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pauljh

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  1. Thanks for that, I thought so re the voltage at the battery. Maybe I’ll start it up tomorrow and if I can gets some revs up before she stalls I’ll check If the charge at the battery falls.
  2. Hi I’m now thinking this might be an alternator issue. Car started today after allowing excess fuel to evaporate. Idled for a while then began to stall, finally stalling completely. I noticed that the AMP gauge needle was to the far left C+ when it was running, I don’t think this is normal. The battery was showing 12.7v when it was running, should this not be higher if the alternator is working properly? Apologies for the basic explanations but I’m still learning (the hard way).
  3. Coil is wired correctly and as you describe. The same as when it was running normally.
  4. Thanks for the tip, checked this again. The choke lever is fully returned. From what I can see this lever pushes a 2nd lever with a small adjustable nut and bolt. This second lever was as far as it would go towards the back of the car and firmly against the bottom of the choke lever. WD40’d everything but it didn’t appear stuck on. Cleaned the plugs, cranked it, almost fired up, checked the plugs, wet with fuel.
  5. ...removed a plug and getting a good spark although engine is cold as it won’t start.
  6. Thanks for all your replies on this. I’ve checked fuel pump, is getting 12v, cleaned connectors and seems to be working OK. Tried to fire it up this morning, wanted to to start then nothing. Checked the plugs, soaking wet. Ignition parts have all been replaced, plugs, points, coil, cap, condenser, red rotor arm. HT leads new last year. Was on the button when I replaced these parts yesterday and idled nicely until it got hot and I flicked the throttle. Not sure why it won’t start now but I think I’m moving beyond my skill set!
  7. John thanks for your suggestions, I’ll check the fuel pump is working at temperature first before I move to the idle air valve. Beyond that I’m probably moving out of my comfort zone!!
  8. Andy, thanks for this. Engine was running fine prior to fault so developed suddenly. First time it happened I had black smoke from the exhaust but since changing electrics this hasn’t happened again. Only job I did on the same day it first happened was remove gear stick to fix rattle in 3rd, it was when I went to test drive It that this fault occurred, didn’t think it could be related. I can rev whilst its warming then splutters and dies as soon as it reaches temperature. The possible issue with fuel pump makes sense and I will do the checks you suggest. I don’t know PSI at MU but I’ll a
  9. Thanks Jim, I did check that and the lever appears to be in the fully returned position.
  10. Hi folks I’m new to this forum and I’m hoping someone can help me with an issue I have with my 6. I have basic mechanic abilities, Ie. engine service, brakes etc but I’m learning. I have a 71 PI. Car starts from cold, ticks over nicely then begins to stall when reaches temperature and cuts out completely when hot. I’ve replaced plugs, points, condenser, rotor, coil & fuel filter. Problem persists, runs well until it gets hot then starts stalling before cutting out completely. Choke seems to be functioning normally. When it’s running I can feel fuel pumping to the MU and to the in
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