Martin50

Rich, can you access the YouTube link below? This shows removing the drive shafts to allow the trailing arms to be taken off for new bushes. It is a task I have on my to do list but will do next year. Hope this helps.

I was in my early 40’s when I brought the TR6 in 2007. I had an old MG midget in the 90’s and then traded it for a Jag. I’ve always loved old cars but with marriage and settling down had a spell without one but missed having an old “classic”. Spent a year or so looking at various cars, and thinking what to get - good fun looking. Settled on the 6 really for the engine, its power and the injection. I think all the TR’s look great. The sound of the 6 is perfect even if just plodding along some country back roads. I’ve been lucky with the car I got, its been incredibly reliable with trips to Fran

I’ve thought several times about putting this on here, but here goes… I think the Heat Capacity of water is approx 4.2 kJ per kg per deg C, but ethylene glycol is about 2.4 kJ per kg per deg C. The engine is the source of heat (the kJ producer), and assuming the pump flow is the same for water as glycol (roughly will be) then water will take away from the engine 4.2 kJ verses glycol taking away 2.4 kJ per one deg Celsius rise in temperature. Very similarly the radiator is a fixed surface area and the air temperature it cools with is the same with either fluid, so with one deg C

Bill, I’ve sent you a PM. Maybe able to help.

Steve, I’ve done this couple of years ago now. I did use the old pipe as a guide / template. With the pipe off the car started with the MC end and did what Andy said and taped the pipes together as I bent it to stop them twisting. Did most of it by eye and only used pipe bender for tight or 90 deg bends. It’s very easy to put small bends in what should be straight and then very hard to get back to straight. The new pipe I purchased was slightly longer than the old when I got to the end, but the flexible end to the slave took up the difference. If I had done this a few times I could have g

Steve, I changed out a master clutch cylinder a while back. I found it easier to drain the fluid down thru the slave cylinder. I wasn’t sure how old the fluid was so it made sense to me to replace all the fluid and discard the old. I think even with just draining MC you will still need to bleed thru the whole system. I also put a lot of cloths / sheeting around the master and the pipe connection to avoid getting fluid on paint. Mostly successful. Other than that I think your steps match what I recall doing. With the new master, it is worth wetting the internals before installing, ev

Steve, I’m pretty sure there should be. I had very similar experience when I had just got my TR6. When I drove for a while the engine would splutter and even stop. It did sound like a fuel problem, but I was lucky as I opened the filler cap with intent to check level. But there was a whoosh / vapour escaping sound as I opened the cap. I ran a couple of times with same experience and sound but I realised it was a vacuum and not a release. I should have asked this forum before I did this but I made a cut hole in the cap seal. The issue never came back and I’m pretty sure there should be a vent h

Missed this one.

Does this help?

A question partly related to this. When I start my CP car with full choke from cold, it does rev up to 1,500 rpm or possibly higher but around there. The oil light goes out after 1 or 2 seconds which I think is due to the spin on oil filter conversion. Oil pressure is good. The question : Is 1,500 + rpm for cold start coke too much? I have the twin cable choke fitted as original. A couple of years ago now I did go thru the whole throttle system and set it up. I spoke with Martin at Fredmillturn who was very helpful as was considering to buy / change to his throttle set up. But after speak

Tim, is it part numbers 600399 and ADA803? The diagram is confusing to me but looks like the plug and grommet?