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jerrytr5

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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. Run some electrical wire under the screen rubber to hold it away from the frame so you can mask the rubber and get paint under the edge. When you remove the wire the rubber will cover the new painted edge. Otherwise it could look a bit of a mess. Jerry
  2. No, that's not right. Unlikely to be the rack. More likely the column sliding in the spline (even though it seems tight), or moving in the adjuster. Get someone to heave on the wheel while you inspect all the joints. In my case it was the top spline where the pinch bolt was not pinching enough - there is a design problem (although the 4A might be different here). You should not use any spacer washers. The inner column can be adjusted for length. Jerry
  3. 10% is about average I would guess. When my efi converted engine was set up on the rollers for the rev limiter, that was about 10% out. Jerry
  4. That seems to have everyone stumped Nick. I guess they are so simple that if the pulley is turning, then it must be pumping. You could take it off and check that the impellor is still attached and hasn't corroded away. But if the fan cuts in and the sensor is in the bottom of the rad, then clearly it's not cold. Jerry
  5. I've never had to bed in brakes over an extended period. I'd say your pads and/or discs are suspect material. Following the process here for 'Street Pad' should be perfectly adequate. https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to Jerry
  6. Hi Rob, I'm just down the road in Chesham. Happy to pop over & give you a hand, but will have to be next week. The frame needs to be fitted to the car - presume it is? You need some nylon cord about 4mm dia, long enough to go all round the rubber, and some lubricant. IM me if I can help. Jerry
  7. Sounds like one of the inhibitor switches (on top of gearbox) stuck on. As you know, don't reverse the vehicle. You're going to have to remove the gearbox tunnel to get to the switches & see what's what. You'll also probably want to drain the gearbox oil and check the filter for foreign bodies. Not doing anything else today are you? Jerry
  8. I'll hang my hat on the 'More trouble than they're worth' peg as they are a pain in the neck when you want to remove or install the driveshaft, being too big to go through the trailing arm. Jerry
  9. Slotted / x drilled discs from Revington & Hawk HPS pads (Cambridge motorsport) with 5.1 fluid are a good combination. The pads work from cold but have a high temp range. You won't need any more on the road and unlikely to get fade on track days. Jerry
  10. In my experience the weld at the top of the pin is always broken so you need to get at the top of the diff mount either by removing the body or cutting an access through the floor. Sorry, that's just the way it is. Jerry
  11. As others have said, nothing wrong with the standard system as long as the cross shaft taper pin a) fits properly & b) is supplemented with a secondary bolt. Jerry
  12. Fit a rear anti-roll bar. Koni all round but measure up the rear conversion brackets to avoid IRS failure. You may need thicker front ARB to compensate for rear. Springs are a minefield. You will probably need to try several before you get right height and handling. With the ARB you can keep the spring rate soft to handle everyday obstacles like pot holes & ramps. Jerry
  13. Welcome to the Forum Martyn. First thing you need to do is join the TR Register. £400 is an awful lot for a saloon engine of unknown ancestry, even it was fully dressed in PI kit. What is wrong with your engine? Jerry
  14. There's a similar thread on the TR4A forum with pictures - you guys should get together !! Jerry
  15. I wouldn't say it was a mess. Nothing wrong with the nylon bushes and using plated bolts and copperslip along with a bit of maintenance usually resolves the corrosion issues. A stainless sleeve would be an improvement, but I don't know of any suppliers. As this thread identifies, the replacement poly bushes cause the suspension to lock up which can only contribute to something breaking or bending. I pointed this out to the suppliers several years ago when I returned them. Polybushes are fine almost everywhere else, just not in the trunnions where the original nylon is perfectly serviceable. The bolt should not move with the trunnion as that would cause wear and oval holes in the wishbone. The bolt clamps the wishbone ends together using the sleeve as a spacer making it all rigid. Jerry
  16. Hi Jeroen, You do not say why you need to replace all the light units. I would always attempt to use the originals first - in my experience repro's are often not the best option and could give you more work and not look as good or fit as well as a restored original. Jerry
  17. If you are certain it is not the diff mounts, check diff front mounting plate - it can fracture. Having the diff pins reinforced does not mean they will not break, and it's really difficult to see without dropping the diff. jerry
  18. Don't bother sourcing the bracket 77 - it doesn't need it and is the biggest pain in the neck. I left mine off in 1998 and the plenum hasn't fallen off yet. Jerry.
  19. Crikey that's an old post. Of course it fits, I used a TR6 to mould it from. However wings do vary so it will need adjusting. Assuming Neil is still supplying the same rubber seal you will need to adjust the liner so that you have sufficient clearance. About 5 - 8mm should do it, but check first as the seal may have changed over the years. The bits with tight curvature are tricky, but you could always fill in any gaps with silicone. Jerry
  20. Surely not enamel. More like a bit of bacofoil with letraset. The MK 2 saloons had a similar style badge on the boot (different insert, obviously). Jerry.
  21. I've found drilled solid discs from Revington (the Aussie ones) along with Hawk HPS pads and standard calipers to be very good for road and track day use. The brake scoops from Ractorations aid cooling but they are not shown on the website (you might have to ask - they cover the caliper, incorporate a scoop and turn with the wheel). I wasn't impressed with EBC pads, and Mintex 1144 do not work from cold, that 0.5 - 1 second before reaching temperature covers quite a few metres. Jerry
  22. I only met Alec a few times but like many have benefited from his huge knowledge and uncompromising style. He will be very much missed and the Register is poorer for his passing. My thoughts are with you, Diane and your family. Jerry
  23. You shouldn't be overheating with the standard engine driven fan anyway. Get your rad re-cored first, and flush the cooling system. Don't treat the symptoms without dealing with the cause. Jerry
  24. When SORN first arrived (1998) it was a requirement to re-sorn every year. This was changed so that you only need to SORN once, see https://www.gov.uk/sorn-statutory-off-road-notification "You don’t need to renew a SORN". However, SORN is not transferrable, so a new owner of a vehicle on SORN needs to re-SORN in their own name. Jerry
  25. Pretty much as above. Run a stringline down each side at wheel centre height. Make sure they are parallel. Measure from the wheel rim to the string line at points 180 deg apart in line with the string and give yourself 2mm toe in each side. Surprisingly accurate, certainly good enough. Jerry
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