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Posts posted by marko
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Or take your spare wheel cover to a decent paint motor factor and they can match it as close as they can......
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Looks like Signal Red (Code 32), Pimento red wouldn't have been available on a sidescreen car.
However, over the years it could have faded, been mixed specially or just another shade of another colour used (like Mazda MX5 red) or whatever was "in the spray gun" at the time....
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7 hours ago, stuart said:
If ordered from new you could have body colour or black or white.
Stuart.
Correct
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I paid £300 for a mohair TR6 hood and frame from TRGB, in excellent condition
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Thank You for the Birthday Wishes everyone! I had a very nice day spent with the family and the kids paid for dinner (which is nice!)
Regards Mark
P.S I'm finding this retirement lark a bit of a struggle after working for the last 40 years!!
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As others have said check the throttle body butterflies are opening fully by taking off the big black plenum tube and getting someone to press the accelerator pedal to the floor - sounds like you're only getting half throttle somehow.
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41 minutes ago, Neilson said:
That hole underneath shouldn't be there, it looks like a rust hole, in fact the front edge of that chassis rail has had a huge plate welded over it from side to side as the seam welding is certainly not factory
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All TR Prices are dropping currently, the Classic Car market is on the decline, I'm sure it will bounce back at some point but just look at TR6 prices and the number of TR5's that have been listed recently.
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Neil,
What you've got to ask yourself 100% seriously is......Is this a £30,000 car that has had a "full nut & bolt" restoration - as they've described it on the website!
Regards Mark
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5 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
The part number given is USA unique for side/ indicators mounted in the bumper
Well Spotted Peter, I didnt read that bit.
I would suggest contacting TRGB as they have loads of 2nd hand bits kicking around and can post very efficiently.
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If you're fitting UK Lenses then the plinths for these are different to the American version as the UK lenses are split for indicator / sidelight and so are the plinths.
If you're fitting the UK lenses then you need the split UK Plinths that segregate side light and indicator bulb surely?
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Rees Brothers down near Aldershot are pretty decent people from what I can gather.
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7 hours ago, PGB BME said:
Isn’t that car the one P Moffat restored?
Phil
I don't think so Phil, I've had a couple of Peter's cars - His cars were restored (nut & bolt) to a much higher standard, under the wheel arches and the chassis would never have been plastered in thick underseal like that if Peter would have done it.
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55 minutes ago, John Morrison said:
Good to see you are not retired, retired Marko.
Always valuable insight.
John.
Ha ha Thanks John,
Hope you're well up there??......batten down the hatches tonight my friend!
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Good Luck - But It looks like its had more of a respray than an restoration.
You certainly need to see the car on the ramp "before" committing to purchase.
The chassis and inner body needs to be inspected carefully as I have seen loads and loads of ex US cars with bent chassis's (normally the O/S front corner) or poorly repaired (Stuart I'm sure will also confirm this!)
Good Luck though
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Hi Neil,
For the price they are asking (£38k) which by the way is way over top money for a 250 over here, I would expect the floors to be all body colour and the wheel arches not to be "caked" in tetroseal / underseal.
It doesn't look like its had a "body off" restoration and the chassis also seems to be caked in underseal.
It is pretty much impossible to judge a car from photographs but for that money this car should be virtually concours condition based on the market prices and the decline in classic car prices recently.
But what do I know? as I'm retired now!
Mark O
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You need to go back to basics.
Fuel or Spark issue!!!
Buy one of these off Amazon and put it on top of one of the spark plugs and then put the lead back on.....
Run the car until it stops again and try to start it........if the sparkrite tester shows a spark then the electrics are all good and the spark is reaching the plugs!
If not then work your way back from the plug leads to the distributor - check the Rotor Arm as others have said - If its a Black one, throw it away and get a genuine distributor doctor red one from Martin Jay (Not Ebay as there are chinese copies being sold on there)
It sounds to me like the Rotor Arm or a bad connection on the coil or the 12v wire from the fuse box....
If you've got a good spark at the plugs then try bypassing the grey fuel cut off (inertia switch)
If it's not that - then get someone who knows what they are doing to have a look!!
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The whole market is on the decline i'm afraid.....
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I'm supposed to be retiring ha ha......
Message Sent
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I would suggest you get any TR inspected by a TR Specialist (not a general classic car guy) as TR's have lots of interesting hidden areas that can rust and cause "serious" and costly repairs.....I've seen a number of cars advertised at £20k plus that need serious repairs or restoration so don't be fooled by the asking price, it doesn't necessarily mean they are good cars......some are "horrors"
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28 minutes ago, ntc said:
Never judge a car by pictures
Totally agree, pictures are very mis leading.....I'd be more interested in the chassis, inner body panels, door gaps, paint finish etc....
How much it is advertised for?
TR prices are currently on the down turn and as autumn / winter approaches likely to fall even more.....
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I have used Nankang & Toyo tyres - 165 80 15's and they are both superb and give you the authentic ride and feel as well as much lighter steering feel over 185 / 195's and above.
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Now Sold - Thanks!
Selling a TR4 in Australia to the UK?
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
Prices of all TR's have dropped in the UK, I was offered a decent original RHD TR4 with OD for £13500 last week and I politely declined.
I would have thought the Australian market would be more lucrative for you.
What do I know