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NickKerfoot

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    117
  • Joined

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About NickKerfoot

  • Birthday 01/12/1968

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    nickkerfoot@hotmail.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sunny Abu Dhabi
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4, CT86***

Recent Profile Visitors

380 profile views
  1. With ignition switched off, only side/headlights and the horn will work.
  2. + another, Hamish.... Much of the forum's recent history seems to have been at the behest of a vocal minority..... just my view... NK
  3. My TR4 does this too! There's also a well preserved mosquito visible inside the guage that must have got in through one of the illumination slots.... it's been there since 1985 :-)
  4. Something the greater (lesser?) membership aren't going to find out about, I suspect.....
  5. I have one of there regulators on my S1 Land Rover. The ignition light once out, stays out - you don't seen to get the normal dull glow or flicker at very low engine rpms. Completely reliable over the 3 years it's been fitted...
  6. Hi Snitootall, Is there any chance you could post a picture of where the studs are fitted to the floor of the car? Doing this at the moment on my 4... Without the seat arrangement, the rear vertical panel locates its 4 eyelets over the lift-the-dot posts, and the whole lot is held down by 4 lift dot fasteners in the rear carpet.. Nick
  7. I doubt you'd get it to look right with out the TR4 hinge set....
  8. Finding the metal glove box lid and the ascociated hinges may prove an expensive challenge too.....
  9. I never did get the rationale behind the Moss prices for occasional rear seats.... Skinners will do the cover & foam for less than half the price, which makes it a very expensive piece of ply.... good luck with the sale... fortunately I need a blue one lol! best regards...
  10. Does the HEA suffix signify an engine fitted with an autobox? Had an idea the crankshafts were different..... just a thought... may be wrong.... nick
  11. Hi! CT 14457 would suggest a late 1962 built car. The box will be a 3 synchro version as well... has the area where the starter motor protrudes into the gearbox been modified? (A hole cut for the starter bendix to poke through...). Does it have an overdrive fitted? The car would most likely be +ve earth from new...( I’ll stand corrected here lol). I suggest wire it up to your preference.... there’s no difference in the looms, just the polarity of the dynamo, and the orientation of the ammeter connections... and any radio or aftermarket accessories that maybe polarity sensitive o
  12. The backstreet method for these was to mark the POSITION of the nut on the pinion shaft before loosening it. Then do it up until your marks re-align.... some of these difs had a collapsible spacer to adjust the gear mesh, and the torque was applied to set this. Re-application of torque may collapse the spacer more, and alter the mesh of the CW& pinion. FWIW, I used this method on my '4 ten years ago, and it's still OK with many miles since...
  13. I took mine apart more than a few years ago now and recall finding 4 shallow spotwelds as well as the folded over edge. Try to open the fold as little as you can get away with as the action will tend to reduce the curve of the lid and it will stand proud at the lower corners...
  14. Rog, Will be home over the weekend.... will get the tape measure out then! Regards Nick
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