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rpurchon

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Posts posted by rpurchon

  1. Has anybody had any steel wheels stove enamelled recently. Looking for someone in the Yorkshire area if possible

     

    Regards

     

    Barry

    LSN coatings Castleford. did my alloys £30 per wheel blasted and powder coated and they are very good.

    richard

  2. i am renewing the rear valance on my car.

    while its all in bits i was thinking about fitting some fibreglass wings, and liners

    how good a fit are they,how solid etc.

    any one have any photos,generaly and especialy looking at the b post.

    the steel wings on my car have been on 8 years,

    and starting to rust ever so slightly.

    i know i will now have to keep painting these every 2 years.

    looking at the rusty ones for sale at the international for crazy money.

    and new one for £500

    i would wrap them up and put some where safe.

     

    richard

  3. Lately Rimmer Bros have been very slow to ship orders. My order from 07/08/2013 still on the 10/08/2013 (12.45 pm) have the status: Order Submitted to Web Site. And everything in the order is in stock.

     

    Order Number Order Total Number of Items Order Date Ship Date Status

    216180 £364.90 28 07/08/2013 Order Submitted to Web Site

     

    Anybody who have the same experience?

     

    Tage

    they will be busy at the international

  4. Alan

     

    indeed I did but I also measured it between the contacts (closed) and thats where I detected the 1.2 volt drop.

     

    Have removed it today and given a good clean. However the resistance between the live to headlight and live to sidelights varies considerably with the headlights some 3 or 4 times higher. So guess its new switch time..

     

    PS thanks for all help

    fit a relay where the bullet connector goes to the column switch.you will need a few female spade connectors to fit onto relay.

    wire it so the column switch only powers the coil in the relay.there will only be 1.5 w current going through the headlight switch.

    and save you buying a new one.

    do the same for the side light/dash bulbs.using a mini relay.

    all tucked up behind dash/speedo

    heres a crappy diagram

    richard

    post-2190-0-51952500-1372778950_thumb.jpg

    post-2190-0-51952500-1372778950_thumb.jpg

  5. Thanks for that. Engine has been running smoothly before this happened so hopefully I can push it through the summer.

     

    Would you say I could recondition the crank or would I need a brand new one?

     

    / Vegard

    the rear crank bearing face needs machining flat and smooth.BIG lathe reqd.then gap would probably be too big for oversize thrust washers.

    cheaper to get a second hand or new crank.

    put some thrust washers back in and keep checking to get you through the summer,you will get good at taking the sump off.

     

    good excuse to go to the tr international for a holiday in uk me thinks! unless you can get a crank there.

    richard

  6.  

    Sigh... Current end float, 0.109", maybe a tiny bit too much.

     

    / V

    the bearing cap can be machined like this but you will need a new crank as the face is badly scored.

    put new thrust washers in and the crank will chew the rear one up pretty quick.

    richard

    post-2190-0-26594200-1369860251_thumb.jpg

    post-2190-0-76382800-1369860640_thumb.jpg

    post-2190-0-26594200-1369860251_thumb.jpg

    post-2190-0-76382800-1369860640_thumb.jpg

  7. Fellow enthusiasts,

     

    I'm looking to change my Stroms on my 71 US import 6 with some SU's. The price of a reconditioned set on the web seem to vary from reasonable to outrageous! I've seen SU's for TR7's and GT6's on fleabay that are 1 3/4" but don't know if these are compatible or would cost a fortune to adapt. Can anybody shed any light on the do's and dont's of changing their Stroms to SU's and what's the best option? (I've read some previous threads and have seen the article that makes reference to Andrew Turner at su-carbs).

     

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

     

    any 1 3/4 will fit, from saloons tr7 etc. then you need to fit yellow springs and bae needles.ditch the waxtat jets if they are fitted.

    has your car still got the square inlet manifold.the later banna shape one is better,but wont fit early us narrow port head.

     

    richard

  8. a cheap alternative is flash band from builders merchants.sticky pitch one side and black silver foil the other.comes in various widths 4" - 18".

    warm it up to make it stick and its cheap.

    and if your garage roofs leaking you can fix that at the same time.

    richard

  9. take the valves out and look under the seat area.original are bit uneven and lumpy,and the bottom of the ex stems looks untouched.

    but the outer ports where the manifold fit look smooth,

    you should have bought your in law some emery tape for xmas, it would have kept him busy for hours

    richard

  10. Talking of the crank pulley - does anyone know it it is still possible to get a boss and bolt to get rid of the pulley extension - I have had an electric fan for years and don't need the pulley extension any more... I have seen these items on state side supplier sites but was wondering if anyone had done similar here.

     

    Cheers

    ive made a few of these and sold them on fleabay in the past.lm sure ive some ally bar left.

    ill make some this weekend and put on ebay,.or pm me £12.50

    richard

    post-2190-0-33831500-1356218847_thumb.jpg

    post-2190-0-33831500-1356218847_thumb.jpg

  11. i fitted megajolt to my 6,cost about £150 for everything and it works A1. heres a photo of the front pully set up..

    if the engine coming out you could also fit the sensor to flywheel, even better,

    the pick up works on magnetism.

    a simpler solution would be to drill small holes in the pully or crank and fit 35 small 3 or 5 mm neodyium magnets.

    or you could easily make a disk up with magnets on and fit it in the dizzy.

  12. Are these thinner oils OK with OD?

    Because if they are this is a great idea.

     

    There is a lot of oil drag in these boxes with the "recommended" oil because everything is so big.

     

    Al.

     

    ive used it for 6+ years no problem ,A type.

     

    richard

    richard

  13. Hi all/fountain of knowledge

    I've come to the well one more time ;)

     

    I recently (April-ish) had my Gearbox and overdrive out and work done on same. The overdrive was done and I took the opportunity to check the gearbox, and replace the old Transit clutch with a good B&B one. Once all back together, she worked and drove like a dream. However, see has now started to develop a problem. The gear change has been fine, great even. Now though it has developed a slight "grind", but only when dropping from 3rd into 2nd. In other words, there are no problems moving through the gears bar 2nd, and only when dropping from 3rd :unsure: I thought at first I was just shifting too fast (to match the way I like to drive her ;) ) but it does this 7 out of ten times no matter how fast, slow or deliberate the change is.

     

    Anyone here had a similar problem before ? Or have any thoughts on same ??

    It's strange as the whole lot has only just been done.

     

    As always, many thanks in advance

     

    Kevin

     

    P.S.

    Here she is below with her new "winter" hard top on, Which I picked up when over at Stafford and the IWE

     

     

    IMG_0968_zps7eb7be6b.jpg

     

    could be brass 3 rd gear top hat has cracked as already mentioned.but if it was ok before gearbox out and presume new oil change, i doubt it.

    is it worse when cold.if so.

    try some modern thinner 75/90 semi or fully synthethic gearbox oil in it.

    richard

  14. I have a carb 1970 TR6 that I have fitted HS6 SU Carbs to. The donar car was an Automatic 2.5 saloon. My car has a 150 bhp cam shaft and the compression ration is 9:1. Has anyone any suggestions for the type of Needle it should have?

    I want it to go well but run smoothly throught the range.

     

    yellow springs and BAE needles.

    richard

  15. Hi there,ive just had my engine fully rebuilt,top and bottom.The engineer said that it seems to be pinking slightly,and now ive got to do the running in bit,not above 3000rpm,max70mph.He said it may have something to do with distributor or may just need running on super unleaded,so what would you envisage it to be,and is it necessary to run it on superunleaded,any tips will come in handy as im off to put a few hundred miles on it tomorrow around glorious Wales,cheers.

     

    retard the ignition a bit, with the vernier, i use morrisons or any one else cheap unleaded and no problems after 8 years.

    richard

  16. Not wishing to start the gearbox/OD oil debate again I'm about to do my gerabox//OD A type and diff.

     

    I have 5ltrs of GL5 EP80/90 will that be OK. Its just that I note that the brown bible says GL4 EP80/90 ?

     

    Thanks

     

    i put gl5 in my gbox and no problems.+ its higher spec than gl4. but then i dont believe this old wives tale about it disolving bronze.

    when gl5 first came out,whenever that was maybe,could have been a problem.

    but not now.if it did disolve bronze etc it would have a big warning label on it. wouldnt it.

    if any one puts gl5 in there gbox and it suddenly fails.it will be sod all to do with the oil.more like your gbox is 40+ years old

    richard

  17. Thanks for everyone's help,have checked all the above and its pointing to internal overdrive or gearbox problem so will get the professionals to fix it.

    as for the stiff clutch it looks like the fluid is gone bad when i bled the system,so it may have damaged the seals in the master and slave cylinders.

     

    did any oil pump out of the removed plug.if it did try hitting the iron ring on the overdrive with a hammer.could be a stuck clutch.

    richard

  18. Hi guys!

     

    Just returned from a couple of weeks touring in France, and while I was away, the speedo started behaving very erratically. Initially, it was bouncing around the approximate speed we were traveling - then it went into "warp factor 8" and everywhere I went was off the clock with the needle bouncing against the pin.

     

    No problem I thought, new speedo cable was ordered while I was away to await my return. I've just finished fitting it and the first thing I noticed was that the old cable wasn't broken as far as I could see.. then went for a run down to the end of the road and yes.. you've guessed it.. Dixie still thinks she's the Star Ship Enterprise!

     

    So what's happening guys? Any ideas? Dixie's a '68 by the way.

     

    Thanks!

     

    there is a coiled [return]spring behind the speedo face.this has broken or come loose.

    richard

  19. Hi all

     

    Brought my first 72 tr6 pi a few months ago now with work needing to be done to it,have now got it running well and looking good,but have no overdrive, solenoid working so drained oil which was like new and refilled and ran the car in 3rd gear overdrive in and loosened off the operating valve a little oil leeked out but not much even when fully out so i think that it may be the pump knackered?

    If so whats the best options i have?

    Also another problem i have is after about 20min driving the clutch becomes very stiff so when i try to pull away from standstill its very hard to pull away smoothly its ether in or out!

    any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

    many thanks

    James

     

    as stuart says, gbox dowels .while gbox cover is off.

    re overdrive.

    drive car and try operating the lever on the driver side by hand.if overdrives ok, it will work instantly.

    if it works engaging it by hand,the solenoid needs setting, or could be lazy need renewing.

    to check pump remove plug on r/h side top of overdrive, above lever and take out the spring and ball bearing.

    jack one wheel up and run car. if pump works oil will come out of this hole.

    DO NOT lift the lever up further than the aligning holes,with spring and bb removed

    richard

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