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tr6fan

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About tr6fan

  • Birthday 12/23/1956

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    http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/tr6fan/?action=tags&current=1973%20TR6%20RGU%20110L
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  • Location
    Northants

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  1. I had this-just needed to bend the stay slightly to fix it completely.
  2. My CR is the same, although the choke cable takes a more direct route from the bulkhead rather than running over to the inner wing and back and yes, it is a twin cable, one going to the MU lever.
  3. tr6fan

    Lighting Issues

    Well, since I had been dismantling the steering column the area where that multiway connector lives could have been disturbed. Having spent hours playing with switches and connections over the last day or two, I just gave the multiway connector a wiggle and everything came back to life.I'll take it apart and clean all the connections. Thank you so much for that advice Roger-much appreciated!
  4. tr6fan

    Lighting Issues

    There is no power on any wire at the switch in the on position
  5. tr6fan

    Lighting Issues

    Will do Roger-yes, I meant no power NR with the switch in the on position.
  6. tr6fan

    Lighting Issues

    need some help guys-searched and plenty have had issues before me but can't find a way forward. I recently replaced the steering column bushes on my 1973 TR6 (a fun job, but that's another story!) Since then I cannot get the headlights to work properly. I believe all the connectors are correct and the switchgear works fine. I have noticed there is no live feed to the column switch and I think it should be live through the red/brown wire that goes back to the dash light switch. The only live feed to the column switch is the thin brown "flash to pass" one, which is working. earth points all seem good 9unless there's one I don't know about) Anyone any ideas?
  7. When I did mine I copied an original sales brochure: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/rebuilders-diary/2018/01/0103/The-easiest-jobs
  8. Yes I have the CDD CV shafts and Alasdair has always been helpful, offering to send me some nuts to facilitate the task. If I can reuse the hub nut and the nuts at the diff are just nyloc (someone mentioned metal tabs?) then I have no real issue as I can easily replace nyloc nuts. The driveshaft seems to be the determining factor in the trailing arm not going down and I do not wish to put pressure on it.
  9. The trailing arm bushes are poly so it is relatively stiff. Undoing the top shock absorber nut equates to me undoing the bottom one I guess-i.e. the shock absorbetr is no longer connected to the arm. There is a lot of resistance if I push down on the arm but I assume I can push it down so the CV driveshaft contacts the chassis without doing any damage to it? If that is so at least I can explore all the travel to see ifthe spring will come out. Since the CV nuts all seem to need replacing every time you do this I am even thinking of undoing the trailing arm mounts instead-any views on that? Thanks for all the great advice so far chaps, really shows how good this forum is!
  10. The only thing I undid was the shock absorber and the hub wouldn't drop more than a small distance. The shaft is not in contact with the chassis.
  11. Mine doesn't want to drop at all!
  12. That sounds good, might be able to leave the hub nut on then. Thanks.
  13. Thanks Mickey, I'll do it back up before I do anything else!
  14. OK thanks Colin, i was hoping for a magic solution but you have kindly confirmed the facts!
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