Drewmotty

Keep trying with the plugs out. It takes a long time to fill the oil filter and then raise pressure.

I use the Penrite and like Iain buy it in a 20 litre drum. I find that the oil pressure varies less under various driving conditions. The formulation includes an inhibitor which thickens on surfaces exposed to air and protects them when the car is not in use for longer periods.

My car today. Read into that what you will.

I’ve tried 33mm chokes in place of the 30mm ones. As expected main jets larger than the 130s were required. The larger chokes provided more of the same, small gains at the top end at the expense of a less smooth roll on at low/medium throttle and slower starting (I don’t have starting enrichment fitted). I reverted to the 30s and the car felt quicker on the road. Accept that whatever you start with will only ever be a starting point and you will need to use rolling road data and considerable road testing to refine the setup to your personal requirements. Saving grace is that it

Produces an extra 8-10hp on my lightly modified engine but only above about 3500 rpm. Below that it just uses more fuel for no gain over twin SUs.

Idle Jet 55F9 Main jet 130 Emulsifier F15 Air Correction 180 Choke 30 mm Aux Venturi 4.5 Float Needle 1.75 Pump Jet 45

This one is supposed to be solvent resistant. https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Pressure-sprayer-Solvent-resistant-PMPSPRBTL-PLA-EMPTY-1LTR/0891503001.sku/en/GB/GBP/

You shouldn’t need an overflow bottle but a header tank may be useful.

Thanks Stewart. I just need to find a hardtop to fit them to now.

I use these from Toolstation.

Has anyone seen brass cant rails before. All the ones which I’ve seen before are anodized aluminium but I have a set which came off an original hard top many years ago and are chromed brass.

Issue 13 of In the Garage covers fitting Jaguar tacho giblets into a TR6 rev counter shell. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gfmi37kp2i2m7hi/AAASxwvmDIEsBE20f9BgebfSa?dl=0

Dont laugh.....believe it or not Ive built a career as an aerospace engineer and made it to retirement ........... All our early cars were designed for use with cross ply tyres and now that we use radials they would benefit from a bit of negative camber. Had radals been an original fitment then the chassis would have been designed with a small amount of negative built in. Given that we are only talking about pulling the suspension towers in by about 10 mm a side and the chassis is not made of anything special and is pretty flexible has any one tried tweaking it a bit and making a shorter