Jump to content

Red6

Registered User
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Just found this picture from an old eBay listing. Might be an original factory tool but unfortunately no longer available. I have now also discovered an older forum post that did not crop up in my original search, should have tried harder: Thanks for all your help guys.
  2. I have a pair of right angle circlip pliers that does the same job. But in my old age I have decided to strive for perfection and only use the correct tools for the job. It is not going well.
  3. It looks like the choke cable bezel on my '75 TR6 is different to one on the 4A. On TR6 the choke cable bezel looks like the ones on the 4A interior light and washer switch in your link. I am of course assuming that it has the correct bezel, but this does seem to correspond to the diagram I saw on the Rimmer Bros site.
  4. Thanks for the reply Kev. There are two different types of bezel. One type has two slots in the front face and I think the tools in the link fit those. The second type has 6 cutouts around the edge of the bezel and that is the one I have.
  5. Over the last 50 years I have owned and maintained a number of Triumph cars. Many of them, including my current TR6, have used threaded chrome bezels to secure choke cables, heater cables and other switches on the dashboard. I have used various methods for tightening the stupid things, some with limited success and a loss of chrome. So the question is was there ever a proper tool for doing them up and is such a thing still available? Thought I might treat myself for my 68th birthday
  6. Very neat job but why such high current fuses? Two of those circuits should be pulling no more than 7-9 amps when running and even allowing for a peak in current on start up the fuses seem over-rated. The horn might be a bit higher depending on the set up, but even then I personally would not have gone above 20/25 amps. But more importantly you have fitted one fuses upside down and from a purely OCD point of view that would really wind me up
  7. Have black stripes on my current pimento 6 and previously had red stripes on my white 6. Both looked good IMHO. But in both cases the stripes were just above the panel swage lines rather than below.
  8. Many of us have faced our "first restoration project" and while it can be a steep learning curve these are very simple cars by modern standards and parts are readily available. For an amateur the most challenging task is welding but you can probably find a local college course if you are intent on doing that yourself. It is not difficult if you have the right equipment. What you do need is plenty of room. Once you start to take a car apart it is amazing how much space the parts takes up. Get a copy of the workshop manual and take lots of photographs so you know how everything goes back togethe
  9. Red6

    Fuse list.

    It was a little while back but I think I just removed the centre console, glove box and a couple of gauges for access. A bit fiddly but not too challenging.
  10. Red6

    Fuse list.

    It was the heater motor on mine, fitted a new motor and all good since.
  11. Red6

    Fuse list.

    Heater motor had shorted out on mine and kept blowing the same fuse. It is a ridiculous set up with too few fuses and I fitted a modern fuse holder with 6 blade fuses. Then able to separate the circuits and fit more appropriate sized fuses.
  12. I sell it to owners of leaky spin on oil filter adaptors
  13. I change the oil and filter myself every 1,000 miles or so and tend not to worry about spending 15 seconds getting the sealing ring out. The oil is never that dirty and is only really changed because it is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time. At least I am not pouring gallons of oil on my garage floor like some, but each to their own
  14. Original set up on mine, 47 years and still working. Reading this thread I am thinking that some people have wasted their money just to get a worse set up.
  15. Get the boot nice and warm with a hairdryer or hot air gun, put plenty of lubricant (silicone grease or petroleum jelly) on the mating parts of the boot and ease it in from the front towards the back. You might need a little bit of gentle prodding with the flat blade of a screwdriver to correctly locate the last bit of the lip. It is actually quite easy if you take your time.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.