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Richardtr3a

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Everything posted by Richardtr3a

  1. Good luck Waldi Richard & B
  2. A birthday is an important day, Well Done Bob Richard & B
  3. I did add to the Regulator problems in a recent post on here. The best end to years of worry and problems was a solid state regulator from Classic Dynamo and Regulator. I ordered a 12v, positive earth , 22 Amp version and this has ended the problems with the RB106 which needed regular tuning. Some of the new Regulators are made in the Far East and use second hand copper to reduce the cost. This makes problems requiring servicing. My Solid State unit is reliable just like a modern car. Good luck Richard & B
  4. Thanks for the advice. The relay does click but there is no current to the solenoid. Can anyone give me a link to a real relay with a life. I need some instructions on fitting as well. Thanks Ralph what relay am I looking for ? Shall I contact our main suppliers ?? I di very well with a solid state regulator which has stopped my regulator problems for years. There must be an electrical company , in East Sussex, who supply quality parts. I have a special mechanical friend coming this week to look at it all and would like the relay to be here when he comes later in the week. A sun
  5. I have made some progress but I still need help. The rattle noise is something moving according to the engine revs. It is not the rev. counter. Is there a part in the gearbox/overdirve which could be making a minor noise? or is this just normal. Maybe I should stop worrying ?? The gearbox has oil up to the top mark on the dipstick. The o/d relay has power from the ignition but all other contacts do not show any life. The two switches on the gearbox are also not showing any life. When you select the overdrive there is a click which does seem to be coming from this relay. So it lo
  6. I spent years trying to make the RB106 work well. I bought a conversion which fitted in th existing case but it could not cope with with the lights ,heater, and mobile phone charger because it was too low amps. I upgraded to one full new unit ADR 106 22 amps from Classic Dynamo and Regulators. Use the link supplied by Lebro on this forum. It has made a huge difference and I wish that I had done it earlier. It did cost a bit but it was well worth it and altered the car for me. Go for it, Richard & B
  7. I have managed to remove the gear box tunnel after the whole afternoon undoing the bolts. They are hard to reach even with a special small socket and handle. All the fixings are saved in two small plastic bags. The anti rattle spring looked to be in good condition but I will strip it down tomorrow The dip switch was difficult to release and I remember it being an awkward fix last time. So I drove for about one mile , down a country lane, with no cover. There are two faults The rattle noise is high pitched and related to the engine revs. Tomorrow I will disconnect the rev counter
  8. Very helpful advice. I am out in the garage this afternoon. Thanks Richard & B
  9. Thanks for the replies. When I change gear there is a problem with the lever. As it is slid forward it feels as if there is some loose fitting on the end. It does select the gears and it drives well. The annoying 'rattle" is noticeable in all gears and third mostly. I am not using it much while I wait for some home repairs ??? The gearbox was overhauled by Peter Cox, and the overdrive by Overdrive Repair Services. Richard & B
  10. My gear box has a problem. When I select any gear the lever feels as if there was something loose in the selectors. I am now nervous about driving on the road. This is awkward because my son has borrowed my VW and I am now stuck at home. My overdrive is still not selecting. Things could be worse !! I am looking at a possible company near forum member LeBro for a repair. If there was a good specialist near Lewes in Sussex it would be more convenient. I am very pleased with the solid state RB106 and the car starts very well, without hand priming. Can these two be connected ???
  11. We need a new woodburner for the cold evenings. The current one has a removable heat deflector plate over the logs and the smoke has to travel around the plate and go up the chimney. But this is not always working and smoke will escape into the room and can be a slight sting in your eyes. So we are researching a good quality log fire with a proper working chimney connection. It will burn five or six logs over three hours and warm the room. This unfortunately means that you are warm enough for the news at ten, We have to give up with the usual news which seems quite depressing and find s
  12. I have some other parts in my garage store. The frame for the hood is rusty finish and complete with webbing and webbing attachment plates. There are also two scissor jacks in reasonable condition with one long handle. I am reluctant to take these parts to the tip. So I need them collected from the Lewes area in East Sussex. A handshake would be good payment. Please let me know soon. Thanks Richard & B
  13. I am trying to clear out my garage. I understand that all members have TR Action but my collection has the oldest one No. 135 Dec96/Jan 97 and there are approximately 64. It seems to be a shame to send them to recycling so I am putting them here for for collection free from the Lewes area of East Sussex. I am hoping that a someone will take them. Thanks Richard & B
  14. My steering was overhauled by an engineering company and is now tight when parking or reversing. While driving it is firm but easier to use. I am very disappointed after spending a large amount. It is supposed to be guaranteed but I have not made any progress with the company. How much does a new column cost at Revingtons. I assume that it will work without any adjustment ?? Thanks Richard & B
  15. I have fitted new fibre washers , AUC 2141 , and even using a ring spanner there was still a small leak on the front carb. This would stop me leaving the garden in the TR3a So last night I found some Red Hermetite on a back shelf, and used small amounts on all metal faces and both sides of the fibre washers, and my hands !!. Today I tried a local test run to my local Esso station. It was all dry and the rear carb banjo was dry ever since fitting new washers. So if I try to tighten the front carb Banjo any further I will be breaking the existing seal and maybe allow fuel to escape when
  16. Thanks for the advice. I will try the AUC 2141 fitted dry later on today or tomorrow if it rains. The new flexible was supplied by Moss. I am sure that R&D were satisfied with the fitting. If it leaks I will be asking for more advice on here. The Hylomar is back on a shelf inthe garage. Thanks Richard & B
  17. Today I took the TR to the local shop for some milk and a trial run before the weekend club meeting I found a small puddle in the drive and there was some colours floating on it. I thought that it must be an oil drip under the front of the TR3A. I parked the car in the garage and went to adjust the tickeover. It had gone to 1200 and was easily adjusted down. While I was doing this I noticed a serious leak from both the new banjo connections on the new flexible. They have fibre washers and I found some copper ones but they will only pass over the threaded part and not over the main part
  18. I Rob, Thanks for the link. I have checked out my SU spares and do not have any cupped steel washers part 116 AUC1337. If I fitted a cupped steel washer this would presumably allow the chamfered bolt to fit the rubber shouldered grommets. Why is the bolt this unusual shape ?? I have also been advised to use Viton seals. Where can I find them ? Thanks for your help Richard & B
  19. This afternoon I removed the float chamber and checked the seals. In my box I had three pairs of stepped black rubber washers with a metal washer with each set. I was pleased to be able to remove the bolt and check the seals. The reason that I have the new stepped washers, in stock, is because my float chamber fixing bolt has the chamfered shoulder. I then remembered that when I last fitted the seals the shouldered bolt will not allow the stepped seals to fit over the shoulder. last time I made some seals out of washers and Wellseal which have lasted for a few years. This time I did the
  20. Thanks for the help and advice. This morning I had a specialist wiring man who spent the morning dealing with the problems and left it 100 %. It is very relaxing to have an honest expert working on the car. Richard & B
  21. I found a number saved on my phone for Classic Car Electrics. I thought that it was the same man who came out last time. It was a few years ago when I removed the front panel and the first repair man had repaired the wiring by running a new feed from the LHS headlamp over to the RHS cluster of connections. But today it was a new friend. He came out at 9.30 and spent the whole morning replacing rusty connections and making new earth wires. I had a wiring diagram but he never looked at it. His van had a number of shelves in the back with many reels of cable. After two and a half hours and tw
  22. Thanks Ian. If the driveway goes dry overnight I will try your plan tomorrow. It does sound hopeful Richard & B
  23. Last year I sent my steering column to a special engineering business. They were recommended as a high quality company. The column was overhauled at some cost and now has instructions not to alter the adjustment. It has taken over nine months to fit it in the TR. Luckily I had a reasonable one in the car for the last ten years It works well while driving but the steering wheel is not quite horizontal, which is probably me and a friend fitting issue. But when parking or trying a three point turn the steering is much too firm. I have tried a few miles now and it is not improving. The overh
  24. Thanks for the advice Rob. I have found a company who will service my K2 and I will take it in to them. I hope to get a quote first ?? Richard & B
  25. Thanks Filter check this afternoon, Richard & B
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