Richard B 2.5PI

Does anyone have experience of how to shorten a speedi-sleeve? Should I install it and then shorten it? Should I mount it on a dowel, shorten it on a lathe and then install? or is there another option?

My apologies, I have checked the 2000/2.5 Workshop manual and you are correct. I have edited the post. I tend to use a 3/8" drive ratchet when doing them up, so less chance of over tightening them.

My experience is mainly with the big saloons. But the only time I have had problems with the mounting studs is during fitment of the hub. Do fit new nyloc nuts and torque to 25 12-14lb/ft, don't overtighten them. The few I have had, that stripped the threads in the trailing arms, I repaired with helicoils. If doing that, you need to be careful when drilling the trailing arm to make sure the drill is at 90 degrees to the face. Triumph should have specified UNC not UNF into the trailing arm, but that was a very long time ago and the 2000 MkI was only 90bhp at the time.

Sorry I could not figure out how to add descriptive text to the images. The top image is page 6.154 from the GT6 MkI Manual which also uses a two speed DR3A (with a Lucas switch). This has Red/Light Green connected to terminal one for High (read Fast). The little image at the bottom is an extract from the TR5 Workshop Manual Supplement wiring diagram (as is the facia diagram). Just to highlight the discrepancy.

The reconditioner replied he always wired the two speed DR3A this way, with Red/Light Green for fast and both Brown/Light Green and Red/Light Green for slow. Interestingly the GT6 MkI manual (extract attached) bears that out. So even Triumph could not agree!

I know I am resurrecting this thread from a long time ago; however the text above bears out what I have found to work on my two speed DR3A with the Clear Hooters Switch. Although the colour codes given above are misleading, as it is Brown/Light Green (not Green/Brown) and Red/Light Green (not Green/Red). The TR5 - PI Workshop Manual Supplement and the TR250 wiring diagrams both say Fast is Brown/Light Green and Slow is Red/Light Green on the clear hooters switch. However the reconditioned DR3A I have just received had a note explicitly stating that; Fast tab on switch is Red/Light Gr

Thank you for your response. I have just heard back from Dennis Vessey. He said to use kit; https://www.burtonpower.com/wheel-bearing-kit-front-ford-sierra-cosworth-4x4-xr4x4-qwb543.html This includes the seals. He also said that no spacer is required between the bearings and to torque the nut to 220 lb/ft.

I have a pair of Quaife hubs. One of which is dismantled and came with two new taper bearings for assembly. This looks like the earlier design before the bearing packs were used. If anyone can advise it would be greatly appreciated. Should there be a spacer and or shims between the bearings as none were included. I could always dismantle the other hub to find out?

I did not realise it wrapped itself around the steering column like that. Luckily mine is a LHD so space is not at such a premium.

Thanks for the information. I have a Tony Law 6-3-1 to fit, I will be removing the Revington 6-1 currently installed.

Personally I would never fit one; as they are "spawn of the devil". However I know someone who removed theirs from a 6'pot and then found that there was no oil coming up from the block as the OE feed had been closed. I don't know why, but the previous quote about poor quality cams makes sense. I agree with the earlier posts that fitting one without changes to the system, results in excessive oil supply to the head.

On my TR250, white is the earth wire, which I found disconcerting...

Only fit if you have blocked off the oil feed from the block.

Thanks for the confirmation, I will be changing it. Until I saw the wiring diagram, I thought it had been incorrectly wired.