Jeff Cotter

Hi Chris yeh did that on the old and new Dy'mo, the old one tested fine but for£60 i put a new one on. I also ran the test George refers to as i also have the very useful doc attached above. I will keep searching for the problem.... cheers.

Hi thanks George, just taking a look at the solid state, ultimately Solid/s, on a tour is piece of mind..... cheers jeff

Thanks Rob, i'll follow your guidance, many thanks...

Hi All, I need some advice on "The dark side", (Electrics) :-). I am chasing a fault around my electrics, (TR4A IRS 67). I cant get a charge reading. And the ammeter does not show a positive charge. The following hopefully helps... Action taken... Changed Dynamo. Ammeter shows negative when engine stopped and lights put on. changed lead from dynamo to control box. run test from dynamo 4v at 1500 rpm gen light on dash goes out when engine running mustimeter across battery shows no charge, just 12v with engine stopped or running. I have started a

Hi Yes that is a consideration...

Hi Just thought I would bring peeps up to speed as I had some great feedback, special thanks to Roger and Richard (Who has a great offer of refurbished trailing arms). I decided to try a repair first of all and with a friend in the alloy fabrication business found myself in a lucky position. He has said he would take on other work, so if you want to contact me I will forward his details. I am yet to decide on the solution for the dampers, (too long) as I tested as suggested and they bottom out before the rubber damper is reached. But I think you'll agree a decent job on the repair. Thanks

Thanks Roger, Im contacting Spax as a side, just to clarify which length, (In their opinion), should the damper be. Thanks again jeff.

Hi All travelling back from Poole to the midlands through the new forest, it’s looking like a common problem, perhaps Spax need to know, ref length of dampe.

cheers Rich, yes they look great...... yes i'm just getting to grips with the forum, thank you for the advice....

Hi, I am looking for advice on a potential seat change in my TR4a, I currently use the original factory fitted however I am aware the MX5 seats are a more comfortable upgrade. I can see there are different designs depending on the MK of MX5. I would prefer not to use the type with the headset moulded into the seat as my personal view is they look a little high when in a TR. I have noticed there is a design with a lower overall height with a pillar type design. Two questions I guess, which is the best mark MX 5, and is there other options, I would prefer a bit of a bucket come wrap around, but