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Dan Middleton

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Posts posted by Dan Middleton

  1. I'm no expert, but this happened to me last summer after a long run on a warm sunny day. Several people suggested that the fuel pump overheated (Bosch pump in the boot space). 

    It happened a couple of times both on hot days and after sitting idling; once in traffic at a level crossing, and once in a car-park waiting for my OH.

    Now tend to avoid sitting with the engine idling in warm weather and it hasn't happened since.

  2. So, having bought my first ever "project" - a 1974 CR, I have had a tremendously enjoyable 8 months or so taking a tired rolling restoration car to the point where I have now got an MOT and 1700 miles under my belt.

    It has been a huge learning curve and I have benefitted enormously from the help and advice of many people that I have met through membership of the TR Register, as well as the few events that I have been able to attend and the frequent visits to the forum.

    As the first winter approaches, I have a few jobs planned, but I'm wondering if there is a point at which tweaking and tinkering becomes counter-productive. There are loads of mods and upgrades I could look at, but if I wouldn't contemplate fiddling with my normal daily drive.

    Interested to see what others think?

  3. I am approaching 500 miles in my first TR rolling project.

    I have a 1974 CR with just over 65k which appear to be genuine miles.

    She runs well, clutch isn't too heavy, doesn't pull left or right either rolling or under breaking. All gears engage cleanly with the exception of 2nd when changing down under braking - occasionally sticky to engage.

    I have noticed however, a slight whining noise which is present in all gears although it is less noticeable when O/D is engaged.

    I've check both front wheels and I am fairly confident it is not a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the centre-front of the car so I don't think it is the differential, but that's as far as I've managed to get.

    The gearbox was (according to the history file) removed and inspected in late 2016 and the clutch bearing carrier was replaced.

    Prior to that in 2015 the gearbox and O/D were overhauled by a Triumph specialist and various parts replaced.

    As far as I can tell it has only completed around 4k miles since that work was carried out.

    Any ideas would be welcome.

    Dan

  4. I used Renovo to clean and waterproof my vinyl hood recently. Both products are designed for the job and worked a treat on mine. They also do a cleaner for the clear plasti-glass which I haven't tried yet.

  5. On 4/23/2022 at 5:55 PM, stevenphillips said:

    Afternoon all

    So after searching the forum page after page for the correct information I've decided to create a topic that i'm hoping one of you chaps can answer... please.

    About 12 years ago I was stupid enough to park my TR into a lamppost and the post came out better. At the time I had a spoiler fitted which was trashed together with the chassis and front end. Anyway I took it to a local TR specialist ( who I will not be naming or recommending here as I know other have used them and am sure they had better result than me) they changed the chassis, front end etc and after two long years, loads of disappointed visits to see her still in bits or no further forward I finally got her back minus the spoiler and numerous other things that I have slowly put correct. The spoiler was not replaced and for the last 10 years I've been searching for a genuine as new never fitted spoiler. I now am in possession of the correct spoiler but I have no holes in the new valance and no reference point to guide me.

    Does anyone know the correct measurements for the 5holes I need to drill. Whilst it is fairly obvious where it goes the exact position is +/- 10mm or about 3/8 old money. I would like to position it correctly, so does anyone have this information that they can share. 

    Note when I offer it up there are substantial gaps dependant on spoiler position but I'm hoping they will pull together when I have the correct holes drilled and SS bolts, washers, and nylocks fitted.

    Thanks for all your help chaps

    Love and stuff

    Steve

    Steve,

    Did you establish the hole placement and get it fitted? If not, my 1974 has the holes where the spoiler used to be, but no spoiler (missing when I bought it!)

    Happy to send pictures with measurements if you still need them although I can't be 100% sure that the holes I have were for an original spoiler.

    Dan

  6. 7 hours ago, super6al said:

    Bruce is correct it should be 2 Thou but if its still at 1500 rpm at >2 thou theres a leak elsewhere (assuming the throttle cable & choke cam are working correctly). My suggestion earlier to adjust the butterflies closed & wind in the bleed valve should cause the engine to stall/almost stall if there are no other leaks.

    Alan

    I think an air leak elsewhere is the most likely although I will check the throttle cable. The choke cam is OK, but the bleed valve is closed and engine is still running too fast. I am planning to remove the throttle bodies tomorrow and give them all a thorough check for wear on all the moving parts etc.

  7. 8 hours ago, astontr6 said:

     

    Yes +1, 

    Bruce.

    Thanks for the recommendation. I've re-checked the connectors and the butterflies as suggested. On 1 & 2 there was a gap of a couple of mm which I have now adjusted to 0.002 mm as suggested. This has made a slight difference bringing the idle down to around 1500 rpm, but i can't get it any lower and while it is idling, every 3-5 seconds the revs increase to 2000 rpm and then drop back to 1500...it is as if I am blipping the throttle pedal even though I'm not touching anything.

    A flow meter might be the next step.

  8. 6 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

    Certainly worth closing them up to almost shut, on a CR you should be able to push a thin feeler gauge through, forget the exact size but it'll be a quick Google away to find out. CP version you fully close them, not sure which you have because you said 1974 CP, but CR was from 1973 on. 

    Anyways for sure an air leak past the butterfly's will cause it to rev a little more at idle, so setting them up correctly and in balance will help no end. 

    Gareth

    Yes, I meant CR! Thanks for the info...I will Google it.

  9. 1 hour ago, Mike C said:

    If you have a vacuum gauge plug it into the brake booster connection and see what vacuum you have at idle. I have to have something like 10 inches of mercury for my PI system to work properly. Much less and you have a leak somewhere.

    I don't have a vacuum gauge unfortunately. I'll re-check the gasket and see if that makes any difference, but since it was a blown gasket that lead me to this point, I think an air leak is more likely.

  10. I've spent the past couple of weeks making a start on my maiden TR 6 project...a 1974 CP PI

    Having replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets, water pump, thermostat and new radiator, I have reinstalled the inlet manifolds and air intake plenum etc. Prior to undertaking these jobs, the car started first time every time, but after reinstalling it took a fair few attempts to get the engine to fire up. Once it did eventually start, without the need of the cold-start lever, the engine is running far too high 2-2500 revs and it is smoking from below the manifolds.

    I'm concerned that maybe I haven't achieved a decent seal on the gasket between the manifold and the exhaust pipes - which may account for the smoke, but that wouldn't explain the high revving? I have also noticed that a small amount of fuel is leaking from the top of at least one of the injectors where it joins the fuel pipe from the metering unit. I have disconnected the injectors cleaned and checked the threads and re-joined the fuel lines, but still getting a dribble of petrol.

    Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong?

     

  11. Thanks all for the helpful advice and offers of help and support.

    Having taken on board the advice and spoken to several existing owners I changed tack slightly and have just bought my first TR6 which is due to arrive next week.

    It is a running example, with a solid chassis and body panels that are in a generally good condition. The car has been inspected by TRGB and although it needs a good overhaul to get through an MOT, I'm looking forward to getting started.

    Wish me luck!

    Dan

  12. Hi all.

    Probably the best step I've taken so far had been to join the TR register which has already opened the door to all this great advice and experience.

    I was very grateful recently to be invited to visit a longer standing member and owner who gave me an opportunity to ask lots of questions and even have a ride in his own 6.

    I'm still enthusiastic about one day owning one of these great cars, but I now have a far better appreciation of the undertaking in terms of both cost and time and think that a better start point is almost certainly a running car that I can enjoy and learn about with room for updating and improving. 

    I'm thinking something around the 15k mark could be more realistic and I'm not rushing into it. 

    If anyone knows of a car that might fit the bill I'd be keen to hear from you.

    Will keep you posted.

    Dan

  13. Hi Chris,

    Thanks for the message. I've also heard from Wayne in Spalding and I have family connections over there.

    I'm not sure of the etiquette of local groups. Being across the border in Cambridgeshire I was directed to the Cambs group, but Spalding would be more convenient for me.

    If you don't mind an interloper from across the border, can you let me know when and where the next meeting is planned and I will try to get over.

    Dan

  14. Thanks Charlie,

    Two things that everybody has told me: it will take longer and it will cost more!

    Fortunately, I have plenty of spare time...unfortunately I don't have lots of spare cash!

    You are correct about tools - I don't even own a socket set just now, but hopefully part of the pleasure if this project will be building up a collection of stuff alongside the skills and knowledge to use them?

    I don't underestimate the undertaking, but it is quite daunting at the moment, so I will take a look at your recommended reading in the hope that it will inspire as opposed to deter me.

    Dan

  15. Hi Mick,

    That would be ideal, but I've looked on the club classifieds and there is nothing within my budget.

    I'm looking for something for under 10k and that seems a big ask.

    Would I be best to post on the TR 6 forum or wider? What would you suggest?

    Dan

  16. I have just joined the club and I've been in touch with my local section.

    I have a double garage which I'm in the process of tidying to make space!

    I've actually found a potential project but it is in Lancashire - about 2 hours away.

    I've spoken to the dealer who sounds OK, but the car doesn't appear to have any documented history other than original log book. I'm quite keen to do the work...in fact that is the main appeal...I'm just nervous about buying the wrong thing.

    I will try the local group to see if anyone is willing to accompany me.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Dan

  17. Hello all,

    I am looking for a TR 6 for what will be my first restoration project. It is something I have always wanted to do and, having recently retired, I now have the time to devote to such a project.

    That's the plus part! The minus is that I have absolutely no prior experience or automotive skills to call upon. Having spent weeks researching, talking to people and watching TV restoration shows, YouTube clips etc. I'm beginning to wonder if I am being too ambitious, but part of the appeal is to learn new skills as well as owning and driving a car that I have previously only been able to admire from a distance.

    I have started looking for a car to get started, but I am concerned that despite looking at the buyer's guides etc. I really don't know what I'm looking for and could easily end up buying a pile of scrap if left to my own devices!

    I've seen a couple advertised within my budget, but the dealer is a good 2 hour drive away and I can't find much about the company online.

    Any help or advice would be very much appreciate.

    Thanks 

    Dan

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