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MJF

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    Loughborough, Leics

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  1. MJF

    Door Cards

    When I did mine I found some useful info on these water curtains on the 6 pack forum, hopefully the link below still works: https://forums.6-pack.org/the-6-pack-forums/car-repair-restoration-help/body-trim-accessories/65976-water-curtain-assembly-front-and-rear-after-comm-cf1-cr1 Regards, Martin
  2. Here is a photo of my TR6 hardtop, with the rods fitted, prior to fitting the headlining. Martin
  3. I think the TR250 (and early US TR6) heads had a narrower inlet port spacing, so as Graham said, if you still have the original TR250 head fitted you will need to change this to convert to PI Martin.
  4. Looking on the Moss web site: 9inch rear drums were fitted up to TS5442, which is confirmed by my car which is number TS2453 and has 9in drums. Wheel cylinders and abutments ran through to TS13045, so yes sounds like they should be interchangeable. Sorry, don’t have any spares. Martin
  5. MJF

    Inlet manifold

    I thought the TR250 and early carb TR6 heads had narrower spaced inlet ports, so you really want an inlet manifold to match the head?
  6. Pic 3 looks like the clutch master cylinder bracket from a TR6 to me. Martin
  7. Hi Martin, A while back Stuart provided a really good description for the whole process, which is what I will be following when I attempt mine sometime later this year. To find, do a search on this forum for “Replacing an inner sill without removing the body”. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/37164-replacing-an-inner-sill-without-removing-the-body/?hl=%2Breplacing+%2Binner+%2Bsill+%2Bwithout+%2Bremoving+%2Bbody Martin
  8. Hi John, My commission number is TS2453L. I bought it off John Saunders in 2013, who at the time had recently imported it from the US, but I didn't have time to start the restoration until Summer 2016. Martin
  9. That sounds a very sensible explanation for the discrepancies in the parts listings. I still plan on building mine without these seals, being stick on they can always be fitted later. Isn’t it great we still have some access to those who ran our cars originally? Martin
  10. Just to confuse the issue further my Spare Parts Catalogue, Part No 501653 Amendment 1, dated May 1961, has the identical plate AK illustration as Iain’s, but with detailed differences for the part numbers. This would imply to me the lower door seal was not fitted until TS 22014, which was the first TR3A on 17 Sep 57. I am currently restoring an early long door 2. Based I this I am not planning to include lower door seals; that is unless I find water ingress an issue, when I may fit stick on seals, which is possibly what the original owners did. Martin Spare Parts Cat 4th editio
  11. In the interests of maintaining the forum as a future reference source I thought I should resurrect this old post to confirm the final outcome. If you remember my car is a long door TR2, on the original wire wheels adaptors which are integral with the hubs. The problem was I could not pull the hub off the half shaft, the splined collar holding it on was stuck and access down the wire wheel adaptor very limited. I borrowed a bigger three legged puller but just could not move it. In the end I took the half shaft with hub it to TR Enterprises and left it with them. Apparently it put up a
  12. You might find these links helpful: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/41514-door-water-curtain/ and this one also has a link to a post on the 6 pack forum has some good images: http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/21-body-trim-a-accessories/238122-Water-Curtain-Assembly-Front-and-Rear-after-Comm-Cf1-CR1#238172 Martin
  13. Hi Andrew, I also have the same loom from Autosparks. When I asked for the additional relays for main and dipped beams, and electric fan, they asked me where I wanted them. I said around near the existing fuse box and in the end I mounted them in the inner wing, next to the existing fuse box. From memory the relay holders all clip together, so I have just screwed them to the panel. Regards, Martin
  14. Hi Bob, The bulbs arrived this morning, Many thanks, Martin
  15. Thanks for all the replies guys. Chris, I'm not referring to the collar the wire wheel locates on, but the internally splined tapered collar (part No 108608) that fits into the end of the hub itself. My concern is if I simply try and pull the hub off with the tapered collar still in place, the taper will force the collar to grip the splines even harder. Presumably that is why it is there in the first place. Also as this part is showing as NCA on the Moss web site, I don’t want to risk breaking it. Have others succeeded in pulling the hub off with this collar still in place?
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