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Colin Symonds

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Posts posted by Colin Symonds

  1. I recently bought an 800psi 24V one for my archery club, which is based in woodlands near Worcester.  We do have a generator and water tap in our compound but really only need a pressure washer to occasionally clean our quad bike and wash the algae off of our 3D targets, which are set our in the woods.  The one we bought was only £65 from Amazon and came with a couple of 2000mAh 24V batteries.  We can take it around our course in the quad's basket with a container of water which we couldn't do with a mains washer.  It also has the ability to pick up water from any source so we can use the ponds in the wood as a water source if needed.

    These type of jet washers are really designed for cleaning mountain bikes etc and they won't blast the grime off of your patio or drive but ours does clean the thick wet mud off of our quad, and believe me we've had a lot of mud recently!  

  2. 2 hours ago, Tiger123 said:

    So just had a what's app call with the restorers why are the bloody obvious things not obvious? It won't fit as the the car has a TR6 crash pad instead of the TR4A crash pad with the grab handle which would accommodate the lip in the void of the grab handle

    A few phone calls and I find that RHD TR4A grab handles are as rare as hens teeth have emailed and contacted suppliers even a used one and recovered would work

    My options are

    1. By a third party grab handle will need modifications to fit (Spoke to Steve at TRGB who confirmed this would the case)

    2. Have the old dashboard reveneered as lip has been taken off (any recommendations in Somerset area)

    3. The least palatable option cut the lip off the new dashboard and run the risk of chipping the veneer

     

     

    I spent many years building high end acoustic guitars and having to make very accurate cuts in exceptionally expensive thin woods.  The secret of a clean cut is to use a marking knife to define the cut line, not a pencil.  Clamp a steel straight edge on to the wood where you want the cut to be and score through the veneer with a very sharp knife.  When you make the final saw cut do so on the waste side of the score line then clean up with sandpaper on a block.  

  3. When I bought my 4a I had a similar problem.  When TRGB were doing my engine rebuild I had them look at it for me and yes, I had a TR6 window in the drivers side.  They replaced my drivers door window with a 4a one and I now have perfect fitting windows in my Surrey top.  When i checked back in all of the paperwork the drivers window had been replaced some years earlier.

  4. Went to pick up my 4a from Simon at Worcester Classic Cars this morning, he had fitted a new top cover and gear selector rebuilt by Peter Cox, who is just down the road from here.

    Set off home and about five miles in the engine ground to a halt.  The SU electric fuel pump had given up the ghost, quick call to Simon and he came out with the trailer and we went back to his works.  So taxi home and wait for a new pump to be fitted.  

    On the plus side, the new selector mechanism is superb!

  5. 15 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

    Thanks for that Ian, 

    I’ve spoken to a non franchise BMW garage that I use in Worksop today. They didn’t even know about a 5 sided tool, they just use a very small traditional Allen key or torx to successfully remove them. 
    A similar tale from a BMW dismantler in Sheffield today also. 
    I’ll give that a go tomorrow with my fingers crossed. 
    Dave

    Yes I just use a torx of similar size to remove them on my Z3M.

  6. I have the Moss seats as well, trimmed in black leather with white piping, I find them extremely comfortable, enough support without feeling imprisoned.  Mine are about 15 years old now and suit the car perfectly.

  7. 10 minutes ago, MichaelH said:

    A Triumph engine oil tight! I doubt it somehow

    Michael

    Oh they do exist, since my TRGB engine rebuild you can park my TR4a on a white carpet without worrying, well the tyres might make a bit of a mess.

  8. Thanks for all of your views, seems like I'm spoilt for choice, but Manista just seems to take a small majority.  Do anyone know if the 'polybeads' in it are plastic or perlite?

    My father spent decades washing car parts in his paraffin bowl, parts cleaners were not available then, he ended up with skin like a rhino on his hands.  At the end of the working day, he would clean his hands with the old green Swafega, then rub in glycerine, still in the winter his knuckles would split and he had to rub in lanolin and wear cotton gloves when he went to bed.   

  9. I know I should always use my nitrile gloves, but you know what is is, sometimes you just open the bonnet to look at something and before you know it you have done a complete engine rebuild (OK, slight exaggeration)  and your hands are covered in grime.  I have always used Swarfega, following my father's use of it running his Automobile Electrician* business from the 50s until he retired, it is one of the things I associate with him.  I'm just getting to the end of my jar and wondered if anyone has a preferred product.  I'm loathe to change for sentimental reasons but if there is a superior hand cleaner out there who am I to be a luddite.  

    *My Grandfather started the business in 1912 as the first car electrical business in the UK, initially to convert the London taxi fleet from acetylene to electric lighting.  

  10. Just measured my CHT top and the elastic, unstretched,  measures 85mm from the centre of the rivet to the inside end of the 'hook', 55mm rivet to rivet.  You should be able to get the all of the measurements from the picture

    Colin

     

    Surrey top elastic.jpg

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