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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. I just had a go at these. Impossible to remove the flange. Best bet is to use a lathe to turn off the shoulder and remove the bearing the 'wrong' way. Described far better here: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-38/TR6-38.html Jerry
  2. Are we talking ARB links or damper links on this thread? Interesting point about ARB from Drewmotty. Is the ARB likely to 'walk' through the clamps? What would you use to stop it - jubilee clip each side? Having just fitted the CDD ARB links to a Spitfire I hadn't considered it wandering. Jerry
  3. Central heating Immersion heater element fitting ?
  4. If they are not exactly the correct length you risk punching up through the roof when you tighten them. I changed mine for fixed studs in the roof - also makes it easier to fit. Jerry
  5. No such thing as a daft question. You probably could do all those things but why would you when they are so easy to remove? Far easier and quicker to unbolt and do on the bench particularly if you wanted to replace the oil which would involve not only draining but working the arm through it's range during refill. Jerry.
  6. jerrytr5

    belt trouble

    That's not what NTC is saying. Either the engine/gearbox mounts are shot or the power unit was installed incorrectly. It is not normally a problem to change the belt. Check the mounts and replace as required, then move the engine/gearbox assembly to the correct position. Jerry
  7. As Ed suggested spin them on the car and use a dial indicator. If you don't have a dial indicator just clamp a screwdriver to a solid axle stand so it is a gnat's crotchet off the rim and spin the wheel. You can measure any wobble with feeler gauges. Select a front wheel as it will be easier to spin, and make sure your pointer (screwdriver) cannot move. Jerry
  8. Yes, the principle is that the braking G force (or sudden stop due to an immovable object) would be far higher than anything your power unit can muster. Also means you can mount your ski rack with the skis over the roof when posing. Jerry
  9. Tuck underneath. It helps to seal off the weather by compressing as you tighten the bolts. Jerry
  10. Very nice Panch. I'm not a great fan of silver and I like to see a plank for a dash, but that's not the point. It's your car and you've done a great job. Has anyone told you the luggage rack 'should' be the other way round (cue much discussion and thread creep) ! Jerry
  11. There is an issue with some versions not sealing to the block correctly. I understand later designs have a sprung centre to cater for differences with the engine block, but I thought that was to resolve external leaks rather than pressure issues. I'm sure somebody can elaborate who has seen the different versions. Jerry
  12. I can't comment on live axles or full race spec., I only do the occasional track day. On a road IRS TR a rear ARB is the most cost effective handling improvement you will make. Jerry
  13. Whichever seal is leaking, you are probably best taking the diff out. Nigel's answer referred to the Propshaft or pinion, but you may be referring to the driveshafts which are known as output shafts. On a Spitfire the diff oil seals are relatively easy to replace. Jerry
  14. There is usually a gentleman at the International and other autojumbles who has some wide interior mirrors. His name escapes me (apologies) but he's an ex-Triumph works mechanic and usually has his motorhome and a small but useful selection of parts for sale. I can't remember what they are from, but he said they used them on the works cars. Uses the same ball joint fixing so can be swapped to existing swan-neck. Jerry
  15. Fuel ? Happened to me about ten years ago. Broke a rocker too. Theory is that the fuel companies were experimenting with formulations (or got it wrong) and it caused valves to bind. There was a lot of anecdotal chatter around at the time but no evidence. As a precaution I reamed the valve guides. It never happened again. Jerry
  16. There you go Rob. The good thing about a forum is you get to hear all sides of an argument and you can make your own decision. The bad thing is that off the cuff remarks are sometimes taken literally, perhaps I should not have written 'working' but rather 'efficient', but then I don't suppose 'fluid of doom' is a literal comment either. I had silicone in a Spitfire for many years without issue. Another Spitfire with silicone suffered from locking brakes, which may or may not have been due to the fluid/rubber seal compatibility. Both were fitted with virgin braking components from scratch. Your original post suggested that you wanted to avoid potential problems, and therefore I go back to my first post. I suggest you use Dot 5.1. Chin, chin, Jerry
  17. In my experience the drain taps are just a potential fail point. Replace both with blanking plugs and copper washers. The radiator one is pointless as you just need to release the bottom hose, the engine one will get blocked and you'll have to remove it anyway. Jerry
  18. Rob, you haven't said what brake fluid you were previously using. Don't get confused with Dot 5 which is silicone and many on here would not recommend. Dot 5.1 is conventional, but higher boiling point than Dot 3 or 4 (come to think of it, not sure I've come across Dot 4 in the UK). I've used both Dot 5 (silicone) and 5.1. I stick to Dot 5.1 and risk the paintwork. Do you want working brakes or shiny paint? Jerry
  19. What was in it before? I suggest you use Dot 5.1 Jerry
  20. I have an underslung rear ARB too and initially it did ground on fast bumpy roads. I added a 9mm spring spacer & welded on some skid plates to protect the mounting. It rarely touches now. You could consider cutting a slot in the chassis and mounting the ARB higher. Jerry
  21. jerrytr5

    TR5 or 250

    I've PM'd him so he might see that. Jerry
  22. jerrytr5

    Summer tyres

    Toyo CF2 suit the car, very good wet or dry. Jerry
  23. Can you get a half nut on between the stay and the bonnet to clamp the stud in place? Jerry
  24. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you'd need a substantial jig to hold it in place while wrestling with it - something like a car would be perfect. Fit the frame to the car first - you can adjust it later. Jerry
  25. I think it probably directs the water down the A post, otherwise it would drip on to your knee. Jerry
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