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MJF

TR Register Members
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About MJF

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  • Location
    Loughborough, Leics

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  1. If you search for the topic “Upside down slave cylinder and 9.5mm throw” you will find plenty of info on the lengths of RHD & LHD master cylinder push rods. Martin
  2. I suspect CP cars had the green oil warning lights, CR had yellow.
  3. MJF

    Part question

    Is it the spacer from where the alternator mounts onto the engine? Martin
  4. Les, I got mine from TR Enterprises a couple of years ago. I think they had a batch re-manufactured as at the time originals were no longer available from the usual suppliers. Martin
  5. Mick, Sorry for any confusion, I think the lengths I quoted are for the effective length of the pushrod, this is the distance between the centre line of the clevis pin holes and the end of the operating arm, as this is the length which determines clutch operation. Referring to your drawing, you show the overall length as 90mm, and the centre line of the clevis pin holes inset by 8mm. This therefore gives an effective length for the pushrod of 82mm. Les, With the LHD (75mm) pushrod I measured a linear movement at the master cylinder of approx. 24mm. Replacing with a RHD
  6. I have had a similar problem to yours recently when I slowly started to experience clutch drag, especially when the car got warmer such as when stuck in slow moving traffic. Measuring the movement of the clutch arm I was only getting 11mm, whereas it should be 5/8"" or 16mm. In the end, speaking to Simon at TR Enterprises, he suggested I check the length of the master cylinder pushrod, as LHD ones have a shorter pushrod, and there have been a number of LHD ones supplied with repro master cylinders. A RHD pushrod is 82mm and a LHD is75mm. When I checked I had a LHD one fitted.
  7. Do you have the contact details of the guy who does the body plates 

  8. MJF

    Door Cards

    When I did mine I found some useful info on these water curtains on the 6 pack forum, hopefully the link below still works: https://forums.6-pack.org/the-6-pack-forums/car-repair-restoration-help/body-trim-accessories/65976-water-curtain-assembly-front-and-rear-after-comm-cf1-cr1 Regards, Martin
  9. Here is a photo of my TR6 hardtop, with the rods fitted, prior to fitting the headlining. Martin
  10. I think the TR250 (and early US TR6) heads had a narrower inlet port spacing, so as Graham said, if you still have the original TR250 head fitted you will need to change this to convert to PI Martin.
  11. Looking on the Moss web site: 9inch rear drums were fitted up to TS5442, which is confirmed by my car which is number TS2453 and has 9in drums. Wheel cylinders and abutments ran through to TS13045, so yes sounds like they should be interchangeable. Sorry, don’t have any spares. Martin
  12. MJF

    Inlet manifold

    I thought the TR250 and early carb TR6 heads had narrower spaced inlet ports, so you really want an inlet manifold to match the head?
  13. Pic 3 looks like the clutch master cylinder bracket from a TR6 to me. Martin
  14. Hi Martin, A while back Stuart provided a really good description for the whole process, which is what I will be following when I attempt mine sometime later this year. To find, do a search on this forum for “Replacing an inner sill without removing the body”. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/37164-replacing-an-inner-sill-without-removing-the-body/?hl=%2Breplacing+%2Binner+%2Bsill+%2Bwithout+%2Bremoving+%2Bbody Martin
  15. Hi John, My commission number is TS2453L. I bought it off John Saunders in 2013, who at the time had recently imported it from the US, but I didn't have time to start the restoration until Summer 2016. Martin
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