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jerrytr5

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Posts posted by jerrytr5

  1. "I was hoping to make it operate electrically, but couldn’t find a large enough solenoid valve suitable for low vacuum"

    I did something similar using a washing machine water valve(12v) to control fast idle.

    Jerry

  2. Checked the wires for shorts, all fine. One of the rear pair of speakers is 3.7 Ohms, the other 0 Ohms so definitely duff.

    I've had loads of old bangers with a duff speaker, I'm just so surprised that one channel can cut the entire amplifier. Learn something everyday.

    On the plus side the new head unit has bluetooth and in-built mic so the TR instantly has mobile phone connectivity.

    Can anyone use a Blaupunkt Atlanta radio/CD player that probably has nothing wrong with it?

    Jerry

  3. The radio/cd in my 7 has had an intermittent fault where all the speakers stop working. The power to the unit is fine. It's got 4 speakers all separately wired so after checking all the connectors multiple times I came to the conclusion the radio must have an internal fault so swapped it out. But the same fault returned. After more checking, I found that one of the speakers wasn't working properly & disconnecting it appeared to make the fault go away.

    So, (a) is it possible for a fault in one speaker to cause all the channels to go off?

    (b) how do you test a speaker?

    Jerry

  4. Why would a dealer keep a chassis on display unless it was a reject & the factory didn't want it back? Seems odd. Have you checked the suspension pick up points are in the right places!

    As far as mods or originality are concerned, I'm firmly in the mods camp. You need to make it fit your needs and resolve any of the known issues.

    Jerry

  5. My BL TR7 manual quotes 50 lbft.

    My BL Sprint manual quotes 55 ibft.

    I have seen 58 & 60 quoted. The TR7 & Sprint manuals differ in tightening sequence, however I would suggest tighten incrementally from the middle working out starting with the nuts then bolts. eg: Nuts 20, bolts 20, then nuts 40, bolts 40 etc.

    I use 60 lbft on my Sprint engine.

    Run to operating temp & leave to cool. Re-torque.

    Repeat after 1 hour at operating temp.

    Repeat after 250 miles & 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles.

    Jerry

  6. 5 hours ago, brian -r said:

    Can anyone tell me how smooth and flat the floor needs to be for these tiles to fit properly,

    My garage floor is not the best a bit uneven, I was thinking of using a paint on finish but you guy's have got me thinking.

    Brian

    Not perfect by any means. Mine was a bit scabby, filled in some of the deeper holes with a self levelling compound before laying the tiles.

    Jerry

  7. I've been helping a fellow member with his TR7 V8 and as I know nothing of Rover V8 engines I have a few basic questions. Engine is 3.9

    So, it turns out that the engine refused to run because the distributor drive gear which is located on the front of the camshaft had lost most of it's teeth. These are not broken off, but worn away. Curiously the dizzy drive gear looks almost untouched. How common is this, and why?

    The oil supply to the gear appears to be along the camshaft nose through the keyway - is this normally sufficient?

    The oil pump is part of the timing cover on this engine and is showing some wear - can this be recovered or is the entire very expensive timing cover scrap?

    The timing chain is slack and there is no tensioner (by design - at least I think so!). Recommended suppliers and helpful suggestions please.

    Jerry1078857906_Timingchain(1).thumb.jpg.271adb6ba6a40265cf533d95bff1d7fc.jpg1990818101_Dizzydrive(1).thumb.jpg.aa5230ca3eeb36bf2678504c58ab3d1a.jpg

    oil pump (1).jpg

    oil pump (2).jpg

  8. 7 hours ago, Macleesh said:

    they've been breaking since the IRS system came into use.

    That statement is neither quantifiable or can be proven. Triumph IRS is generally robust & long lived.

    In recent years there have been rear hub failures, possibly due to hubs being rebuilt and the stresses put into the components on disassembly. Personally I wouldn't rebuild one  

    Jerry

  9. Any idea what this is?

    Sprung wire thing that is bolted beneath the upper steering column mount. Looks like it could stop the column dropping if both shear bolts dropped out, but it's far too light for any safety use surely. Unable to find in on-line parts manual but I don't really know what I'm looking for.

    Jerry

    spring wire (1).jpg

    spring wire (2).jpg

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