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jerrytr5

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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. Ron, I'm afraid I don't know. I sent away the laygear and it came back all done with bearings fitted. I assume all the specialists use the same method - I happened to use Racetorations on this occasion. Jerry
  2. Peter, when you get your new pump pay a bit extra and get the matched components. Also, very carefully check the components for tolerance using feeler guages and adjust the end float. It is some time since I've done this but it is described in the workshop manual and involves a sheet of glass and grinding paste. Jerry
  3. Another update due just in case anyone else follows this route. Have driven 1000 miles since putting the box back together and everything OK apart from a small oil leak from the O/D area - not sure where yet. Changed oil and cleaned filters after 500 miles and nothing big fell out. I can confirm that the B&B clutch works well. Slightly heavier than the previous Laycock. As mentioned before the laygear now has two needle rollers at the rear, hardened shaft and standard thrusts. I had to replace the constant pinion gear on the layshaft as its thrust face was worn. Be careful if you do this as the angle of the teeth varies between boxes. I am told that there are at least 3 variations and if you get the wrong one (as I did at first) it won't mesh with the other gears. The steel 2nd gear bearing that I had planned to fit did not make it into the box. After the comment by Marvmul I checked this very carefully and found that the oilway in the steel bearing did not line up with the oil feed from the gear, and neither did it have a drilling to lubricate the mainshaft. I ground the oilway on the bush so that it lined up but it was far too hard to drill. I decided that replacing a bronze bush with lots of oilways with a harder steel bush with fewer oilways was likely to lead to wear of the mainshaft or gear or both and that I'd rather replace a cheap bush. So the new steel bush is on the shelf and an original spec bronze bush went in to the box. Many thanks to all for advice. I didn't make Prescott in the end, but did a track day at Donnington with no problems and have the Nurburgring coming up in a couple of weeks. Jerry
  4. jerrytr5

    Tyre choice

    There is a somewhat limited choice in 195/65 profile however I can recommend Bridgestone ER20 (superceded by ER30 now). I have just got rid of a set of Pirelli P6000 which didn't seem to suit the car at all and replaced them with Toyo CF1 which are just fabulous. Terrific grip, no squeal, great straight line stability, no tramlining. Have only done 50 dry miles with them so unable to comment on wet grip or longevity. Jerry
  5. If it was me, I'd be seriously concerned. I always go by the rule of thumb that under normal cruising conditions all the guages should be roughly vertical. Clearly oil pressure varies with revs, but even at idle should not drop to almost nothing. Try the easy checks first - pressure relief valve spring and pressure guage. Does the oil light flicker at idle? You mention that "When cold the oil pressure goes off the guage". Was this off the bottom at idle or off the top at speed? Jerry
  6. I no longer use Silicone. I found it causes the brakes to hang on. I know lots of people who use silicone and have not suffered this problem - I'm just throwing it in the mix for your consideration so that if it happens to you you can't say you weren't warned!!
  7. Nobody seems to have pointed out the consequences of very low profiles yet. Don't forget low profiles are designed for modern suspension systems. 16 inch and 50 series or even bigger and lower might look fantastic but I suggest would not handle well on a suspension system designed 30 years ago. Our cars tend to need the compliance present in a higher profile tyre. You need to go to a 65 series to take advantage of modern tyre technology but I personally wouldn't go below 60 series. I use a 195/65 on my 5. For my money you can't beat Bridgestones or Yokohama at the moment. It would be interesting to hear how a TR on 45 or 50 series tyres handles though.
  8. Bob, Kenlowe seem to have many different control units going back over the years. Have you tried giving them a call? They are always helpful and are only a small company so you will be able to talk to someone who actually knows something rather than a call centre in Mumbai. The website is http://www.kenlowe.com/ I always wire the fan via a relay on an ignition controlled circuit having an irrational fear that one day the switch will fail leaving the fan running and a flat battery. When it's very hot I leave the engine running and/or the ignition on for a minute or two after coming to a stop to cool everything down, but that's not such bad practice anyway.
  9. Ron, I realise it's not the question you asked but isn't 5.5J a little on the small size for a TR6? All depends on your tyre choice of course, but 6J seems to me more fitting. There is a good tyre/wheel calculator on http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html if you need to check out your chosen size.
  10. I had this problem with lever arms. Fit a longer bolt and stick a nyloc on the end so it's effectively double-nutted. If you convert to telescopics get the conversion brackets with the additional 'leg' that bolts on to where the bump rubber fits to the chassis. This eliminates the problem. CTM use this design, probably some others too.
  11. Couldn't disagree more Jonlar. Highly recommend fitting rear anti-roll bar and thicker front for the road. Don't go too hard on the spring rates or too low and convert to rear telescopics. Personally never rated Spax. Use Koni if you can get them as they are noticeably better.
  12. I'd suggest yours is fitted upside down. I thought that the slave cylinder was positioned so that the bleed screw is the upper one and the fluid pipe was lower...or am I missing something?
  13. Thanks for that. I will make sure it's a good fit when (hopefully) I attack it tonight. Jerry
  14. Just thought I'd update this thread. I am told that the Stag thrust bearing conversion is no longer that easy as some of the parts are no longer available. Installation does require machining of the gearbox casing. The accepted modification (for road cars) is to bore out the laygear to take two sets of needle rollers at the rear and thus half the load/double the life. I have been told that some of the new layshafts are insufficiently hardened and some of the synchro cups are of poor quality. I have had my layshaft modified with the two sets of needle rollers and stuck with the standard thrust washers. As these had survived the onslaught from shredded needle rollers, they don't appear to be that much of a weak point. I had the new layshaft hardness tested and it was pronounced 'very good'. I am replacing the second gear 'top hat' bearing which is known to be weak, with the later steel two piece component. During the clean up of the overdrive I discovered that two thrust washers had broken up and the planet gear carrier was damaged. Quite how it still worked perfectly I find amazing. Tough old things these overdrives. At this point I must enthuse about Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield. I sent up the damaged carrier overnight delivery on Monday. They stripped, refaced, made up a special thrust washer and rebuilt the planet bearings Tuesday and got it in the nights post for delivery back on Wednesday. We don't see service like this ofton so top marks to the boys at ORS. Hoping to get the thing back together for a run up Prescott on Sunday, otherwise I'll be using the Legacy Estate. Just crossing my fingers that the B&B new clutch works properly. Previous experience has been a bit 'hit & miss' but I'm told that they are much better these days. Chin Chin, Jerry
  15. Have you tried TR Bitz? Surely they'll have one. Or Mike Papworth might be able to help. I may have one buried at the back of the garage from when I wrote off my 4A in '82. Drop me a mail and I'll take a look if you're still stuck.
  16. Thanks for the input chaps. Suddenly remembered to check the Technicalities CD and there's a whole chapter dedicated to gearbox dismantling - should have checked first. Not much on upgrades though so any further info on what to consider welcomed.
  17. Just started pulling apart my gearbox and found the layshaft totally cream crackered - haven't got all the gears out yet to check for damage, but they look OK from the top. Browsing previous threads, it would seem that an upgrade is due. I have seen mention of using Stag components and I see that Revington offer an upgrade. Does the casing need machining for any of these mods or is it just limited to replacement layshaft and gear cluster? By the way, what's the sequence of dismantling the mainshaft. My manual goes on and on about Churchill tool such and such but doesn't actually say whether you start with the input shaft or 'tother end (or maybe I'm just being stupid). In the past I've left gearboxes to other people but I thought I'd have a crack this time. Any hints and tips welcomed (leave out the crosshaft tips - I cross-drilled and roll-pinned it last time I did the clutch and it is perfect still). I'll need to clean out all the iron fillings from the box and overdrive and was thinking of running it with a flushing oil once it's all back together (just in the workshop jacked up). Any views on whether this would be beneficial or indeed harmful? Jerry.
  18. Suggest you try a few tests to try and narrow it down. Are you sure it's a fuel problem or could it be ignition? There is loads of advice on how to check both issues on the TR6 forum. If it is fuel, this type of behaviour is typical of a car that has been standing and has got **** in the fuel tank. It's alright to start with and then a bit of movement moves a big chunk of sediment over the outlet blocking the supply. Just a thought.
  19. Correct. Having checked the diff over and adjusted the backlash, I refitted it with a couple of spare output shafts from a saloon pending sorting out the originals only to find that the solid 'clunk' that I thought was coming from the diff/driveshafts turns out to be the gearbox. I'm gutted.
  20. Warning - check that the drive cable fits the new wheelbox before you fit up. I bought a new pair that had too much clearance and did not mesh with the drive cable at all. Course, I didn't find out until after I fitted it and you know how difficult that is.
  21. Why the big clearance? I've always set mine at 10 thou.
  22. Anyone have any bright ideas on how to pull the flanges off the diff side shafts? Having undone the big nut I was expecting them to tap off so that I could replace the oil seals and bearings. My brother tried his works 8 ton press and bent the press without shifting the flange. Tried a bit of heat as well but that also failed. How many tons does it need?
  23. I used a good quality non-hardening sealant when I fitted mine. I don't remember which make, but just one of the clear external frame sealants I think. I haven't removed the wings since, so can't comment on how effective it has been, but there is no visible rust in the flange areas in the intervening 7 or 8 years. I'm surprised that fitting them 'dry' is effective. I should have thought that with the body flexing the paint would get worn through - you guys must have spent a lot of time getting the flanges straight, mine were like the himalayas.
  24. Crikey, this is a bit of a marathon post ain't it? For what it's worth, every Triumph I've ever owned or worked on which includes Herald, Spitfire, Saloon, GT6, TR ad infinitum has always had dowels fitted. What are the rest of you doing with them, throwing them away because they're not threaded?
  25. jerrytr5

    speedo

    Check/replace the speedo flexible drive and angle drive first, but it sounds like your speedo needs a rebuild. Speedycables offer a rebuild and calibration service - check their website on the measurements they need for calibration.
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