the TR6 window (and my supplier of the door glass told me the opposite of your information). If I understand it correct, the window with the almost horizontal bottom of the glass is the TR6 window and the glass with the bottom under an angle (in the PDF picture the dashed line) is an TR4(A) window. Thank you for your help. kind regards, Richard
  5. Hi, the voltage regulator consists of a bi-metal. Normally it is closed and 14 Volts (The battery voltage) is on the output. The bi-metal warms up and opens, so the output voltage drops to 0 Volts. This means that a block wave exists between 14 Volts and 0 Volts with an average of 10 volts. Because the temperature gauge and fuel gauge are relatively slow in reacting on a difference in voltage, you will not see it moving. But at low engine speeds or when equipment as a fan turns on, the average voltage can drop over the voltage regulator and can result in gauge `movement`. Of coarse I
  6. Hi, Just have renewed my steering rack, because mine had play between the outer tube and inner steering rod. Checked prices for the complete unit and they vary to a max of 250 pounds. Bought it at TR shop London for 99 Pounds. Works fine, although the first time, the rack-pignon was tightened too much which resulted in stiff steering. The new rack looks a little different from the original one. It is maintenance free, according to the shop and has no possibility to fit the original grease nipple. Don't know what the life time is, but it works fine till now. kind regards, Richard
  7. In the mean time I had some contact with Tilton Engineering, who fabricates brake master cylinders. According to them the smallest bore is 0,625 inch (or 15,9 mm). I did some calculations by my own (and on advice of Tilton) and a 0,7 inch single brake master is equal to two brake master cylinders of 0,5 inch. This means that for the same pedal force and feeling in the original configuration, there is no brake master cylinder available. On the internet I read that a conversion to 0,625 inch is working fine. Another possibility (this pure theoretically I did not try this) is to change the r
  8. Hello, I have a TR4A and I'm thinking of upgrading the single brake circuit for safety reasons. Searching the internet I found that Revington has an upgrade set, but with two single brake cylinders. Tilton sells dual circuit brakes also, but it is not clear to me if these are suitable for a TR4. Ofcoarse an option is exchanging the complete pedalbox with a TR6 model. I would like to ask if anyone has experience with upgrading the single circuit and how to carry this out. Thank you in advance, kind regards, Richard
  9. Hello, I am living in the Netherlands where LPG is 3 times cheaper than petrol. And because a tr6 uses much petrol, I'm thinking of making it possible to drive on LPG. Has anyone experiences with this ? I think it should be possible, but I am also curious where to put the lpg tank. Thanks, greetz, Richard
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