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Les Millington

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  • Location
    Isle of Skye
  • Cars Owned:
    The interesting ones were Imp, Midget and Saab 96 (well modified). Currently Volvo V40 (190hp reasonably brisk), TR4A that I've wanted since before all the rest.

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  1. Just been out braving a hoard of midges to check thisThe connectors on the wiper motor itself are male spades with fixed female spades on the wires. The top terminal goes to earth nearby and it quite rusty so could that be the self park fault? Terminal 1 is red, 2 is green, but bear in mind the car has had a substantial rewire by the PO. There is a red wire across the the body of the driving part of the wiper mechanism.
  2. Intriguing thread. I've now found out that I have a Herald wiper motor in my 1966 TR4A! DR3A 75446D. Only seems to have single speed, quite quick, with no self park. Probably the original 3 position pull switch on the dash for a 2 speed motor.
  3. Everyone, my apologies, I've just realised that the parts I was looking at I've wrongly described. The lower grease nipple is on the side of bottom end of the vertical link, just above the trunnion. So sorry about that. Off to go and sit in dark room until tea time. Les
  4. There are 2 grease nipples on each side of the car. One on top of the upper ball joint and another on the side of the bottom trunnion assembly. Both the same size requiring a 5/16" AF spanner to remove them. All smaller than supplied by TR Revington which are 3/8"AF. (please note I'm not knocking the supplier) Les
  5. Good morning Charlie I was driving a Hillman Imp about 50 years ago when I came to a 90 left bend and turned left as you do, the wheel refused to come back after the bend resulting in a 180 left into a field. Drove back out without a scratch, that was something in the front suspension seized, so yes I take your words (and Stuart's) on board. My lower trunnions do have the side nipples not bottom ones, adding to my confusion as to what is correct. I'm using a LM grease. When I greased the left side a black oil came oozing out of the bottom, but there seems to be only grease in the right side.
  6. Roger, Stuart, many thanks for your interest and replies. The core plug idea sounds good, and cheap, failing that a penny washer soldered on, with a grease nipple fixed in the hole! Thanks Les
  7. Excellent stuff as per usual. The same job that I am planning for the winter, but I hadn't considered moving the indicator lamp to the new position. I will now, thank you for sharing. Les
  8. Recently been attempting to grease the front suspension of my TR4A, not something I've done before, and I found that a couple of the nipples were not keen to take the grease. As I was ordering some other bits from TR Revington I added new nipples onto the list. Came to fit them, wrong size, slightly bigger than the originals, they need a 3/8" AF spanner where the originals are more like 5/16" AF. Ok not a problem take off and clean the nipples make them work. Came to the right side lower trunnion and found that the cap on the bottom of the trunnion was missing. It was there 2 weeks ago but cou
  9. Didn't have the camera for the run out to Stein on Saturday to pick up freshly landed Langoustines for dinner but managed this from the Sunday spin out. Waterstein Head and Moonen Bay from Neist Point. Only half a dozen cars there yesterday, will be rammed in the summer.
  10. Thanks Stuart and Pete. Looking at some other posts the seals and pistons seem to be a bit of a pain to replace so I'm thinking maybe complete calipers might be best for my capabilities.
  11. Current visibility in North-west Skye - 600 metres. Should improve for Wednesday.
  12. Thanks Sue, didn't know about the water but certainly intended to bleed anyway having done the rears. I'm using DOT4, is that ok?
  13. You're absolutely right, no reason at all, just my suspicious nature I suppose. I'll go down that direction, would stainless pistons be more reliable?
  14. That's what I'm thinking but is there any reason why both should be the same?
  15. Having repaired the rears I've now turned my attention to the front brakes in a bid to improve performance. The car pulls up without deviation, just not very well. Looking at both discs from the wheel side they seem fairly normal, shiny, used. Peering through the inspection holes on the backplates all I can see is rust covering both disc surfaces, not used. All the brake components were replaced by the PO about 5,000 miles/4 years ago. The pads look reasonably thick and are all a little bit loose in the carriers. Can anyone point me in the direction of why both discs should have the same probl
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