Greg
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Posts posted by Greg
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Hi,
on this subject, can anyone tell me the overall length of the studs that the thumb screws screw into? On mine, the previous owner welded nuts to the bar and then tried to round them off, leaving really thin walls and the screws do not bite well.
Greg
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On 7/20/2022 at 11:25 PM, Greg said:
Hi all,
does anyone have an early TR4 dash support bracket or a drawing of one that can be used to manufacture one. My car had a home made wood one to support a radio. I won’t be fitting a radio, but it is useful for additional switches.
thank you
Greg
Hi all,
thank you all, I am now sorted with this part.
Forum has proven very helpful, yet again.
Greg
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On 7/21/2022 at 6:44 AM, openroad said:
Morning Greg, if you mean the the fascia to floor support bracket, I have one .
I can package and post, or take to the international at Stafford.
Conrad.
Hi Conrad,
ive checked my post and read your response again. I’m sure that I had responded to you. If not, please accept my apology.
the part you have is not the part I require. However, I am now sorted.
Greg
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Hi all,
does anyone have an early TR4 dash support bracket or a drawing of one that can be used to manufacture one. My car had a home made wood one to support a radio. I won’t be fitting a radio, but it is useful for additional switches.
thank you
Greg
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On 5/14/2022 at 7:03 PM, Drewmotty said:
165/15 is a full profile tyre as is 165/80/15 they should have the same rolling radius.
I’ve got it all fitted and it’s perfect. I was worried about the fit in the ‘well.
sorry about late response. I don’t seem to get notices when replies come in.
Greg
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On 5/14/2022 at 6:37 PM, harlequin said:
Greg are you sure that a 165-80-R15 is not suitable for you existing spare wheel? I have them on my TR3 and the spare is only a 4 or maybe 4 1/2 J.
Have you tried fitting you spare to the car? Often the nuts for alloy wheels are not suitable for steel wheels, you may need to carry standard nuts for the spare.
George
Hi George,
my apologies for getting back to you late.
I have it all sorted now, shot blasted wheel and sprayed. New tyre fitted. Well chuffed.
Greg
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2 hours ago, rcreweread said:
Greg - don't forget you will need to rig up a power supply for it - I found the easiest way was to buy an adapter with a cigarette lighter socket one end and a cable with crocodile clips the other to go straight on the battery terminals - in time you can then install a permanent feed somewhere as so much modern electronic stuff needs them ie Sat Nav, phone etc
Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384817920496?hash=item5998ef79f0:g:GNoAAOSwLytiTF8j
cheers Rich
Hi Rich,
thank you for the advice and link. I am fortunate, when I had a new harness installed, I had an accessory power source and USB ports installed. I got the idea from a show where a TR5 had them installed where the ashtray fits. Mine are in the space where a radio would fit. First class modern equipment. haha
Greg
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Hi D,
its been decided that I will keep the spare wheel with a new tyre. The original tyre was dated 1992! The wheel is currently being shot blasted and it’s being resprayed. Roger has suggested I get an electric scissor jack, so that’s what I’m looking for now, so n my any to choose from.
Greg
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Just now, RogerH said:
Hi Greg ,
it will not fit under the spare wheel - I've tried.
However it does fit nicely on the left hand side of the boot next to the inner wing.
Roger
Hi Roger,
is the one you have in a case? That could well help a lot with storage.
Greg
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Hi Greg,
if you are considering a scissor jack then consider an 'Electric' scissor jack
Dark, wet, windy night on the kerb of a busy road and it will pay for itself in one use.
Also an ideal third hand when raising/lowering the Gearbox during a lcutch change.
Roger
Thanks Roger, I’ll look into them I’d like something that may possible fit inside the underside of the spare wheel ideally. Space being at a premium.
Greg
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17 minutes ago, lynchpin said:
Mine came with the original jack which as you say fits through the hole in the floor and hooks onto the chassis, did try it once just because I could and it worked fine lifted both wheels off the ground, thats on the shelf in the garage and I carry a small scissor jack and block of wood which fits under the chassis and will lift one wheel at a time, only had to use it once in 15yrs..use a trolley jack at home..
Phil..
I bet that is a nice museum piece Phil. I didn’t think of a block, I cut one for the jack I have. I did toy with the idea of a bottle jack. Like you, I use a trolley jack in the garage or the hydraulic ramps I have.
Greg
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1 hour ago, lynchpin said:
If the spare is slightly smaller it would be no different to the space saving spare that was a standard fitting on lots of cars, my 89 Golf Cabriolet has one, you are limited on speed and I think it should be put on the back..
Phil..
Thanks Phil, I’m sure now that I can fit the 165/80/15 on the steel rim, so that’s the plan going forward. Next thing is what jacking point to use. The original was through the floor, but who has that equipment now. The car came with a scissor jack but no indication of a hacking point.
Greg
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2 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
In the advent of a accident the spare will cushion the impact somewhat. After seeing a heavy rear ended TR6 I will always have a spare much that it grieves me to carry around that weight.
Regards Harry
I Hi Harry,
tgat is a very good and sobering thought. As I’ve said to Bob, I shall have the wheel cleaned and fit the 165/80/15 tyre.
Greg
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10 hours ago, Lebro said:
They are the same size, & fit well on 4" (TR2-4A) 4½" (TR5) & 5½" (TR6) wheels
Bob
Hi Bob,
thank you. I will arrange for the wheel to be cleaned and painted then get the 165/80/15 tyre fitted.
as usual, you have all been very helpful.
Greg
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3 minutes ago, trchris said:
They are both the same tyres the tyre fitter should know this if he knows his job?? I would also never travel with out a spare in the 4a
Chris
Thanks Chris, I will get the wheel cleaned up, then get a tyre fitted.
be good to have this sorted.
Greg
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12 minutes ago, harlequin said:
Agreed
Thanks for the help guys.
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19 minutes ago, harlequin said:
Having spent many years in Scandinavia where garages are often a very long way appart I would never go without a spare.
I am sure the inflator kits are fine for a flat caused by a nail but a split tyre is another story, and Odds Law will definitely dictate that a ripped tyre is exactly what you will have within a month or two of leaving the spare in the garage.
George
Harlequin,
I do have roadside assistance with recovery if needed, but I don’t like to call in that if I can help it.
I agree with you though, as soon as I go out without a spare I will get a flat that can’t be fixed.
mid rather get a second hand wheel that can take the 165/80/15 tyre. I may come across as tight, but I have spent so much money on this car, I’m at the point where I would like to save a bit.
Greg
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39 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:
165/15 is the same as 165/80/16. No problem there other than perhaps the age of the spare.
If you want a slightly wider wheel to match your Minator wheel a standard 5.5” TR6 wheel will do the job.Hi Drewmotty,
was there a typo, I have 165/15 on the car is 165/80/15. Would the 165x15 work ok as a spare with the 165x80x15? I asked a tyre fitter and he reckoned it would be uneven due to the low profile.
Greg -
Hi all,
I am in a quandary, to have a spare wheel or not. Currently, my road tyres are on minator alloy wheels fitted with 165/80/15 tyres. Happy with this (these were on the car when I bought it). Unfortunately, the spare is on an original steel wheel fitted with a 165/15 tyre. Now, I am sure that this combination is s no no and a 165/80/15 tyre will not fit this rim. I am unable to locate a steel rim to take the right tyre, so it would be another minator wheel and new tyre. A tad expensive, but necessary if I go that root. I spoke to a friend who asked me when was the last time I had a puncture - a very long time ago. So, would it be worth just getting one of the inflation kits and enjoy the extra space. What are your thoughts and what gave you done? I appreciate that there may be a space saver that will fit, but would that affect the insurance?
Greg
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Haha, well said Bob.
I think I Will pass on that.
thank you again for looking out for the CD, I really do appreciate it.
Greg
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Hi Bob,
I have the CD now, Chris Hale had a spare copy and he lives a few miles away, so I collected it.
thank you very much for offering to post them both to me. Is the DVD good for newish members?
thank you, Greg
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Hi Rich,
thank you for the advice and help. Last night I nipped it up and that seemed to work a treat for now. I’ll look to getting a new olive and feed pipe.
thank you
Geeg
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On 4/16/2013 at 11:39 AM, ChrisR-4A said:
Hi Ron, sometimes even a new olive can fail to seal if the seat in the pump has previously been damaged. Having tried various bodges when mine leaked whilst on holiday including plumbers tape all of which did not cure the leak completely I fixed it for good as follows. I obtained two shouldered adapters, parallel thread with connectors for rubber hose at other end. These were screwed into the pump inlet and outlet using dowty washers to seal.
For those who are not familiar with these they are alloy washers with a silicon/ nitride seal bonded to the centre. They can be used more than once, need no additional sealant and will work as long as the two mating flanges are reasonably flat. Been dry as a bone for over 3 years since fitting these.
Hi Chris,
I have a leak at the fuel pump, from the feed to the carbs and came across your response to this problem. It’s a while ago now, but are you able to say where you obtained the adaptors and washers?
a friend builds electric fuel pumps, but I’m reluctant to go that route as it’s something else to tuck away in the engine bay.
thanks
Greg
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Thanks Mick. I will give that a go. Meanwhile, I will be collecting a spare off of a local chap and someone is loaning their original too. So, as far as my request, I’m all sorted. But thanks again for your help.
Greg
Old Plates now completed
in General TR Technical
Posted
They look really good. I’m interested in how you mounted the rear plate to the boot lid. I’m assuming they are the riveted type. When my boot lid was repaired (brew bottom part) the number plate was fixed using double sided stickies. I’d like plates like these, but don’t want the riveted backs to damage the paint.
greg