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henktr

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  1. Thanks for your reactions! @Harry: The freeze and heat approach was also my initial intention, but because the drum is tapered more than 7 mm ( 2x 3,5) and therefore to big in total, this won’t work. @ Roger : The TR-shop would be the most sensible option, but I want it to give it a try. (However an nice option if it fails…)The outside of the drum isn’t machined and the tolerance is not that good. With a micrometer i found differences of 0,4-0,5 mm. And the lathe of my friend can not make a stable angle. regards Henk
  2. I own a Valencia blue Tr250 for 28 years now. It has a Chris Witor modified 25/65 65/25 camshaft with SU carbs. The car runs very good and also the brakes work well. It has the standard rear brake drums with 0,875” brake cylinder. By accident I found and bought a pair of alloy fin rings to fit over the brake drums. It is very similar to the Racetorations part: https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/9-rear-brake-drums-with-alloy-cooling-fins-pair-tr3a-6/ The inside diameter of the ring is 23,8 cm. This is the same size as the (lateral)outside of the brake drum. But the brake
  3. Waldi, A screw to start from is a good idea. I’ll keep you informed. regards Henk
  4. With help from our Triumph friends from the Triumphexperience forum the problem is solved. I’m missing a small dish that fits in the spring. ( see picture) The next problem wil be finding this very small part. My first try was without results :-(. thanks for you’re reactions regards Henk
  5. Thanks for the advice, but it made no difference. I'm missing the click of the switch I had before in the 2 positions.The edge of the plastic fork on the side of the spring is rough. Is it possible that something broke off?
  6. No it's the switch itself. . When I reassemble the switch it doesn't function as it's supposed to. I can't seem to move the internal copper part up and down. The spring wobbles on the small round projection of the knob. I have the feeling something is missing here. When i connect the terminals manually the hazard lights are flashing.
  7. Hello, During the removal of my speedometer, I bumped into hazard rocker switch of my TR250. The switch fell on the ground and I have found: 1. the switch knob, 2. the copper round part 3 spring/plastic part I can't get the swich working again with these parts. Am I missing something or am I not that good in solving puzzles? Regards Henk
  8. Bought a chromed rocker shaft with rebushed rockers for my .tr250 about 4 years ago directly from Rocker Arm Specialist in the US (.Was very pleased with the results. http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/about.html. It has a new owner now with the old employees. If i understand it correctly from the .pdf file in your post, they do the work for moss now. Regards henk
  9. the jpeg file was a little blurry i hope this one is better regards henk headlightsteprelay-3.pdf
  10. I have a tr250 with the same stalk headlight swicht as the early tr 6. With a length of 2m I could also use a little more room for my left leg (LHD) and wanted to remove the dip switch. As discussed earlier in this thread, I opted a few years ago for the flash option of the headlight switch to choose between headlight and dim light. When owning a volvo 240 estate , i found out that volvo has a nice mechanic relay for the head light/dim and flash option. You don't have to use a diode. The relay was first introduced on the volvo 164 in 1968,so it is also from the right era. The flash
  11. The gearlever of my TR250 suddenly started to rattle. I knew I had put in a spring and plunger. (It is an experience one will not forget!) After taking the gearlever out I found out that the plunger was stuck in the hole. I had to tap it on a piece of wood to get it out. There was no coil bound of the spring but the aftermarket plunger was too soft and a little damaged. After using a file I put the plunger back again again and the rattle is gone. regards Henk
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